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I think you’re right. However I am going to try just sticking bearings in as you suggested just to try and get it back on the road for a little while. It was only just starting to click. 4 and 6 just had tiny amounts of side to side movement. It was enough to be audible however, but they aren’t fully spun. Maybe I can get away with that for a while. Besides the bearings were cheap. Also got some ARP rod bolts to eliminate those stupid one time use rod bolts that VW charges 23 dollars a piece for. Here’s the dilemma though, I called around yesterday and it seems that a running lower mileage VR6 is gonna be extremely hard to find. Even a VW specialty shop local to me only had one in stock and it was the 24 valve which my ecu won’t run. I have the 12 valve. And it’s because the AFP code engine was only produced from 1999.5 to 2002. I can find the AAA code which is identical EXCEPT that there is no provision for the driver’s side engine mount. They used a front lower mount instead on that one for most of its production run but a very few 1998-early 99 had the mount boss drilled and tapped. Maybe while I have it running again, IF this holds up for me, which I’m going to polish the whiz out of the crank journals, and with those ARP bolts it should work for a while at least, one will turn up.
I found a crank kit online, BUT I’m afraid I’m gonna have to replace the rods as well, and the aftermarkets are more expensive than the OEM which are absolutely ridiculously priced already. The rabbit hole gets deeper as you say. I’m still unsure on it because the bearings were just starting to spin, and there was only slight movement on the journal.
Eric, are you accepting any new FiF projects? A shop has spun a bearing in my car, and of course it isn’t their fault they say, but the mech was just beating the unholy crap out of my car. I could smell hot brakes when he got back. Now, I just did the timing chains 2 months ago, and I had the oil pan off, so I made darn sure I checked the rods, and there was exactly zero movement, no metal in the oil, nothing. I’m in school to be an aircraft mechanic driving 100 miles a day. It brings me to tears to think I may have to drop out over this. I hate asking for help, I hate whining, and I hate sounding like a complainer or sounding like a victim, because that’s not me, but I honestly feel like this shop has stolen my future from me.
I’m in the same do not start it camp. I’m seriously afraid of moving the car because the engine is hanging by one mount
Yep that’s the logo on the chain and I had the red Iwis box with the holographic sticker. Germanautoparts.com has a pretty good reputation and were recommended to me numerous times. Here’s something else as well. I got so frustrated last night that I took out my caliper and measured the crank rotation to the point that the slack is out of the chain. It is exactly 10.00 millimeters. So I measured peak to peak on the sprocket teeth, and again it is exactly 10.00 millimeters. So I backed it up exactly 10 mm BEHIND the TDC mark, and tried to move a tooth on the sprocket. No go. The chain was too tight to get the guide rail in. So please check my reasoning here. Since my crank moves 10 mm and my sprocket teeth are 10 mm apart, and there is a 2:1 ratio there, I’m 5 mm off correct? Which is half a tooth. Also, the same thing happens with my old upper chain. I tried it. Now, I’ve been told by a VW tech that a half tooth is impossible, and that the tensioner will take it up. A second opinion from a different VW tech said DO NOT start the car half a tooth off. It’s been 50/50 back and forth between them. Any suggestions?
As stated above the dust shields are easily bent. Barring that, it may just be that the pads are needing to be bed in. When I did the brakes on my Jetta they would groan every time I backed up for about 2 weeks. It did go away though.
Correct. I’m thinking of when I first got into it that the tool lined up perfectly, but there was slack between the chains then as well. Something else troubling me is that the crank rotates a little before the chains begin to rotate. Brother this thing is super tight on the tension side. I couldn’t get it to go another tooth if I wanted to. The lower I checked and checked again and each time I roll around to TDC, the little pointer lines up with the vertical notch in behind it. Also there aren’t any marks on the chain or any special colored links. They’re Iwis brand from Germanautoparts.
How right you are Eric. If someone truly wants your stuff, well…I suppose that in the case of that it would pretty much only be for peace of mind. However it would be a good deterrent. I remember you talking about your shop being taken away and I can say you’re a cooler head than I. I would have cracked his skull open. Especially after taking some of my tools.
I love the long series vids. I don’t watch tv anymore so its a great way to unwind and relax for a couple hours before bed
I love the long series vids. I don’t watch tv anymore so its a great way to unwind and relax for a couple hours before bed
Oh yea I caught the vid. That was why I brought the topic up, cuz you were talking about the projectors and reflectors. I cant wait to see the HID fogs. Also I dont know if you would have an answer for this without testing but I keep hearing opposing opinions on whether or not lower K numbers are better for poor weather visibility or high Kelvins. Seems to me that the 3000k yellow would be awesome in the rain or snow. I had standard halogen 6 inch fogs on my truck and when I swapped to a yellow lens I could see much better in bad stuff. Especially snow. Think I may do 6000K headlights and 3000K fogs on my Jetta
Oh yea I caught the vid. That was why I brought the topic up, cuz you were talking about the projectors and reflectors. I cant wait to see the HID fogs. Also I dont know if you would have an answer for this without testing but I keep hearing opposing opinions on whether or not lower K numbers are better for poor weather visibility or high Kelvins. Seems to me that the 3000k yellow would be awesome in the rain or snow. I had standard halogen 6 inch fogs on my truck and when I swapped to a yellow lens I could see much better in bad stuff. Especially snow. Think I may do 6000K headlights and 3000K fogs on my Jetta
On VW trims GL is base, GLS is mid level with leather premium sound and moonroof optional and GLX is every option standard plus VR6 on Jetta and Passat. You can get the VR in the GLS as an opion, but on the GLX it becomes standard for applicable vehicles. Also, in the Passat, you get the option of VR6, Audi V6 or W8
On VW trims GL is base, GLS is mid level with leather premium sound and moonroof optional and GLX is every option standard plus VR6 on Jetta and Passat. You can get the VR in the GLS as an opion, but on the GLX it becomes standard for applicable vehicles. Also, in the Passat, you get the option of VR6, Audi V6 or W8