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[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=116136]My first question is why are you replacing the O2 sensor? If you don’t have any codes for it, or performance issues that could be the result of a bad O2, then perhaps leave it alone. That said, I often use these pliers to get to electrical connectors that are difficult to reach.
http://www.jbtoolsales.com/sunex-3703-3-pc-11-hose-gripper-pliers-set/#oid=1002_1%5B/quote%5D
I had the following four trouble codes:
1. P0153 O2 sensor 2/1 slow response
2. P2098 Downstream fuel trim system 2 lean
3. P0137 O2 sensor 1/2 circuit low
4. P2096 Downstream fuel trim system 1 leanIn inspecting the removed O2 sensors compared to the new O2 sensors it was clear that the four white air intake ports on the outside of each sensor were contaminated. Basically, virtually all of the white air intake ports were black with dirt, grit, grime probably from 10 years of driving.
I guess that restricted fresh air flow into the old O2 sensors from the outside air made it appear that the engine was running lean.
With the new sensors installed there are no more codes and short term and long term fuel trims are normal. All is good and I will probably get 1-2 more miles per gallon.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=116136]My first question is why are you replacing the O2 sensor? If you don’t have any codes for it, or performance issues that could be the result of a bad O2, then perhaps leave it alone. That said, I often use these pliers to get to electrical connectors that are difficult to reach.
http://www.jbtoolsales.com/sunex-3703-3-pc-11-hose-gripper-pliers-set/#oid=1002_1%5B/quote%5D
I had the following four trouble codes:
1. P0153 O2 sensor 2/1 slow response
2. P2098 Downstream fuel trim system 2 lean
3. P0137 O2 sensor 1/2 circuit low
4. P2096 Downstream fuel trim system 1 leanIn inspecting the removed O2 sensors compared to the new O2 sensors it was clear that the four white air intake ports on the outside of each sensor were contaminated. Basically, virtually all of the white air intake ports were black with dirt, grit, grime probably from 10 years of driving.
I guess that restricted fresh air flow into the old O2 sensors from the outside air made it appear that the engine was running lean.
With the new sensors installed there are no more codes and short term and long term fuel trims are normal. All is good and I will probably get 1-2 more miles per gallon.
[quote=”stiv625″ post=118066]Wow, the O2 sensor connectors are pretty easy and straight forward to get to on that same motor in my ’04 GC. Guess ill stick with my WJs as long as I can.[/quote]
Yes. The bear on the WK 4.7L engine is that the plug for the 2/1 sensor is about 20″ above the lowest exhaust pipes. You cannot get your hand up in there or hand with a pair of pliers. I almost gave up on that sensor until I called the Jeep Dealer and they quoted me 2 hours of labor $250 to change that one O2 sensor. That gave me motivation to try again and I was successful.
[quote=”stiv625″ post=118066]Wow, the O2 sensor connectors are pretty easy and straight forward to get to on that same motor in my ’04 GC. Guess ill stick with my WJs as long as I can.[/quote]
Yes. The bear on the WK 4.7L engine is that the plug for the 2/1 sensor is about 20″ above the lowest exhaust pipes. You cannot get your hand up in there or hand with a pair of pliers. I almost gave up on that sensor until I called the Jeep Dealer and they quoted me 2 hours of labor $250 to change that one O2 sensor. That gave me motivation to try again and I was successful.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=116238]Cool. Good luck with the job and let us know how things work out for you.[/quote]
Was able to change the 2/1 O2 sensor. Ended up using three different tools – a 28″ snap on screwdriver, a 10 inch A-N Crescent connector plier A2910N with extensions, and a fabricated tool made out of 1/4 inch square steel rod that was 28″ long. To the end of the 28 inch square rod I taped a small steel L. It looked like a back scratcher.
I taped 1/4 inch square rod extensions to the Crescent wrench to get me reach. That allowed me to reach in and disconnect the electrical plug. I used the 28 inch screwdriver and 28 inch back scratcher together to guide and fit the new O2 sensor plug into the electrical system.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=116238]Cool. Good luck with the job and let us know how things work out for you.[/quote]
Was able to change the 2/1 O2 sensor. Ended up using three different tools – a 28″ snap on screwdriver, a 10 inch A-N Crescent connector plier A2910N with extensions, and a fabricated tool made out of 1/4 inch square steel rod that was 28″ long. To the end of the 28 inch square rod I taped a small steel L. It looked like a back scratcher.
I taped 1/4 inch square rod extensions to the Crescent wrench to get me reach. That allowed me to reach in and disconnect the electrical plug. I used the 28 inch screwdriver and 28 inch back scratcher together to guide and fit the new O2 sensor plug into the electrical system.
Well, I tried every inexpensive way to create a tool to reach this hard to reach O2 electrical connection.
Today I broke down and purchased a Snap-On 28″ long screwdriver with a narrow shaft and 1/4″ slotted tip – SGD424BR.
Based on everything I have tried and measurements I have taken, this tool looks like the best next step.
Well, I tried every inexpensive way to create a tool to reach this hard to reach O2 electrical connection.
Today I broke down and purchased a Snap-On 28″ long screwdriver with a narrow shaft and 1/4″ slotted tip – SGD424BR.
Based on everything I have tried and measurements I have taken, this tool looks like the best next step.
I had the following DTC codes. P0153 – O2 sensor 2/1 slow response, P0137 – O2 sensor 1/2 circuit low. Since both banks are affected, the sensors were $35, and I was under the vehicle for two I decide to do all four.
Thanks for the tool tip.
I had the following DTC codes. P0153 – O2 sensor 2/1 slow response, P0137 – O2 sensor 1/2 circuit low. Since both banks are affected, the sensors were $35, and I was under the vehicle for two I decide to do all four.
Thanks for the tool tip.
[quote=”no_common_sense” post=115931]I only shot a wild guess at you because the complaint fit my personal experiences. Now that I know what you’re working on, I know I can’t help you anymore. Hopefully, somebody else can chime in with a better idea.[/quote]
Thank you for your suggestion of the long screwdriver. Based on your input I decided to purchase 2 3ft lengths of 1/2″ square aluminum stock. My plan is to tape to each end the OTC 4460 tool. The bent forked end of the tool will allow me to support the bottom and back of the electrical connector and the regular forked end of the other tool will allow me to disconnect the electrical fitting. That is the plan. I won’t be able to execute it for a couple of weeks though.
I thought about two 28″ screwdrivers but this square aluminum bar solution is much lighter, only costs $10, and should work.
[quote=”no_common_sense” post=115931]I only shot a wild guess at you because the complaint fit my personal experiences. Now that I know what you’re working on, I know I can’t help you anymore. Hopefully, somebody else can chime in with a better idea.[/quote]
Thank you for your suggestion of the long screwdriver. Based on your input I decided to purchase 2 3ft lengths of 1/2″ square aluminum stock. My plan is to tape to each end the OTC 4460 tool. The bent forked end of the tool will allow me to support the bottom and back of the electrical connector and the regular forked end of the other tool will allow me to disconnect the electrical fitting. That is the plan. I won’t be able to execute it for a couple of weeks though.
I thought about two 28″ screwdrivers but this square aluminum bar solution is much lighter, only costs $10, and should work.
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo; 4.7L V8 is the make and model. It is the Bank Two number 1 sensor that I am having difficulty reaching/releasing the sensor. I did have a long screwdriver attempt but that did not work. If that is the tool of choice maybe I could use a slightly longer blade?
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo; 4.7L V8 is the make and model. It is the Bank Two number 1 sensor that I am having difficulty reaching/releasing the sensor. I did have a long screwdriver attempt but that did not work. If that is the tool of choice maybe I could use a slightly longer blade?
Regarding driving the car until the problem is more pronounced. It depends. What you do not want to do is continue with a problem that may require another catalytic converter replacement $$$.
Did anyone check the functional performance of your upstream O2 sensor, your long term and short term fuel trims at idle and while increasing rpms, and for any misfires(although misfires should throw a check engine light)?
The reason I ask is that these are easy checks and you do not want misfires or too rich a fuel mixture running through your engine. That will cause premature wear of the catalytic converter.
One free and fairly fast way to get these readings is to go to an Autozone and see if they can hook up a scanner to your vehicle and tell you if the upstream O2 sensor is working correctly, whether or not there are any misfires, and if there is anything wrong with your long term and short term fuel trims. (Do not buy anything based on a recommendation from an Autozone employee until you double check the reason for the purchase with an independent third party. These employees are helpful but also in the business of selling parts). Another option, you could also call Mechanic #2 on the telephone and ask him since he replaced the O2 sensors.
If the upstream o2 sensor is working correctly, there are no misfires, and the long term and short term fuel trims are normal there is less risk that you will prematurely wear out your new catalytic converters.
Also, how clean is your air filter? If it is very dirty upon visual inspection stop by Walmart, pick up, and install a new one. A really dirty $15 air filter can cause a rich fuel mix condition and rough idle. Simple, I know.