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I didn’t start posting about the fan till page 17, if that helps. The relay mod was just replacing the OE relays with regular 30/40 amp SPDT relays. I checked the wiring on the relays and it matches the diagram they had posted. I used my DMM with the positive probe on the positive battery terminal and the negative probe in the negative of the fan harness.
I have not tried bypassing the relays.
How do I go about doing a voltage drop test?
Didn’t check power at the start cut out relay.
The fan had quit working before the motor dropped the seat. I just never really dug into it because I knew the motor was about to do something even though I had no idea it was going to drop a seat and destroy a few things.
Got a motor out of a 95 and decided to just go through the entire car and fix anything that was there. While the motor was out I cleaned up every ground point in the engine bay. There is one on the transmission for the battery and 2 ground locations behind the drivers side head light and one hanging on the passenger fender well. Took both off and cleaned both surfaces with a drill/wire wheel. I’m picky when it comes to cleaning ground points.
I changed the relays thinking that was the issue. That wiring diagram is for my vehicle. Not much changes between 2nd gen escorts.
I also changed the ECT. So basically most of the cooling electronics are new.
Yeah you lost me. I didn’t know there was some technique to using a DMM.
Or I just didn’t understand how you worded it.
I wasn’t doing the test like shown in the video. All I did was check and see if I had a proper voltage going through the ground. I didn’t preform a voltage drop test like he posted.
And I understand what they are doing in that video. I just have to do it.
I have a test light and a DVOM. Sorry for the confusion there. I did watch the video about the starter and the voltage drop.
Only sensors that needed switching is the IAC and TPS. Figured that out not long after the swap. I had a thread on here about that.
I don’t mean to come off as to I don’t know what I’m doing. I’m not used to doing these testing procedures.
Oh I understand. I know where your coming from and I took your response as to I should learn a few more things. No problem over here bro!
Nothing is different besides the TPS and IAC. The wiring is virtually the same between cars. Only thing wiring that was swapped was the engine harness. It’s completely separate from the vehicles. Wiring for the ECT and stuff is vehicle related and is the same between second gens OBD or OBD-II.
There is a wiring issue somewhere for the relay not allowing power to be sent to the fans. But all the wiring that goes to the relay seems to be working. It’s just not allowing power.
Thanks for the tips but I fixed the issue. I removed the 95 harness and used my 96 harness and sensors. Everything starts up and runs perfectly. Thanks for the help guys!
Done. Hope it helps future people out.
Just the IAC. But I know why that is because I have it unplugged lol.
I don’t have a gauge or a smoke machine lol. If you watch and listen to the video before I plug the IAC in. It sounds like air getting in from somewhere it’s not supposed to. I did go and pick up a intake manifold gasket which I’ll probably change tomorrow. I wanted to change it anyways so it doesn’t matter to me.
Will do. Supposed to be 54F tomorrow and sunny. Perfect day to do it. Wish I had the money to do it when I did all the other gaskets before I put the motor in.
No I do not.
Now would this issue have to do with ANYTHING with the motor being a 95 and the car itself being a 96. Wiring harnesses are the same but the connectors are different for a few things. Also the 95 was pre OBD-II. Would I have to get a 95 computer or get my 96 computer tuned to 95 emissions?
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