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The info was stickied in another forum. Can’t complain about that lol.
The diagram was from ondemand. So must be right.
Here is the pictures I said I would post. It is labeled fuel injection.
The starter cut off relay you speak of is that listed as cooling fan power relay? On that diagram I listed. It’s hard to do anything today because we got ice rain last night and there is a layer of ice everywhere. I don’t have a garage so I do everything in my driveway lol.
Issue is fixed. I kept thinking and thinking about the relay in the fuse box. I said screw it I’ll buy a new one. Sure enough I replaced it and the fan fires right up when I do the ECT trick and key on fuse out. Thanks for your help guys!
Its the relay in the fuse box under the hood. Can’t recall what it’s labled as. I believe that one does control the starter too.
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I’ll get a picture of it here in a few. I’m just relaxing now lol.Yes I changed the 2 relays in the fender. I don’t even know if the old ones were bad. But they are replaced now so I don’t have to worry about that. And when I was doing just normal testing at the relays. Not doing the voltage drop test, there was power going TO the relays but not out. I was testing right on the spade of the relay.
And for the valve seat it’s a shot in the dark really. Some motors have it happen others don’t. I’ve heard that over heating can cause it to fail. But I want to put that issue behind me. I got my baby back lol.
I actually may have had a blonde moment(I’m not blonde though lol) and was testing the relay backwards. MAYBE. I don’t know. I got a video for you guys. Don’t know if it helps or just makes me look like a fool.
Video is uploading now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ys6ySPIWXvc’
And its the opposite if I key on fuse out. While probing with the positive probe. Just no power at the fan wiring.
This is how the relays are wired. They are both 5 wire 30/40amp SPDT relays.
That was the only “testing” I got done today.
Yes I understood that.
The motor is the 1.9. I don’t have any scanners or diagnostic equipment. Just a test light and a DMM and some paitience lol.
Yes I know the fan won’t kick on till a certain temperature. I did the key on fuse out trick to make the car think something is wrong and needs to turn the fan on. Also let the car warm up and unplugged the ECT to make it think it’s over heating. I hear the relay(s) click but the fan doesn’t come on.
If you go to the last page on that thread I linked you can see what I’ve done.
I do not have any power coming from the relays when they are activated. The Yellow and LG/Yellow wiring has no power coming from the relays.
I tested the fan using 2 wires directly to the battery. tested the high and low separately.
I also tested voltage at the ground side of the fan and it’s seeing proper voltage when the vehicle is off and on. Matches with the battery.
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