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Regarding driving the car until the problem is more pronounced. It depends. What you do not want to do is continue with a problem that may require another catalytic converter replacement $$$.
Did anyone check the functional performance of your upstream O2 sensor, your long term and short term fuel trims at idle and while increasing rpms, and for any misfires(although misfires should throw a check engine light)?
The reason I ask is that these are easy checks and you do not want misfires or too rich a fuel mixture running through your engine. That will cause premature wear of the catalytic converter.
One free and fairly fast way to get these readings is to go to an Autozone and see if they can hook up a scanner to your vehicle and tell you if the upstream O2 sensor is working correctly, whether or not there are any misfires, and if there is anything wrong with your long term and short term fuel trims. (Do not buy anything based on a recommendation from an Autozone employee until you double check the reason for the purchase with an independent third party. These employees are helpful but also in the business of selling parts). Another option, you could also call Mechanic #2 on the telephone and ask him since he replaced the O2 sensors.
If the upstream o2 sensor is working correctly, there are no misfires, and the long term and short term fuel trims are normal there is less risk that you will prematurely wear out your new catalytic converters.
Also, how clean is your air filter? If it is very dirty upon visual inspection stop by Walmart, pick up, and install a new one. A really dirty $15 air filter can cause a rich fuel mix condition and rough idle. Simple, I know.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=108070]Look for a good bracket on the front of the engine or sometimes you may even find a loop or other item that is used to lift the engine from the vehicle. I normally don’t like to use bolts to hold an engine up. I have however used an old seat belt to tie around areas on an engine to lift it. In fact, that’s what I do in this series.
Good luck and keep us posted.[/quote]
I saw the series and thought about a seat belt. Unfortunately, a seat belt is problematic because I plan to change the oil pan as part of this process.
I decided to purchase the Miller Special Tool (got it on ebay) specifically designed to lift the engine. Don’t want to take any chances with the fuel rail and other parts that will be on the engine when I lift it a few inches. This special tool fixes to the engine with three bolts. Picture attached.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=108070]Look for a good bracket on the front of the engine or sometimes you may even find a loop or other item that is used to lift the engine from the vehicle. I normally don’t like to use bolts to hold an engine up. I have however used an old seat belt to tie around areas on an engine to lift it. In fact, that’s what I do in this series.
Good luck and keep us posted.[/quote]
I saw the series and thought about a seat belt. Unfortunately, a seat belt is problematic because I plan to change the oil pan as part of this process.
I decided to purchase the Miller Special Tool (got it on ebay) specifically designed to lift the engine. Don’t want to take any chances with the fuel rail and other parts that will be on the engine when I lift it a few inches. This special tool fixes to the engine with three bolts. Picture attached.
[quote=”barneyb” post=107901]…you are the person there, it is your hands that will be exposed if the thing drops. You gotta decide.
Anyway, I’ve done a lot of automotive work and I still have all my fingers intact. This comes from being a coward when things don’t look completely safe.[/quote]
Good point. I plan to use the engine hoist rated at 1,500 lbs to raise the engine about 2-3 inches. As a precaution, I will put small 2″x 4″ wooden blocks between the engine and the frame on both sides of the engine and then slightly lower the engine onto the wooden blocks and use the hoist as a back-up safety.
[quote=”barneyb” post=107901]…you are the person there, it is your hands that will be exposed if the thing drops. You gotta decide.
Anyway, I’ve done a lot of automotive work and I still have all my fingers intact. This comes from being a coward when things don’t look completely safe.[/quote]
Good point. I plan to use the engine hoist rated at 1,500 lbs to raise the engine about 2-3 inches. As a precaution, I will put small 2″x 4″ wooden blocks between the engine and the frame on both sides of the engine and then slightly lower the engine onto the wooden blocks and use the hoist as a back-up safety.
The bolt takes a 1/2 inch washer and nut so I imagine it can support between 1,000 lbs and 2,300 lbs. Based on that information, it should be fine.
The bolt takes a 1/2 inch washer and nut so I imagine it can support between 1,000 lbs and 2,300 lbs. Based on that information, it should be fine.
[quote=”quickNpainless” post=103480]on the smaller sizes it can be more important to use the correct sae or metric size, but the only sae size I would worry about using under that dash is 1/4″ and 7/16″.
If you’re just buying the tools for working on your jeep, you should be just fine with a cheapo 1/4″ metric socket set and just pick up a miser 1/4″ and 7/16″.[/quote]
Thank you for the reply. Looks like I definitely need at least some sockets. Yesterday, I was at Walmart and purchased a $7.97 1/4″ SAE and Metric socket set with rachet. That night I was having dinner with a Master Mechanic and told him about my great buy. He said, “Never purchase cheap tools as they will strip out easily and quickly on your first or most important job”. So, later that night I returned that cheap set to Walmart unopened.
[quote=”quickNpainless” post=103480]on the smaller sizes it can be more important to use the correct sae or metric size, but the only sae size I would worry about using under that dash is 1/4″ and 7/16″.
If you’re just buying the tools for working on your jeep, you should be just fine with a cheapo 1/4″ metric socket set and just pick up a miser 1/4″ and 7/16″.[/quote]
Thank you for the reply. Looks like I definitely need at least some sockets. Yesterday, I was at Walmart and purchased a $7.97 1/4″ SAE and Metric socket set with rachet. That night I was having dinner with a Master Mechanic and told him about my great buy. He said, “Never purchase cheap tools as they will strip out easily and quickly on your first or most important job”. So, later that night I returned that cheap set to Walmart unopened.
Thank you Hitachi and quickNpainless. I did purchase the 28pc 6pt Gearwrench set for a couple of reasons. The wrench size range was nice, 6pt made sense given that most of the bolts under my Jeep are rusted from East coast weather, and Gearwrench had a good reputation. My other option was a Craftsman set as they made the same exact kit in 6pt. Who knows, maybe they are from the same manufacturer with different finishes and stamps. Cost to the door was good too at $75.
Thank you Hitachi and quickNpainless. I did purchase the 28pc 6pt Gearwrench set for a couple of reasons. The wrench size range was nice, 6pt made sense given that most of the bolts under my Jeep are rusted from East coast weather, and Gearwrench had a good reputation. My other option was a Craftsman set as they made the same exact kit in 6pt. Who knows, maybe they are from the same manufacturer with different finishes and stamps. Cost to the door was good too at $75.
