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[quote=”Timothy S” post=165175]If you have the money, go for it. Replacing the hose now may save some work later. Just inspect it to make sure it hasn’t already been replaced.[/quote]
I have owned the vehicle for the last 11 years so I doubt it was replaced.
[quote=”Hockeyclark” post=165176]+1 on the replacement of the power steering hose. Plus if it blows and you run out of fluid you will need another PS pump.[/quote]
Yeah, its not a repair I will probably want to revisit either.
Thanks. I figured as much.
Since the high pressure hose is a pattern failure for this vehicle, would it be best to replace the hose as well when doing the pump?
Click has returned and is louder than ever. Can it be the anti-rattle clips are too loose? The pads seem to slop around in the callipers quite a bit. Can the clips be shimmed up?
I actually attempted to use an impact wrench on it but it went nowhere. Only the breaker bar could do it. New nut went in fine with the impact.
After rotating the tires (back to front), the shaking has greatly diminished particularly in the steering wheel so I suspect that at least one of the former front wheels was more unbalanced than either of the rears. Its good enough for me to not worry about new tires until next year (likely another 5k miles). Braking at speed still causes vibrations so I’ll check the rotors during the summer. Can the front/rear rotors be swapped on a TL?
Thanks for all the replies. I think I’ll start with an inspection and rotation and then take it from there. I’ll look around for some Michelins as Eric recommends. If after all this I’m still getting vibration on braking, I’ll have the rotors checked and, if necessary, replace with slotted, again as Eric recommends. I doubt the bearings because the car has 96K on it and there is no play or growling and road noise does not diminish when turning left or right.
FOUND IT!!!
Its the overflow hose. When under pressure, a **TINY** leak starts to form. It drips maybe once every ten seconds down onto a lower cross beam (hence no driveway spillage). It also blows back onto the serpentine belt if the radiator fans are on. It all stops a minute or so after the engine is turned off.
The intake gasket was replaced at about 100000km under warranty. I believe they replaced it with a metal gasket. The engine doesn’t miss but has a slightly rough idle that I put down to a dirty MAS.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=148866]Honestly, I think it’s normal. A 50/50 mix is just that, antifreeze and water. The water WILL evaporate and cause the reservoir to get low. I usually top them off every oil change.
To find a leak, you can use this method as suggested if you don’t get any traction squeezing hoses.
More info on finding leaks here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/finding-and-fixing-leaks
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.[/quote]
I wouldn’t mind topping off every oil change but I would have thought a cup a week a bit steep. I know my reservoir is being used, however, as the level changes back and forth from cold to hot and the line is always wet inside so you could be right and the water is evap’ing through the reservoir. If that is the case, wouldn’t the remaining fluid continue to get more and more concentrated?
[quote=”joinaunion” post=148875]With it running and temperature is normal do you see a leak at water pump?[/quote]
No. Everything looks dry.
Thanks for the replies. I’ll look at the heater lines. Neat trick about the squeezing the hose to check for pressure. Its definitely a very small leak but I’d like to catch it before it goes big. Radiator cap is a Prestone. Seems to work but I’ll look for an OEM cap just to be sure. Coolant is still Dexcool 50/50.
Thanks. Just looking for some male confirmation… haha… It was amazing that the guy walked away as the truck was totalled in the roll. We have had several deer collisions where we live and it usually ends up with a broken headlight and a dead deer so I rarely bother myself as its just too dangerous in the dark with cars going along at 60mph or more but crunching metal is another thing. It took 2 squad cars to stop traffic and 2 tow trucks to get the vehicle out of the ditch. At one point one of the drivers of a passing car shouted at the tow truck driver for holding up traffic. I just don’t understand some people.
Two more things to add to your list.
Ignition switch. This had a recall in 1999 and the replacements still break.
Odometer backlight. This dims and dies. You need to replace a circuit board on the back of the cluster known as “Print Panel” part no. 78147-SOK-A01. I fixed mine by replacing the 2 D1947A transistors on the board. $2 vs $40+
BTW, the 1999 has the more robust 4 speed auto. I agree about the Bose stereo. Every TL I have seen from this era seems to have an aftermarket unit in it.
PS: One more item… engine mounts. I have seen a few TL owners complain about needing new engine mounts after about 150K miles.
Most likely. I still find connectors going to nowhere and lines spliced and sealed with electrical tape. I’m only keeping the car for sentimental reasons.
Success! Everything started right up with the new fuse. Purrs like a kitten. Not sure why the plugs were wet if the PGM-FI was out or why the fuse blew in the first place. What else does the fuse connect too? May have to recheck that relay module.This car was in a front end collision many years ago and was extensively rebuilt and some of the bugs are still working there way to the surface. Thanks for all the assistance cap269.