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Hey again forum,
It’s taken a while to actually get time to work this truck, limited by a number of things. figured I would give an update on this money pit of a truck, mostly because the problem is fixed but now there is a new problem.
Originally, the car had gone unused for a few weeks and the battery had gone dead beyond a point of being jumpable. (could get truck jumped but would not survive on its own power for more than a minute or two, which I’m sure wasn’t helped by the midwest winter (10F and below)) Anywho, battery was replaced, and fuse was replaced, and the truck will start and stay started (at least more so than previously)
However, after getting it started, the dash cluster would not flinch. Lights on the cluster are A-Okay, but the needles will not move. Come to find that the “Meter” fuse is blown… (Instrument panel fuse for speedo, tach, and what have you)So, replace the fuse, give it another go, fuse blows again.
By this point I have ripped apart most of the dash and pulled off the instrument panel to check for any blown circuitry, of which I found none. Gone to the point of trying to find a place where the wires may have shorted and burned a bit, but considering how tightly packed dashboard wiring is, it is proving to be difficult at best. Local shops want somewhere in the realm of 75-80 bucks an hour in labor just to “attempt” to find this problem just as I am. Again with lacking automotive skill set, ripping out the entire dash is a bit daunting.
“The 100a fuse should have protected the circuit. I’m in the camp of checking the battery first.” -ETCG
I would think so as well, but it seems enough juice got somewhere inside and found a way to make a nice burn into some wiring. If i remember correctly, when diagnosing the no electrics condition, the “meter” fuse I mentioned above was fine and blew sometime between attempting to jump the truck on the old battery and starting it with the new one. No new smells, just that blown fuse.
I’ll keep updated with anything new when I can.
EDIT: Quick note on the reverse polarity issue. It is possible the battery was hooked up wrong, but somewhat unlikely. The truck is my Step-dad’s and he was the one to jump it so especially coming from somebody who got the story of the first jumping secondhand and only witnessed the aftermath, it is hard to say for certain exactly what went down.
Is there any possibility of a voltage backlash if the negative were to be hooked up first, and the positive second?
Hey again forum,
It’s taken a while to actually get time to work this truck, limited by a number of things. figured I would give an update on this money pit of a truck, mostly because the problem is fixed but now there is a new problem.
Originally, the car had gone unused for a few weeks and the battery had gone dead beyond a point of being jumpable. (could get truck jumped but would not survive on its own power for more than a minute or two, which I’m sure wasn’t helped by the midwest winter (10F and below)) Anywho, battery was replaced, and fuse was replaced, and the truck will start and stay started (at least more so than previously)
However, after getting it started, the dash cluster would not flinch. Lights on the cluster are A-Okay, but the needles will not move. Come to find that the “Meter” fuse is blown… (Instrument panel fuse for speedo, tach, and what have you)So, replace the fuse, give it another go, fuse blows again.
By this point I have ripped apart most of the dash and pulled off the instrument panel to check for any blown circuitry, of which I found none. Gone to the point of trying to find a place where the wires may have shorted and burned a bit, but considering how tightly packed dashboard wiring is, it is proving to be difficult at best. Local shops want somewhere in the realm of 75-80 bucks an hour in labor just to “attempt” to find this problem just as I am. Again with lacking automotive skill set, ripping out the entire dash is a bit daunting.
“The 100a fuse should have protected the circuit. I’m in the camp of checking the battery first.” -ETCG
I would think so as well, but it seems enough juice got somewhere inside and found a way to make a nice burn into some wiring. If i remember correctly, when diagnosing the no electrics condition, the “meter” fuse I mentioned above was fine and blew sometime between attempting to jump the truck on the old battery and starting it with the new one. No new smells, just that blown fuse.
I’ll keep updated with anything new when I can.
EDIT: Quick note on the reverse polarity issue. It is possible the battery was hooked up wrong, but somewhat unlikely. The truck is my Step-dad’s and he was the one to jump it so especially coming from somebody who got the story of the first jumping secondhand and only witnessed the aftermath, it is hard to say for certain exactly what went down.
Is there any possibility of a voltage backlash if the negative were to be hooked up first, and the positive second?
Thank you Wrench Turner. Although Much of this is things outside of my knowledge of doing (and/or time and tool limited for doing), it most definitely give me a starting place for at least trying to figure out what the problem is, or at least the point of origin. Unfortunately due to financial circumstances (and the fact that the passport is so bad off that it is literally just worth value of the metal it is made from, it just isn’t all that worth taking it to a shop to pay for diagnosis and the man hours and parts; it is just not worth the money, especially after 2 engine swaps, an ongoing suspension issue from rust/age, and 13 years of abuse from a man that has a very heavy foot and probably has slammed it around more than a teenage girl’s bedroom door.
Fingers crossed that it is just a completely dead battery and not something bigger. Again, I appreciate the time you took to write all that up, and I will give an update if I can figure out what the problem is.
Thank you Wrench Turner. Although Much of this is things outside of my knowledge of doing (and/or time and tool limited for doing), it most definitely give me a starting place for at least trying to figure out what the problem is, or at least the point of origin. Unfortunately due to financial circumstances (and the fact that the passport is so bad off that it is literally just worth value of the metal it is made from, it just isn’t all that worth taking it to a shop to pay for diagnosis and the man hours and parts; it is just not worth the money, especially after 2 engine swaps, an ongoing suspension issue from rust/age, and 13 years of abuse from a man that has a very heavy foot and probably has slammed it around more than a teenage girl’s bedroom door.
Fingers crossed that it is just a completely dead battery and not something bigger. Again, I appreciate the time you took to write all that up, and I will give an update if I can figure out what the problem is.