[Michael Gray]

Not that anyone cares, it seems, but it turned out to be the alternator. Locked up the other day, and had to have the car toed. A replacement is on the way.

[Michael Gray]

Had the brakes checked yesterday. They and the wheels seem fine. Also yesterday, the alternator seized and I had to get a tow home. So now I’m thinking that it has been the source of the noise. Fortunately, alternators are something I can wrap my brain around. I’ve rebuilt them before.

[Michael Gray]

Ok, I watched some ETCG videos, and found a bad idler pulley. I managed to replace it myself, and now the engine is quiet while idling. However, there is still a noise coming from somewhere that sounds like an old rusty wheel turning. Like a medium pitched groan. It comes and goes, but it’s there most often at 20mph or faster, and gets louder when the speed increases. But it’s not constant. It still comes and goes.

I’m thinking this one might be in the wheels or axels maybe? I listened as a driver and a passenger, and it seems to be coming from the driver’s side. Turning doesn’t seem to affect it. It’s hard to tell for sure, but I think the noise goes away when braking. I’ll search for more info and videos, but again, suggestions are welcome.

[Michael Gray]

Testing the electric choke.

Parts all clean!

I decided to modify the choke a little so it would take screws instead of rivets.

Sorted out the new parts from the rebuild kit. Too bad there’s no replacement for the accelerator pump dust cover.

Happy carbs. The 80 and 81 both done.

[Michael Gray]

Thanks all, for your insights.

I’ve just this afternoon bought a 99 Ford Ranger. So far, it starts up easy, idles smooth, shifts good, everything works!
White wouldn’t have been my first choice, but my boy is already calling it the Storm Trooper. Hard to argue with that!

[Michael Gray]

Finally got the last few pictures done. I ran into a couple of really stubborn screws!

So that’s it for now. Some time this spring I hope to remove the spare carb from my 80 Civic, and install and adjust the original.

[Michael Gray]

Here’s a few more:

[Michael Gray]

Received the rebuild kit from Walker.

The instruction sheet that came with has more details than the last kit I bought.

I’ll be using this kit on the 81 Keihin I got off the parts car. I’m currently cleaning up the main components as well as taking apart the peripherals.
I decided to do a series of pictures for this part instead of a video. I think labeled pictures will get the info across better for these parts.

Here’s what I’ve got so far:

[Michael Gray]

Part 2:

[Michael Gray]

Here is an 81 Keihin disassembly part 1:

[Michael Gray]

Thanks andrewbutton442,
I didn’t use JB weld. I have also heard that it will dissolve in gas over time. I used a gasoline resistant epoxy made by Permatex for bonding metals.
It will be interesting to see how it holds up.

[Michael Gray]

Here’s a video of a similar carb being removed from an 81 Civic Wagon:

Here’s the 81 next to the 80:

[Michael Gray]

Well, I’m no Eric, but here’s a video of the carb being assembled:

[Michael Gray]

I made a replacement for the alignment pin that was missing. Found a tube with the proper outer diameter, and did some reaming, cutting, and filing. Its a bit shorter that the original, but it will do the job.

I’ve been looking for a good product for reattaching the bit that broke off the float pin arm. I tried Seal-All, as its gas resistant, but after a couple tries, its just too rubbery, and lets go too easily. Right now I’m trying a gas resistant epoxy. Its hardened up nice in the last couple hours. Tomorrow I’ll see how it actually stands up to gasoline. I hope it works.

[Michael Gray]

Pine Sol, water, heat, and time. Some of the more stubborn parts had to “cook” for an hour or more to loosen up the crud.
I used one pot full for the body parts, and a fresh solution for the peripherals. The most effective cleaning tools I found were an old tooth brush, and a little “pipe cleaner” bottle brush. The rubber and plastic parts can also be cleaned up with the solution, but I didn’t let them soak. Just a quick dip and some brushing.
I still plan to use a carb cleaner spray can, and compressed air, to make sure all the channels are clear.

I’ve had pretty good results with this method in the past. I mostly do small engine stuff. Like 50cc moped engines. Sometimes I’ll have to go back with a stronger chemical, but by then, most of the grease and grime is gone, and I’m only working with a few problem spots.

Now that the linkage is all clean, I wonder, what is the best lubrication for it.?

[Author]

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