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[quote=”redfury” post=191315][quote=”RED7218″ post=191293]Newby Memphis area.. Eric great videos.
Short story 2000 Chevy WT 4.3L crank but no start Seems to turn over normally. Fuel pressure about 65 ( newer pump) starting fluid still nothing, no spark. at coil with jumper wire replacing coil wire, strong bat voltage on one terminal, pulsating voltage negative side with test light. Seems like ignition coil so I ignored my golden rule (its not the coil) and replaced coil with a new one anyway. still no spark..When cranking I don’t see a tach reading at the cluster. Hooked up scanner and I can see starting RPM in data stream, 2 unrelated (old) lean bank codes, Nothing else. Pulled cap and don’t see anything weird with the distributor. I’m very familiar with cross fire cap issues Trying not to just throw parts at it.
I’m leaning towards a crank or cam position sensor or possibly a wiring harness problem. I think the ECM RPM/tach reading is from the crank sensor, right? Would a dead camshaft sensor prevent startup? ITs strange to me that I’m getting good bat and pulsating negative at coil but still no spark.
I would really appreciate some help on this. Marshall..[/quote]Have you tested the ignition control module next to the coil? If that tests good, the only thing that I can think of is the pick up in the distributor or a worn distributor gear.
Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk[/quote]Apparently I’m a day late and a doll hair short.
Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk
[quote=”RED7218″ post=191293]Newby Memphis area.. Eric great videos.
Short story 2000 Chevy WT 4.3L crank but no start Seems to turn over normally. Fuel pressure about 65 ( newer pump) starting fluid still nothing, no spark. at coil with jumper wire replacing coil wire, strong bat voltage on one terminal, pulsating voltage negative side with test light. Seems like ignition coil so I ignored my golden rule (its not the coil) and replaced coil with a new one anyway. still no spark..When cranking I don’t see a tach reading at the cluster. Hooked up scanner and I can see starting RPM in data stream, 2 unrelated (old) lean bank codes, Nothing else. Pulled cap and don’t see anything weird with the distributor. I’m very familiar with cross fire cap issues Trying not to just throw parts at it.
I’m leaning towards a crank or cam position sensor or possibly a wiring harness problem. I think the ECM RPM/tach reading is from the crank sensor, right? Would a dead camshaft sensor prevent startup? ITs strange to me that I’m getting good bat and pulsating negative at coil but still no spark.
I would really appreciate some help on this. Marshall..[/quote]Have you tested the ignition control module next to the coil? If that tests good, the only thing that I can think of is the pick up in the distributor or a worn distributor gear.
Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk
[quote=”ajottmar” post=191102]Yes it cranks, but doesn’t start. I did the ignition cycle sequence and that doesn’t help. I have new plugs and wires on the docket to be installed. We’ll see what it has to say then.
Thanks for your help![/quote]What kind of MPG are you seeing with the car? Initially, most people are going to focus on the fuel pressure side of the equation. I would like to see what cold fuel rail pressure is before cranking it up cold vs where it is at when shut down hot. You can expect some pressure loss due to the system cooling down, but it should hold fairly steady. If it does, then you are looking at ignition/injector timing control. Could be a flaky sensor, though normally you that they are going to act up when hot.Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk
I had a 65 Fury 3…miss the old girl. http://www.rubbertherightway.com/#loadContent.filterValuesRequest,filter_id_55=55|202,filter_id_41=41|50,pageGroup=1,pageNumber=1
Not sure if that’s got everything you will need. You might just have to make some phone calls.YouTube is your friend in this case. I’ve watched a few videos, and I’ve seen the use of a lit grid being displayed on the car to use the lines to see the warping of the panel until the grid lines up properly. So, if you’ve been holding onto that overhead projector, that might finally be of use again. Beyond that, you’re probably going to have to purchase a few of the tools and give it a go.
Newest UPDATE. So, I used the pin hole in the water bottle trick and did find a vacuum leak on the passenger side of the intake manifold. I had done a vacuum test through the dipstick tube looking for vacuum ( lower intake leak ) and only had slight pressure ( piston blow by ). I had decided on the pinhole leak when I had earlier taken the garden hose to the van and it about killed it. Taking the water bottle to it caused the CEL to flash a severe misfire.
So, I buckled down, and did it. I replace the lower intake gasket and the plenum gasket. Cleaned up the intake let it sit overnight while the RTV cured, replaced the timing cover since it was leaking horribly and I already had to drain coolant. That wasn’t a terrible job really….
So, I fired it up and got a backfire. I though I had accidentally swapped two poppet valves, but in reality had swapped two plug wires. Figured that out by doing a cylinder drop test.
Now here’s the rub. I’m getting high 20s to 30 short term fuel trim at idle, zero long term. They clean up when I give it some gas down to single digits or zeroes, but then increase the longer it stays at the new RPM. I have to recheck my fuel pressure ( new fuel pump and filter 2 years ago ) and I didn’t have the resources to put in a new spider, and there was no evidence of any leaky poppets or fuel pressure regulator.
I still need to set the CMP retard and check for misfires before I do anything else. I have access to the pressure pot style fuel injector cleaner…I think I am going to run some injector cleaner through that as well since I have it available. I am going to reset the computer to relearn the adaptive trim as well so I can get a new baseline.
Timken is usually the better bearing to use, but the reality of it is that I’d stay away from the cheap bearings that are made in China and try to find something that is made in the USA mostly due to better quality steel used. I’ve read a ton of reviews saying that the cheaper chinese bearings will last you about 3 oil changes before going out again.
Changing the bearing out can be a breeze, or an absolute nightmare. The biggest obstacle in replacing the bearing is getting the bearing separated from the knuckle that it bolts to. Our Santa Fe rear bearing was destroyed getting it out to replace an axle. My shop van was the same thing on both front bearings ( 2002 Chevy Express van ). My Astro, both sides came out with little effort. There are ways to coax the hub assembly out of the knuckle, but it requires special tools and effort.
At the very least you’ll want to have a 3 lb maul for beating on it with, a good set of solit pry bars and penetrating fluid. Installation I would recommend using antiseize on the new bearing so it can be removed easily down the road.
Can’t, it’s a V8 conversion, there’s no room to put the original air filter in. I’ve been toying with building a custom fiberglass housing for a while, but haven’t gotten around to it yet. I have the same problems with fuel trim with the filter on, off, freshly cleaned, old, new ( I replaced it with a new one once already ).
I’m starting to wonder exactly what is going on. The other day I went to start it, it cranked over, started and stalled immediately and then acted like it had flooded out…cranked with the throttle open and caught a whiff of the cloud of smoke that came out of the tailpipes…smelled like a really rich burn. I’m starting to wonder if I don’t have something going on under the plenum….I replaced the coolant sensor a couple of months ago because the old one was leaking and have monitored the signal to the PCM, so I’m assuming it’s only enriching the fuel due to the cold temps…but to flood it that fast?
You are going to be looking for anything that looks wet that shouldn’t still be wet if you haven’t recently washed the vehicle or driven through a puddle, etc. It’s going to be an oil spray from a pin hole most likely. Follow the rust. I had to replace my rear line on my Astro…yeah, gas tank area. Nice thing is, now you can buy brake line that you can bend by hand, so it’s easier to replace…you just need to use a good flaring tool for the ends if you have to make your own line. I’ve used it on two different vehicles with excellent results.
[video width=425 height=344 type=youtube]KfqVX7Ma-Xs[/video]
Didn’t get around to pulling the doghouse off to check fuel pressure, but I’m going to once we get some decent weather again or I can pull it into my works shop and check it out where it’s warm ( currently hovering at single digit daytime highs this week ).
This is a completely cold start, temps were right around freezing…colder than that and it isn’t a happy camper. @ -14F this morning, it didn’t really care to want to turn over it was so cold, but she fired up and ran with the throttle held for a few seconds to get the juices flowing. I never have extended cranking like a low fuel pressure/volume issue.
I have access to an OTC Genesis, but my personal tool can only read the basics like map , MAF, O2’s, etc.
No need to explain, I’ve always wanted a double cab or a 21 window, or a barn door, or anything really. My wife hates the VW Microbus, but I’m working on wooing her on one. I’d like to get a Baja bug, but I have to be realistic, I need a place to keep one first.
Another thread update. We’ve sold the Santa Fe. In the time we owned it, the steering rack, starter and rear axle had to be replaced. We were getting due for the timing belt and new tires, and really weren’t loving it anymore. The wife missed her Ford Explorer, and started looking at Sport Tracs. We purchased a 2002 Sport Trac and haven’t looked back…we really love this truck. The mileage in the Santa Fe wasn’t much better than the 5.0 AWD Explorer, except on the highway, and the Unibody construction left my wife wanting for a solid truck frame feel. She missed the sturdiness of the Explorers on frame construction and ride height. The seats are much more comfortable for me and it feels like we are back home in the Explorer, it just has a small pick up bed instead.
The Santa fe was a great ride, the aftermarket warranty paid for itself, but the trade in value was nothing near where we had hoped, and it was still clean and rust free ( and a limited edition with all the bells and whistles ). Oh well, we don’t regret the decision, and the Ford will have the same end date on payments as we had left on the Santa Fe anyway, so in the end it will work out. The wife says she plans on keeping this truck and not letting it go, so I guess I’ll have to really keep an eye on the maintenance on it.
