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Transmission and engine rebuilds are always going to be subject to inspection of the core parts. If the transmission case is junk, then you are looking at a replacement, most likely a remanufactured unit. I’d doubt there is much demand for brand new off the shelf 700R4s, though I could be mistaken. The 4L60 replaced the 700R4.
If you are thinking of doing some supercharging in the future, and plan to keep this truck for life, then you’d want to look at a performance rebuilders crate motor. You could start by looking at Summit racing, though there are a lot of really good engine builders out there that aren’t the name brands you might be familiar with.
These guys offer a 30 month, 50k warranty for exampleIt’s seems to me that Ford/Merc TPS numbers are always up higher than I would think, though you might have a TPS that has a bad return on it, you might want to watch how fast the TPS numbers fall from WOT, which of course you can watch with the Key On Engine OFF ( KOEO ) See if it’s hitting 100% at WOT, and then modulate the throttle to see how the numbers react in real time. I’ve heard that the return spring can get janky on Ford TPS’s.
Yeah, they’ll give anyone a license to drive here…all you need is a vehicle in good working order to take the test. It lasts 30 minutes and has nothing to do with the car itself. If you can parallel park, you pretty much pass. I remember getting my license in Germany while stationed there…thought it was bad just having to take a 100 point test, until I found out how hard it was for the nationals to get their license…I had my own car at 15 and my 2nd by 16 (at the same time ).
FT is high throughout the rpm range, removing the maf had little to change it, but it was improved. If I had access to another maf, I’d try swapping and see if there were a difference. Fuel pressure was good by the last time I checked it.
You could very well have a plugged catalytic converter. The noise under the car was what helped point me in that direction. A loss of power. and shaking means that the engine is suffocating…it can’t breathe out through the exhaust and the back pressure is causing the engine to choke itself out.
Sometimes you can take a piece of paper at the exhaust and see if it wants to get sucked into the exhaust as a test.
A bad cat is usually the cause of excess fuel getting into it from a rich condition in the motor from flooding the motor with fuel due to hard starts.
Has it been a hard starter for a while before this finally became the end result? Likely you will have 2 issue to deal with…the first being the cause of the caytalytic converter failure and then the replacement of the catalytic converter. Removing the O2 sensors from the exhaust and then trying to start the car is a way to see if the converter is plugged up to the point of causing your issue. If it runs considerably better, then the holes from the 02 sensors has freed up enough flow to allow the engine to breathe. You can’t leave it this way, but it is a free way to see if the converter is the issue.
Welcome! Just because you don’t own a car, doesn’t mean you shouldn’t understand at least the basics, because no matter where you go, you’ll eventually be in one…the train doesn’t go everywhere! My kids are just getting ready to start driving and the one thing I will stress to them ( beyond actually driving properly ) is to understand that a car isn’t just something you drive and put gas into. They will learn to check tire pressure and monitor fluid levels and understand what each is and does. They will be taught to understand why the check engine light turns on in a car and what to listen for. I want them to understand when something isn’t right, as well as when it is.
Hope you find all the info you want and discover more that you didn’t know you were looking for here. Enjoy your visit!
You should be able to buy a full ‘crate” motor from an engine rebuilder, and some auto parts stores can get it for you. It’s all going to depend on how much you love that truck and how much you want to spend on it.
A short block is the engine block without the heads or intake manifold. A long block is the engine block, and heads. If you are looking for parts compatibility, then it’s a matter of finding out what vehicles used the same engine and transmission in your truck. 1994 was pretty much the end of the TBI motors. The transmission is the 700R4, and that can be found in any large V8 powered GM, though you have to be careful on some differences, most notably if you have 4wd, you can’t use a transmission out of a 2wd vehicle.
In regards to rebuilding what you have, it’s a matter of finding a reputable builder near you. I found a guy on Craigslist that rebuilt my transmission and reinstalled it for under 1300 and he gave me a 3 year warranty, plus upgraded some internal parts. Been rock solid for me for the last 5 years. He was terrible to work with, but his work speaks for itself. Do a little research before jumping in if you aren’t well versed automotively speaking.
Engine rebuilders, you can spend big bucks and go with a Jasper remanufactured engine and transmission. They have a network of shops that will do your installs for you and back up their product very well..but you pay a little more for the peace of mind. Jasper Engine/transmission rebuilding website
I had a bad experience with an engine rebuilder…they rebuilt the engine fine, but the rear main seal started leaking shortly after the second round with them, and the second round with them was because the block was cracked on both sides and leaked coolant…. They took care of me with no extra charges, but took forever and my stereo system got stolen while in their possession the second time….sigh. Oh, and they installed a clamp wrong which took out my fan belt, which wrapped around my transmission cooler lines and left me stranded in a different state. So, no matter what, you will always want to double check the work of anything that happens this major….even the great transmission experience I had, they didn’t tighten up the rear transmission mounting bolts all the way.
Boy, I’m making this sound complicated…but it’s not…this kind of thing happens every day and we are all human.
The best tool you have in your arsenal is your brain, and access to information. Gather up as much as you can before making a decision on which direction to go.
As far as other things to consider when replacing the engine/transmission? I’d put in a new radiator and hoses for sure, and motor mounts…take care of any of those pesky things that are easy to replace now that the engine is out. Put new U joints in the driveshaft and maybe consider having the rear end gone through and get your end play figured out…at the very least, pull the differential cover of and replace the fluid..look at those spider gears and think about replacing them if they show any wear ( super easy to replace…just watch a video and pretty cheap in comparison to replacing a blown out rear end ).
I’d buy new ground straps as well, since bad grounds will have you hunting demons if it doesn’t fire up and run great. Also consider replacing the fuel pump if it’s an original ( and use a Delphi or GM brand…you’ll thank me later ).
Could be very possible that the leak was not just the gasket. You will want to fix this ASAP.
[video width=425 height=344 type=youtube]/00ZUtWPCMmM[/video]That is my old Grand Am after neglecting an intake leak. It had a misfire on cylinder #6 on occasion, and then one day it seized up. Coolant trickled down to the cam and seized the bearing, bending a pushrod, then the valve and sheared the cam in half. That is it running on about 3 cylinders.
You may have to pull that head off and have it inspected for a crack. There isn’t anything you can do that will 100% fix it. RTV would be a gamble. If you were inclined to try, make sure you clean the snot out of it with acetone and compressed air before you apply anything, and I’d use RTV designed for water pumps. However, it’s a risk you’d have to consider. At the very least, you would need to continue to monitor the engine coolant level.
Is it hard to turn no matter what direction you turn, or just one direction? It’s a hydraulic circuit, and if anything got into it and is blocking a path, it could cause issues. You might want to run the vehicle with the cap open and watch the fluid flow with someone turning the wheels.
To make it easier, put both sets of wheels on 2 pieces of cardboard. The cardboard will allow the tires to rotate freely without having to jack the front end up.
Generally, you want to bleed the system without running the engine. Turn the wheel lock to lock a couple of dozen times and then turn the engine on briefly to run the pump a little, then turn off and repeat. Then run the engine and operate the wheel and see how it feels/sounds.
[quote=”Summer_Night” post=121644][quote=”Sovek” post=121604]I’d make sure you dont have a vacuum leak somewhere. I know my Buick was like that when I changed out the upper intake manifold gasket and didnt tighten down the back bolts properly.[/quote]
Very much what the problem sounds like. I had this intake vacuum leak twice –
On a 94 grand prix – when cold, it would rev up, stall, rev, stall, etc until it reached operating temp.
On my 99 cougar – at first it ran a little rough at times but got to the point where it ran rough ALL the time.So for the OP – does engine temperature change anything? Intake leaks can cause some weird stuff and in your case, I would almost bet that if you cannot find any other leaks – start looking at the intake upper and lower gaskets. Both of your IAC are probably fine. If there is a vacuum leak, it is going to be working overtime trying to find a stable idle, a mere symptom instead of cause. Of course having to replace intake gaskets is the worst case in fixing a vacuum leak so exhaust all other options first.[/quote]
It’s doubly bad since it’s an intake gasket and it’s in an Astro. The fact that it’s a V8 makes no matter, it would be the same problem if it had the V6. I guess the only thing I can add is that when I take the oil cap off, the fuel trims definitely change for the worse, and putting Propane in through the oil fill hose stabilized the readings. I have video of it on my computer somewhere. I think the fact of the matter is, I have a lower intake gasket leak, which can’t be confirmed externally, I can only assume that it’s sucking out the crank case. I’ve done a water test, propane test, carb cleaner test all around the upper and lower intake and the base of the throttle body.
I don’t want to do an intake, but I’m getting to the point that I’m out of other viable reasons/options for the high LTFT numbers. I loose an infinitesimal amount of coolant. I haven’t had any problems with the EVAP system, other than one code way back, which wasn’t a small or large leak code….never to return.
[quote=”Summer_Night” post=121644][quote=”Sovek” post=121604]I’d make sure you dont have a vacuum leak somewhere. I know my Buick was like that when I changed out the upper intake manifold gasket and didnt tighten down the back bolts properly.[/quote]
Very much what the problem sounds like. I had this intake vacuum leak twice –
On a 94 grand prix – when cold, it would rev up, stall, rev, stall, etc until it reached operating temp.
On my 99 cougar – at first it ran a little rough at times but got to the point where it ran rough ALL the time.So for the OP – does engine temperature change anything? Intake leaks can cause some weird stuff and in your case, I would almost bet that if you cannot find any other leaks – start looking at the intake upper and lower gaskets. Both of your IAC are probably fine. If there is a vacuum leak, it is going to be working overtime trying to find a stable idle, a mere symptom instead of cause. Of course having to replace intake gaskets is the worst case in fixing a vacuum leak so exhaust all other options first.[/quote]
It’s doubly bad since it’s an intake gasket and it’s in an Astro. The fact that it’s a V8 makes no matter, it would be the same problem if it had the V6. I guess the only thing I can add is that when I take the oil cap off, the fuel trims definitely change for the worse, and putting Propane in through the oil fill hose stabilized the readings. I have video of it on my computer somewhere. I think the fact of the matter is, I have a lower intake gasket leak, which can’t be confirmed externally, I can only assume that it’s sucking out the crank case. I’ve done a water test, propane test, carb cleaner test all around the upper and lower intake and the base of the throttle body.
I don’t want to do an intake, but I’m getting to the point that I’m out of other viable reasons/options for the high LTFT numbers. I loose an infinitesimal amount of coolant. I haven’t had any problems with the EVAP system, other than one code way back, which wasn’t a small or large leak code….never to return.
This is what has me scratching my head about this. I started thinking while posting in another forum or two today that I wonder if the EVAP hose ( hard line with a quick connect ) that runs next to the distributor and coil might have something to do with it. I did have to work by it recently when checking out the coil, and there’s not much space/wiggle room with the wire loom that is running through that area of the intake. I checked the distributor for play, but it just rides up the teeth of the gears and my timing is fine, and I checked my CMP as well, just to make sure. it’s still sitting happily at 2 degrees BTDC, right where it’s supposed to be at.
Attachments:This is what has me scratching my head about this. I started thinking while posting in another forum or two today that I wonder if the EVAP hose ( hard line with a quick connect ) that runs next to the distributor and coil might have something to do with it. I did have to work by it recently when checking out the coil, and there’s not much space/wiggle room with the wire loom that is running through that area of the intake. I checked the distributor for play, but it just rides up the teeth of the gears and my timing is fine, and I checked my CMP as well, just to make sure. it’s still sitting happily at 2 degrees BTDC, right where it’s supposed to be at.
Attachments:I’d suspect the PCM in this case. If it were just a ground issue, it would possibly affect one of your problems, but not that many unless it were the battery ground itself. Check voltage from the battery post to a ground and see if that reconciles with voltage across the posts.
I’d suspect the PCM in this case. If it were just a ground issue, it would possibly affect one of your problems, but not that many unless it were the battery ground itself. Check voltage from the battery post to a ground and see if that reconciles with voltage across the posts.
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