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[quote=”civvy” post=200833]This may be a long shot, but you didn’t mention whether or not the wheels had ever been balanced.
I imagine this would be done for any tire replacement (as you note the tires were replaced), however, I wouldn’t assume the wheels had been properly balanced.
You might consider taking the car to a shop specifically to get the wheel balance looked at.[/quote]
Yes. First thing I tried. A agree but they have been balanced around five times over the years, as tires were replaced, alignments done and front end work completed. Oddly enough when it does this, both tires shake simultaneously. Since it only happens occasionally I wonder if their is a slight vibration that has to sinc up and be at just the right speed to happen. It goes away when the speed changes. Our neighbor has a Civic that was damaged in Irma and sits in the yard. It doesn’t have OEM size tires either but they are a different size from ours. Possibly I should borrow the front ones and see if it stops. Might help rule out or confirm my theory that our low profile tires and larger wheels are the cause.
Replaced rotor and cap. Both were in good condition and were at least 17 years old! Nippon Denso- Good stuff! Still have the vibration. Iy happens at a steady 35-40mph and goes away with any change in speed, brakes or throttle. Where do I go from here?
Replaced the passenger side trans upper motor mount and will report back. Ordered Distributor cap and rotor and will do that next. Honestly did not know that these needed the cap and rotor replaced. Always had Subarus with the electronic ignition that never needed anything. Had the car 17 years and never changed it. Funny!
[quote=”codyj” post=199783]Only thing I can think of are wheel bearings or motor mounts.[/quote]
I do have a bad motor mount passenger side top. I already bought the replacement. I did replace the drivers side lower. I will be gone for a couple of weeks and will do the work when I get back.[quote=”Plasmide56″ post=199776]After a night of sleep, I think you might need to check exhaust gas leakage from the exhaust manifold down to the catalytic converter. Hot gas will expend your break fluid in your brake line and in your brake maker cylinder (the place you put you brake oil). If you have a exhaust leakage in the engine bay, you will have dust around the engine and oil smell coming from the engine while you drive It. You will also feel hot air coming from the leak when you pas your hand on It while the engine i running.[/quote]
That is interesting. I do have a leak in the converter. I plan to replace it soon. It just started to leak and it is a small leak. I can hear it. The shake has been going on for 14 years so probably not that. I will be replacing it though. I just recently replaced 90% the brake system and checked the rest. Tires are “all season”. No winter here in the Keys. Wife has lead foot so we have been through several different sets and the vibration stays the same. I ruled out springs and struts too because the car was 5 years old with 30,000 mi when we got it and it vibrated then.
Thanks. I feared having them break it and I am pretty sure that would happen. We are many hours from a boneyard too so I used a cut off disc and removed the flange nut that way. I swiped one of the flange nuts from the upper engine mount since they were off anyway and used it to install the lower mount. I replaced the upper one with one from a local hardware store and I will order the genuine replacement from online. It will be easier to replace it since it is up top.
I did try to order a full set of proper replacements overnight from Largo Honda in Homestead. They said that they have to order them and they do mot take deposits online. I would have to drive the 4 hours round trip to pay for them and then drive back again when they came in. Nice place eigh! Thanks to you all I have a working car again. I do appreciate the help greatly.I got it off and replaced the sensor. I am stalled by another problem though. I also have to replace the badlt worn out lower left motor mount. Easy since I had to remove it anyway to easily get to the sensor. I have a replacement but the pin (?) that connects the motor mount to the block is giving me a problem.The bolt is solidly stuck on to it. I removed the pin from the engine block along with the remains of the mount. I have soaked it for a couple of days with PB and trans fluid and acetone with no luck. I have it in a vise and am using new socket and 1/2″ bar with six foot cheater. I have hammered and all of the other tricks I have learned. I used an impact but not terribly powerful. I am rounding the flats on the nut. I think the pin will break soon. What would you guys do? Oh yes….I need to finish it up tomorrow.
OK. Got is off with 1/2″ drive and pipe sections like you said. Wife cranked it right off. Is the replacement of the pulley just the reverse? Torque around 130? Loctite? Now I can install the new sensor.
Here I am, getting started. I saw that this is often caused by the fan belt cutting the wires. My wife tends to drive over things and has damaged the plastic under the car and pulled that cable. It was fut. I tried splicing the cut wires then found that the sensor was still reading open so I am doing the job now.
My impact is not strong enough to shift it so I will have to do it with the wrench inside and a socket. Found that the engine mount is destroyed too so I got one. When I removed it I could not get the nut off the end so pulled the shaft too. Soaking it but will probably be getting the inner bolt too. Thats as far as I can go until I get another breaker bar and soak that nut loose or get the bolt.Thanks. Tried the vise yesterday after soaking with PB for a couple of days. No luck. Heated it up with a MAO gas torch and tried again without success. Finally gave up. My neighbor, who is a mechanic, used a brill press to drill out the bolt with a 11mm drill and I ordered a 12mm tap to see if we can clean out the original threads. Since I ordered it “overnight ” from Amazon Wednesday it may come Friday or Monday and I will try that. He says if that does not work we will drill it to 13mm and weld a 12mm nut to the top and use a longer bolt. I ordered those. No place left to get parts here on Big Pine Key since Irma so we order most things. I’ll let you know how that works out just in case anyone else has to do it.
I got an email saying that Karl had posted a reply. Thanks!. It does not appear here so I cut and pasted:
[i][i]If you are trying to remove the bolt. I suggest a press. HF sells a good one less than $200. But if not, take it to any mechanic shop with some beer money and I am sure they can push it out for you….
-Karl[/i][/i]
Thanks Karl. I believe I can even borrow a press. I can’t think how I would use a press to remove a threaded bolt stuck in a threaded fitting (both hardened steel.) Will it just brute force push the threads off allowing me to drill and tap in new ones? That would work if so. Could you go into a little more detail please?