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forgot to ask was the FOB the original ? if not that too can be your problem ! also check the fuses should be either a 10 amp (red fuse) or a 20 amp (yellow fuse) fuse location is 19 ! their is outside chance it could be the right side B-pillar switch has gone bad or has dirty connection with in. as this switch has a internal resistor inside that can go bad and cause all kinds of gremlin problems!
forgot to ask was the FOB the original ? if not that too can be your problem ! also check the fuses should be either a 10 amp (red fuse) or a 20 amp (yellow fuse) fuse location is 19 ! their is outside chance it could be the right side B-pillar switch has gone bad or has dirty connection with in. as this switch has a internal resistor inside that can go bad and cause all kinds of gremlin problems!
check for any and all vacuum leaks. the I.A.C was compensation for a vacuuming leak that’s way the pintle was all the way out. F.Y.I the 3.1 has a big problem with intake manifold leakss the common leak location is along the s shaped molding on the block where the vally pan sits. your girlfriend’s car most likely has this problem. Check for a recall you and /or her might be able to get it done for free maybe maybe not it’s worth checking. before the coolant pumps past the faulty seal and blow’s her engine. being a 94 Chevrolet Lumina 3.1L v6. your looking at about 2k to 3k for a long block replacement.
the replacement manifold gasket set can be gotten at any auto parts place most common gasket set is made be fel-pro. for the diy’er it’s take most likely the whole day depending upon D.I.Y experience.
and all torque sequence must be followed the letter.check for any and all vacuum leaks. the I.A.C was compensation for a vacuuming leak that’s way the pintle was all the way out. F.Y.I the 3.1 has a big problem with intake manifold leakss the common leak location is along the s shaped molding on the block where the vally pan sits. your girlfriend’s car most likely has this problem. Check for a recall you and /or her might be able to get it done for free maybe maybe not it’s worth checking. before the coolant pumps past the faulty seal and blow’s her engine. being a 94 Chevrolet Lumina 3.1L v6. your looking at about 2k to 3k for a long block replacement.
the replacement manifold gasket set can be gotten at any auto parts place most common gasket set is made be fel-pro. for the diy’er it’s take most likely the whole day depending upon D.I.Y experience.
and all torque sequence must be followed the letter.check all electrical connections for corrosion and bad grounds ! you might have to replace the control module for the automatic doors. which means dollar bills !
check all electrical connections for corrosion and bad grounds ! you might have to replace the control module for the automatic doors. which means dollar bills !
“BOTCHED” was the word I was trying to find last-night ! most likely some shop with their so called strut special ! what alot of shops over look is the fact that the front end is serviced as a whole meaning struts , wheelbearing , ball-joints, tie-rod, springs,stabilizer bushing’s. main point being is that when the strut goes out the force on not only the tire but also, the wheel bearing and ball joints is that of a impact gun on a tight bolt ! extreme vibration = faster wear on suspension components! and thus, foams the the brake fluid in the front caliper and introducing air inside the brake system thus, causing pitting inside of the brake caliper. the other side of this coin is that what ever shop did the work had no pride in their work at all ! if they did the owner of said car would of been inform by the shop that the struts were only part of the problem and not the sole problem ! now the owner has to pull out even more money to have the job done right ! provided that the next shop has pride in their work and are public safety orientated like I am !
where the struts primed before going in ? what it also could be is air is trying to compress fluid ! and fluid doesn’t compress ! thus, feels like something is seized !
just let me know if you need any more help on this car as I am quite versed in working on these corsica’s ! by the way I would highly recommend replacing the entire control arm Advance auto has the after market one’s by Doorman they have the new ball joint all ready riveted on and new control arm bushing’s as well. their $115.99 part # 520-153 and 520-154. as this would solve alot of your suspension problems ! on top of the strut bearing. also, the way to test the wheel bearing is lift car till the wheel just comes off the ground bout 1 – inch off the ground then see if their is “play” in the wheel if their is “any” “play” replace the wheel bearing caused it should have none !
you should not be able to “move” the tire side to side and up and down ! since it a wheel hub Assembly ! F.Y.I ! fun fact the inner race is plastic! good luck in getting you front end correctly fixed !“BOTCHED” was the word I was trying to find last-night ! most likely some shop with their so called strut special ! what alot of shops over look is the fact that the front end is serviced as a whole meaning struts , wheelbearing , ball-joints, tie-rod, springs,stabilizer bushing’s. main point being is that when the strut goes out the force on not only the tire but also, the wheel bearing and ball joints is that of a impact gun on a tight bolt ! extreme vibration = faster wear on suspension components! and thus, foams the the brake fluid in the front caliper and introducing air inside the brake system thus, causing pitting inside of the brake caliper. the other side of this coin is that what ever shop did the work had no pride in their work at all ! if they did the owner of said car would of been inform by the shop that the struts were only part of the problem and not the sole problem ! now the owner has to pull out even more money to have the job done right ! provided that the next shop has pride in their work and are public safety orientated like I am !
where the struts primed before going in ? what it also could be is air is trying to compress fluid ! and fluid doesn’t compress ! thus, feels like something is seized !
just let me know if you need any more help on this car as I am quite versed in working on these corsica’s ! by the way I would highly recommend replacing the entire control arm Advance auto has the after market one’s by Doorman they have the new ball joint all ready riveted on and new control arm bushing’s as well. their $115.99 part # 520-153 and 520-154. as this would solve alot of your suspension problems ! on top of the strut bearing. also, the way to test the wheel bearing is lift car till the wheel just comes off the ground bout 1 – inch off the ground then see if their is “play” in the wheel if their is “any” “play” replace the wheel bearing caused it should have none !
you should not be able to “move” the tire side to side and up and down ! since it a wheel hub Assembly ! F.Y.I ! fun fact the inner race is plastic! good luck in getting you front end correctly fixed !one problem it could be is a plugged idle jet and or emulsion tube the other is the valve’s need readjusting if it spins really fast without to much effort the valve’s need to be reset (adjusted)! third problem vacuum leak ! this mower (4) intake gasket’s on it and or all cold be bad.
one problem it could be is a plugged idle jet and or emulsion tube the other is the valve’s need readjusting if it spins really fast without to much effort the valve’s need to be reset (adjusted)! third problem vacuum leak ! this mower (4) intake gasket’s on it and or all cold be bad.
the upper strut bearing’s on both sides need to be replaced ! what’s causing the stiff steering is the bearing is froze/worn and it’s causing the wheels to camber in and out whenever you steer. the upper strut bearing does a couple of job’s one important job is steering, second absorption from shimmy and most important of all is caster. the inclination of the axial point from the center of the tire to forward and rear ward pivot of the strut under load. (I.E) reverse , drive). the bumps you feel are knot’s in the belt’s of the tire’s from the old strut’s. replace the front tire’s and the front wheel bearing’s and the lower ball joint’s and tie rod’s all four of them. as the alignment can’t be done correctly with worn wheel bearing and ball joint’s and loose tie rod’s. no print out mean’s no alignment was ever done !
the upper strut bearing’s on both sides need to be replaced ! what’s causing the stiff steering is the bearing is froze/worn and it’s causing the wheels to camber in and out whenever you steer. the upper strut bearing does a couple of job’s one important job is steering, second absorption from shimmy and most important of all is caster. the inclination of the axial point from the center of the tire to forward and rear ward pivot of the strut under load. (I.E) reverse , drive). the bumps you feel are knot’s in the belt’s of the tire’s from the old strut’s. replace the front tire’s and the front wheel bearing’s and the lower ball joint’s and tie rod’s all four of them. as the alignment can’t be done correctly with worn wheel bearing and ball joint’s and loose tie rod’s. no print out mean’s no alignment was ever done !