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when it comes to broken or rounded bolts, cutting and bending metal… let’s not play around here: use a stick or mig welder a tack a big chunk of metal to that drain plug and wrench that mother off. the idea is loosely based on these ideas:
videos:
then go down to autozone and get a brand new drain plug for $4:
You mentioned you’d like to try adding heat… here is one video by mr. car guy:
A stuck drain plug should only take 2 to 5 minutes to get that drain plug out; not that difficult if you have the right tools.
They all seem like good ideas and I wish I had the money for any of those tools
Take it down to the local machine shop and they’d probably do it for cheap… they might even do it for free (what’s 5 minutes of labor cost?) Or, take it down to the local community college with an automotive program. Talk to the program director and he’ll probably have one of his students do it for you. My college actually took in cars off the street for repair as part of our academic curriculum, so it does happen.
since your problem involves the brake pedal and not an individual brake, I would work from the brake booster back towards the pedal to isolate the cause of the problem.
i would first check the brake booster. it has a check-valve that is prone to failure. additionally, you should check for vacuum leaks around the brake booster. Lastly, you should take a vacuum measurement at the booster; it should be around -18mg” at engine idle.
if you found the problem, then stop here. if not, examine the master cylinder for some type of unusual failure.
also, look up around the brake pedal itself for obvious problems or debris limiting pedal travel.
since your problem involves the brake pedal and not an individual brake, I would work from the brake booster back towards the pedal to isolate the cause of the problem.
i would first check the brake booster. it has a check-valve that is prone to failure. additionally, you should check for vacuum leaks around the brake booster. Lastly, you should take a vacuum measurement at the booster; it should be around -18mg” at engine idle.
if you found the problem, then stop here. if not, examine the master cylinder for some type of unusual failure.
also, look up around the brake pedal itself for obvious problems or debris limiting pedal travel.
Here are a few suggestions:
- you could tack-weld a screw driver or something to the bolt, making a big handle in which ye’ could turn the bolt out.
- apply heat with an oxy/acetylene torch.
- you could use a die grinder to cut a slit down the center of the bolt, then use a screw driver to turn out the bolt.
- use a die grinder to cut out two sides of the bolt, leaving a nice middle piece in which to clamp with vice grips.
- use an air hammer and lay right down on that bolt to get it loose, then use a pointed bit to try to ‘spin’ the bolt out.
- drop the pan and try to drill out the bolt. you obviously don’t want to drill with the pan still attached because you will get metal shaving into ye’ engine. Eric has a nice video on how to drill out bolts.
- drop the pan and replace it with a new pan and drain plug and new gasket.
There are probably even more ways to approach this. A lot of how you proceed will depend on your weapons of choice (tools available to you) and just your own personal preferences.
[edit:]
as an after thought, i think it’d make a pretty good video to demonstrate each one of these methods.Here are a few suggestions:
- you could tack-weld a screw driver or something to the bolt, making a big handle in which ye’ could turn the bolt out.
- apply heat with an oxy/acetylene torch.
- you could use a die grinder to cut a slit down the center of the bolt, then use a screw driver to turn out the bolt.
- use a die grinder to cut out two sides of the bolt, leaving a nice middle piece in which to clamp with vice grips.
- use an air hammer and lay right down on that bolt to get it loose, then use a pointed bit to try to ‘spin’ the bolt out.
- drop the pan and try to drill out the bolt. you obviously don’t want to drill with the pan still attached because you will get metal shaving into ye’ engine. Eric has a nice video on how to drill out bolts.
- drop the pan and replace it with a new pan and drain plug and new gasket.
There are probably even more ways to approach this. A lot of how you proceed will depend on your weapons of choice (tools available to you) and just your own personal preferences.
[edit:]
as an after thought, i think it’d make a pretty good video to demonstrate each one of these methods.just based on my own experience, i know exactly what you are going through. I think the best way to go about it is with maybe a torch and an air hammer to loosen things up… and then a big pneumatic impact… something that can deliver a huge amount of torque. Some ingersoll rand impacts can deliver 1,000 ft/lbs of torque, but maybe something with like 700 ft/lbs could get the job done.
now’s not the time to sissy around: at the end of the day you need a big impact, a big air compressor, and an impact socket.
Now is the time to use the right tools for the right job.
just based on my own experience, i know exactly what you are going through. I think the best way to go about it is with maybe a torch and an air hammer to loosen things up… and then a big pneumatic impact… something that can deliver a huge amount of torque. Some ingersoll rand impacts can deliver 1,000 ft/lbs of torque, but maybe something with like 700 ft/lbs could get the job done.
now’s not the time to sissy around: at the end of the day you need a big impact, a big air compressor, and an impact socket.
Now is the time to use the right tools for the right job.
It’s been awhile since school, but I’ll give it a shot….
I believe an open in one of the winding’s would knock out one phase out of the 3 phase output.
It’s been awhile since school, but I’ll give it a shot….
I believe an open in one of the winding’s would knock out one phase out of the 3 phase output.
Is Billy Kilmer related to Scotty Kilmer?
(ya’ll like how I just brought convo back to automotive B) )
Is Billy Kilmer related to Scotty Kilmer?
(ya’ll like how I just brought convo back to automotive B) )
Your torque converter is toast. Don’t worry about flushing it and hope if fixes the problem, because it won’t. Luckily, you have an easy fix, and a somewhat more labor intensive fix. Here are your options:
- Disable the TCC so it will never lock up. This will eliminate your driveability problem; however, it will cost you about 10% loss in fuel economy.
- Drop the transmission and replace the torque converter. Get one from your local junk yard to save mad amounts of cash. There is nothing tricky about this repair, it’s just a matter of turning some wrenches… but it is a heavy transmission and would probably require help. Some of the bolts on the bell housing are hard to get to.
Your torque converter is toast. Don’t worry about flushing it and hope if fixes the problem, because it won’t. Luckily, you have an easy fix, and a somewhat more labor intensive fix. Here are your options:
- Disable the TCC so it will never lock up. This will eliminate your driveability problem; however, it will cost you about 10% loss in fuel economy.
- Drop the transmission and replace the torque converter. Get one from your local junk yard to save mad amounts of cash. There is nothing tricky about this repair, it’s just a matter of turning some wrenches… but it is a heavy transmission and would probably require help. Some of the bolts on the bell housing are hard to get to.
