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Sweet. So what is the bleed order? Does have ABS gravity bleed didn’t seem to help anything. Have never dealt with whole system bleed with ABS brake light is coming.
Ended up using a 6 pt socket on the bleeder valves and they broke free. Was asking if I would be able to bleed from the actual line instead of the bleeder valve but discovered it was not an option since the fitting was rusted to the line (like in the Town and Country van video).
Got the line removed. Hate to say it but don’t wonna mess with it gonna buy the parts and pay a guy with the right tools to fabricate a new one then just reinstall and bleed the system myself.. Looks like I maybe replacing the rest very soon.
Well tested it w/o belts and it spun freely. At this point in time my help arrived to assist in putting on the belt. Don’t know if it was just slightly off in one of the crowded spots but seems to be working fine now. Will (hopefully) be taking her on a test run tomorrow to Fairfield to sign job papers:D
That is my main fear. Gotta take the battery back (once again) and have it checked. Thinking about possibly attempting to start the car w/o the ac belt (alternator is ran off its own belt) to see if the pulley locks up while the car is on to diagnose bad clutch or locked up compressor.
Pulley will not turn with the car on but will spin with the belt off. Had it set to max when I turned the car on. Currently have the belt off again.
Highly agree. On these newer cars I myself have been stranded along side the highway all over a battery that went bad while driving and have seen others in the same spot as well. Now I will say having a background in industrial electrical systems once you get to know how everything works tracking down most issues becomes easier and easier as long as you have a diagram but there will always be that wild card. My only undiagnosed electrical issue is on a 92′ C1500 ended up having to leave it go (my first pickup!).
Essentially the cut out is on a plate that is cut out and bolted on before pressing the bearing. Notch is on the upper LEFT side and not the RIGHT side by were caliber goes (were it should be). Gonna remove the whole knuckle and see if we can’t just cut a notch in to give the new stud just enough room.
Essentially the cut out is on a plate that is cut out and bolted on before pressing the bearing. Notch is on the upper LEFT side and not the RIGHT side by were caliber goes (were it should be). Gonna remove the whole knuckle and see if we can’t just cut a notch in to give the new stud just enough room.
Have seen those around but have not really been attractive for chromes but can see it for my impacts. Do they lock in or just pretty much rest on the bar? Would like to have something that locks in but can live w/o that if needed. My set right now is pretty much in all directions bought an original set but after getting my Neon found myself buying special sizes in both short and deep throat.
Have seen those around but have not really been attractive for chromes but can see it for my impacts. Do they lock in or just pretty much rest on the bar? Would like to have something that locks in but can live w/o that if needed. My set right now is pretty much in all directions bought an original set but after getting my Neon found myself buying special sizes in both short and deep throat.
So then essentially I can use a old or remanufactored computer and have someone set it to my car? By the way Chrysler made it sound all the numbers in the computer were in there for good and could not be used due to VIN, emissions, etc and if I did use a used computer it could damage the car more than helping it.
So then essentially I can use a old or remanufactored computer and have someone set it to my car? By the way Chrysler made it sound all the numbers in the computer were in there for good and could not be used due to VIN, emissions, etc and if I did use a used computer it could damage the car more than helping it.
Aright dealership said it needs a brand new computer and that no used computers would work. Call Chrysler and they confirmed it. Essentially what I’m being told is its all HARD CODE so no resets? Can any one second this if I don’t find a way around this she’s being parted.
Aright dealership said it needs a brand new computer and that no used computers would work. Call Chrysler and they confirmed it. Essentially what I’m being told is its all HARD CODE so no resets? Can any one second this if I don’t find a way around this she’s being parted.
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