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I vote for the suggested leak-down test. Early diagnosis of why cylinder #3 is losing compression might save you money in the long run.
Maybe you just need a valve adjustment.. or a valve guide seal, burnt valve, valve spring, blocked oil passage, or maybe early signs of a head gasket failure.. or maybe it’s rings.. or EGR…. or a PCV problem.. or cylinder out-of round.
Q: Has this engine ever overheated? I wonder if you could give us a little history here (collision(s), auto-racing, nitro upgrade, teenage driver, flood damage, etc.)
Since you don’t have an air compressor, I’d take it down to the shop and spend a couple of bucks and have a mechanic perform the leak-down for ye’. Having someone else corroborate your findings will also increase the validity your rest results. Furthermore, I wouldn’t even let the technician know what cylinder you suspect is at fault… let him come to you with his findings. An opinion from Eric the Honda Guru might also prove useful here.
While you’re in the shop, an additional test you could ask for could be a relative compression test.
You have the advantage of your pro-active and early diagnostic.. I’d hate for you waste this opportunity to get ahead of something before it gets worse.
I vote for the suggested leak-down test. Early diagnosis of why cylinder #3 is losing compression might save you money in the long run.
Maybe you just need a valve adjustment.. or a valve guide seal, burnt valve, valve spring, blocked oil passage, or maybe early signs of a head gasket failure.. or maybe it’s rings.. or EGR…. or a PCV problem.. or cylinder out-of round.
Q: Has this engine ever overheated? I wonder if you could give us a little history here (collision(s), auto-racing, nitro upgrade, teenage driver, flood damage, etc.)
Since you don’t have an air compressor, I’d take it down to the shop and spend a couple of bucks and have a mechanic perform the leak-down for ye’. Having someone else corroborate your findings will also increase the validity your rest results. Furthermore, I wouldn’t even let the technician know what cylinder you suspect is at fault… let him come to you with his findings. An opinion from Eric the Honda Guru might also prove useful here.
While you’re in the shop, an additional test you could ask for could be a relative compression test.
You have the advantage of your pro-active and early diagnostic.. I’d hate for you waste this opportunity to get ahead of something before it gets worse.
I wonder what was the root cause of this failure…
Possibly unwanted resistance in a high-amperage circuit..?
Furthermore, why only this connection affected? Perhaps surrounding connections could also be compromised (possibly due to environmental exposure?) but do not exhibit the aforementioned failure because of low current draw. I believe in the cases, it would be more likely that the affected circuit would demonstrate an ‘open’ as opposed to a current deficiency (not enough juice to burn stuff.)
Q: what type of wire repair are you planning… will soldering be an option?
I think one possibility could be to terminate the wire with a new connector and install the connector into a free and undamaged adjacent space in the fuse box.
I wonder what was the root cause of this failure…
Possibly unwanted resistance in a high-amperage circuit..?
Furthermore, why only this connection affected? Perhaps surrounding connections could also be compromised (possibly due to environmental exposure?) but do not exhibit the aforementioned failure because of low current draw. I believe in the cases, it would be more likely that the affected circuit would demonstrate an ‘open’ as opposed to a current deficiency (not enough juice to burn stuff.)
Q: what type of wire repair are you planning… will soldering be an option?
I think one possibility could be to terminate the wire with a new connector and install the connector into a free and undamaged adjacent space in the fuse box.
Your crank/no-start will fit into at least 1 of the 3 following categories:
1. poor/weak/non-existent spark.
2. air/fuel delivery issue.
3. mechanical/compression.
Now it’s time to do some testing, ruling things out, or if you get lucky, identify the problem right away. So, when it comes to investigative issues of this nature, I like to do as much of the easy stuff as I can first… so I suggest:
- check battery (load test at autozone)
- Pull OBDII codes (can be done at autozone)
- check spark using a spark tester
- listen for your fuel pump running
- check fuel pressure (tool rental from autozone)
- check the air filter
- test for exhaust/CAT restrictions
- try a jumpstart
watch eric’s videos on crank/no-start diagnosis:
Im thinking its the crank shaft sensor
If this is the case, it will throw a OBDII code, CEL (Check Engine Light)
At this point, it’s important not to get tunnel vision: approach this with good diagnostic testing. Rule out the easy stuff first. Doing so will help you categorize the nature of your crank/no-start.
Your crank/no-start will fit into at least 1 of the 3 following categories:
1. poor/weak/non-existent spark.
2. air/fuel delivery issue.
3. mechanical/compression.
Now it’s time to do some testing, ruling things out, or if you get lucky, identify the problem right away. So, when it comes to investigative issues of this nature, I like to do as much of the easy stuff as I can first… so I suggest:
- check battery (load test at autozone)
- Pull OBDII codes (can be done at autozone)
- check spark using a spark tester
- listen for your fuel pump running
- check fuel pressure (tool rental from autozone)
- check the air filter
- test for exhaust/CAT restrictions
- try a jumpstart
watch eric’s videos on crank/no-start diagnosis:
Im thinking its the crank shaft sensor
If this is the case, it will throw a OBDII code, CEL (Check Engine Light)
At this point, it’s important not to get tunnel vision: approach this with good diagnostic testing. Rule out the easy stuff first. Doing so will help you categorize the nature of your crank/no-start.
Here is kinda an off the wall question.. but this is a situation i’ve never encountered…
Q: could the piston be machined or repaired as it is, in car while the head is off?
precision welding could be tricky.. any slag would cause problems. Maybe a guard could be fitted between the piston and the cylinder. Then maybe create a light build-up with a TIG welder (MIG would be too violent) then grind the build-up to match the piston surface. This type of automotive surgery of course would require a very experienced and well qualified welder whose services would probably cost $$$. Also, I’m not sure if a weld will hold inside of a combustion chamber.
I only ask this question cause i’ve seen a youtube video of a guy who repaired a cracked block and the engine looked good as new.
perhaps if any repairs could be made to this piston, it’d be better made off of the vehicle, at which point replacing the piston would be a better option.
I believe the damage is more cosmetic than functional anyway.
Here is kinda an off the wall question.. but this is a situation i’ve never encountered…
Q: could the piston be machined or repaired as it is, in car while the head is off?
precision welding could be tricky.. any slag would cause problems. Maybe a guard could be fitted between the piston and the cylinder. Then maybe create a light build-up with a TIG welder (MIG would be too violent) then grind the build-up to match the piston surface. This type of automotive surgery of course would require a very experienced and well qualified welder whose services would probably cost $$$. Also, I’m not sure if a weld will hold inside of a combustion chamber.
I only ask this question cause i’ve seen a youtube video of a guy who repaired a cracked block and the engine looked good as new.
perhaps if any repairs could be made to this piston, it’d be better made off of the vehicle, at which point replacing the piston would be a better option.
I believe the damage is more cosmetic than functional anyway.
it is been experiencing a very rough idle,
backfire with flame coming out of the throttle body
bad timing.
Setting timing for each specific engine is different; you must refer to the appropriate procedure for setting ‘base timing’ for that particular engine. There may be other factors at work here, such as a loose and/or skipped timing chain which you would be eligible for with an older high mileage vehicle.
A chilton or haynes manual would be good here.
it is been experiencing a very rough idle,
backfire with flame coming out of the throttle body
bad timing.
Setting timing for each specific engine is different; you must refer to the appropriate procedure for setting ‘base timing’ for that particular engine. There may be other factors at work here, such as a loose and/or skipped timing chain which you would be eligible for with an older high mileage vehicle.
A chilton or haynes manual would be good here.
does anyone know if there is a way to observe the fuel injector spray pattern/quality on this engine..?
does anyone know if there is a way to observe the fuel injector spray pattern/quality on this engine..?
