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Update, got it back from the shop i trust and steering issue is gone. To answer the previous response, yes it had gotten to the point where simply jerking the wheel back and forth would shift the axis. All the shop did was install new sway bar bushings and tighten the steering rack to spec. I imagine the steering rack bolts were the cause. Good there, now, when i drove it down the highway today the converter was locking and unlocking repeatedly under consistent throttle and load. Before the rebuild, it never locked up at all and always had a solenoid trouble code. The flashing ‘o/d off’ light is gone now (haven’t had a chance to scan it yet) but the converter lock up has me worried. I honestly don’t feel confident bringing it back to the shop that did the tranny work, but if it’s something they didn’t do right, I guess i kinda have to. Work was backed by a nationwide “certified auto repair” warranty. Also I drove the car for about 150miles since the rebuild before today and lockup worked like a charm. One thing fixed and another comes back. Any ideas? Thanks
I would also look at the AC system first as it only acts up when that is on. my first thought was perhaps something is causing resistance in the compressor and making it hard for the engine to compensate for the increased drag. my next thought is perhaps the AC idle-up valve isn’t working properly, it’s supposed to increase engine idle rpms to account for the increased load of the AC system being on. This in itself isn’t likely to cause rough running and stalling, but on an engine with such little torque (especially at idle) it could highlight a vacuum leak or bad sensor causing a lack of power under load. I’m no expert so these are just suggestions of things to consider.
I would also look at the AC system first as it only acts up when that is on. my first thought was perhaps something is causing resistance in the compressor and making it hard for the engine to compensate for the increased drag. my next thought is perhaps the AC idle-up valve isn’t working properly, it’s supposed to increase engine idle rpms to account for the increased load of the AC system being on. This in itself isn’t likely to cause rough running and stalling, but on an engine with such little torque (especially at idle) it could highlight a vacuum leak or bad sensor causing a lack of power under load. I’m no expert so these are just suggestions of things to consider.
Just took it to a reputable mechanic and was told the “num.3 valve compressor” was burned. was only getting 75pounds (this is what my gf told me; I assume they’re referring to the cylinder compression pressure) and was quoted $1100….this is what I was afraid of as I wasn’t able to do a compression test yet. Does that all sound right? Thanks
Also, IYO is it worth it to repair? before this, the car was running/driving/shifting strongly/smoothly. has 172k on it, clean trans fluid, just did timing belt w/p change. With gas costing what it does (ALOT) a 30+mpg car is perfect and the car fits her needs perfectly. A valve change/repair would involve a new head gasket right? In which case the possibility of that going out soon would be eliminated. She’s devastated right now, I am hoping I can help somehow as she’s also been saving for a move soon (was the plan) Thank you very much for the advice and help! 🙂Just took it to a reputable mechanic and was told the “num.3 valve compressor” was burned. was only getting 75pounds (this is what my gf told me; I assume they’re referring to the cylinder compression pressure) and was quoted $1100….this is what I was afraid of as I wasn’t able to do a compression test yet. Does that all sound right? Thanks
Also, IYO is it worth it to repair? before this, the car was running/driving/shifting strongly/smoothly. has 172k on it, clean trans fluid, just did timing belt w/p change. With gas costing what it does (ALOT) a 30+mpg car is perfect and the car fits her needs perfectly. A valve change/repair would involve a new head gasket right? In which case the possibility of that going out soon would be eliminated. She’s devastated right now, I am hoping I can help somehow as she’s also been saving for a move soon (was the plan) Thank you very much for the advice and help! 🙂not yet, but I understand that if it’s high, that’s definitely a plausible cause of a continuously rich mixture. The only thing on the o2s is I just realized the computer is holding a DTC26 (continuously rich mixture) which I would think if the exhaust leak is causing the o2s to think the mixture is lean (thus enrich the mixture), that it wouldn’t throw a code saying that it’s too rich… unless the exhaust leak has gotten worse since the code was thrown. I’ll try to get the new exhaust gasket in and new o2s in and go from there. Thanks for the help. It’s MUCH appreciated as this is a daily driver.
not yet, but I understand that if it’s high, that’s definitely a plausible cause of a continuously rich mixture. The only thing on the o2s is I just realized the computer is holding a DTC26 (continuously rich mixture) which I would think if the exhaust leak is causing the o2s to think the mixture is lean (thus enrich the mixture), that it wouldn’t throw a code saying that it’s too rich… unless the exhaust leak has gotten worse since the code was thrown. I’ll try to get the new exhaust gasket in and new o2s in and go from there. Thanks for the help. It’s MUCH appreciated as this is a daily driver.
Tested coil primary and secondary resistance and both fell within specs. Here’s another thing I didn’t think about. The car has a couple of exhaust leaks, the worst of which (judging by where the most smoke came out when we sea-foamed it) Is around the exhaust manifold-cylinder head gasket. Could this leak directly upstream of the o2 sensor cause a false lean reading, thus require the ecu to run a richer fuel map? The leak is pretty bad. Also, would unplugging the sensor and running it for a while hurt anything? would that help isolate the o2s as the problem area? Thanks for the info.
Tested coil primary and secondary resistance and both fell within specs. Here’s another thing I didn’t think about. The car has a couple of exhaust leaks, the worst of which (judging by where the most smoke came out when we sea-foamed it) Is around the exhaust manifold-cylinder head gasket. Could this leak directly upstream of the o2 sensor cause a false lean reading, thus require the ecu to run a richer fuel map? The leak is pretty bad. Also, would unplugging the sensor and running it for a while hurt anything? would that help isolate the o2s as the problem area? Thanks for the info.
Warmed up engine, ran for 1200rpm+ for 2+mins, then checked o2 sensor output, it’s a 2-wire sensor and wasn’t sure which was which, one wire gave basically no reading, the other gave a reading of around 0.85v fluctuation with any change in throttle and would sometimes drop to as low as 0.62v. The specs show that it should fluctuate between 0.4 & 0.6v. Is this a bad sensor?
Warmed up engine, ran for 1200rpm+ for 2+mins, then checked o2 sensor output, it’s a 2-wire sensor and wasn’t sure which was which, one wire gave basically no reading, the other gave a reading of around 0.85v fluctuation with any change in throttle and would sometimes drop to as low as 0.62v. The specs show that it should fluctuate between 0.4 & 0.6v. Is this a bad sensor?
Recent updated info (ECT sensor checked (~10mins after killing engine on a HOT day=fully warmed up) ~321oms and rising slowly (which according to chart in manual is within specs.
Just checked MAP sensor and voltage to sensor in spec and replaced a section of the vacuum hose connectors (hard plastic vacuum line, connected to nipples at both ends with a section of vacuum hose) with new hose as the one on there was cracked.Recent updated info (ECT sensor checked (~10mins after killing engine on a HOT day=fully warmed up) ~321oms and rising slowly (which according to chart in manual is within specs.
Just checked MAP sensor and voltage to sensor in spec and replaced a section of the vacuum hose connectors (hard plastic vacuum line, connected to nipples at both ends with a section of vacuum hose) with new hose as the one on there was cracked.Clamped off the brake booster, noticed one of two nipples is broken off of (what i believe is) the “TVV for EVAP” as per label in vacuum diagram, the other nipple has a hose going to the top of the the charcoal canister (which is where one of the TVV hoses goes, the other goes to the TB area which just happens to have an open vacuum tube…hmm)
Clamped off the brake booster, noticed one of two nipples is broken off of (what i believe is) the “TVV for EVAP” as per label in vacuum diagram, the other nipple has a hose going to the top of the the charcoal canister (which is where one of the TVV hoses goes, the other goes to the TB area which just happens to have an open vacuum tube…hmm)