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[quote=”Spikey” post=85410]Thank you for the useful post Raistian77, I have searched and found the tachometer driver but unfortunately its currently out of my budget (still a college student).
So it seems I ll live without one for a while but I at least learned a lot from this.@college man unfortunately my phone camera somehow decided to not store the photos I take, also… all the pictures I had taken by the camera and those that were in the phone memory have completely vanished and whenever I try to take a new picture, it does not store it at all. sigh…. mobiles are unreliable these days, I wonder when humans can create something stable once and for all.
Well I guess that sums it all up, life keeps pushing me to the edge, it’s just a matter of time before I start pushing back.
Thank you all for your help. I really appreciate it! :lol:[/quote]
No problem. Have run into that problem installing tachs for customers.
What gets me is this, most currently driven cars are late models that need the drivers, not sure why they dont build the circuitry right into the tachs.
[quote=”Spikey” post=85410]Thank you for the useful post Raistian77, I have searched and found the tachometer driver but unfortunately its currently out of my budget (still a college student).
So it seems I ll live without one for a while but I at least learned a lot from this.@college man unfortunately my phone camera somehow decided to not store the photos I take, also… all the pictures I had taken by the camera and those that were in the phone memory have completely vanished and whenever I try to take a new picture, it does not store it at all. sigh…. mobiles are unreliable these days, I wonder when humans can create something stable once and for all.
Well I guess that sums it all up, life keeps pushing me to the edge, it’s just a matter of time before I start pushing back.
Thank you all for your help. I really appreciate it! :lol:[/quote]
No problem. Have run into that problem installing tachs for customers.
What gets me is this, most currently driven cars are late models that need the drivers, not sure why they dont build the circuitry right into the tachs.
Guys, his hand controls pass within a few inches of the knee bolster.
You REALLY don’t want an airbag going off with shrapnel right in front of it.
BTW, I think his are the permanently designed units (the pic above is a portable unit) and they are setup really close to the bolster, if an airbag goes off right there it could drive the controls into him or jam up the accelerator.
edit
this is probably more like what he is getting installedGuys, his hand controls pass within a few inches of the knee bolster.
You REALLY don’t want an airbag going off with shrapnel right in front of it.
BTW, I think his are the permanently designed units (the pic above is a portable unit) and they are setup really close to the bolster, if an airbag goes off right there it could drive the controls into him or jam up the accelerator.
edit
this is probably more like what he is getting installedI am pretty positive you are going to need one of these
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/MSD-Distributorless-tachometer-driver/_/N-268l?itemIdentifier=438279_0_0_The tach you have is designed for a very old style ignition system using a single coil and distributor. To use analog tachs with coil pack systems you need a driver.
Ever wonder how you can install an aftermarket tachometer on a vehicle with no distributor and multiple coil packs? MSD has the answer with the distributorless tach driver! The compact tach driver measures only 1.5 In. x 3.5 In. x 2 In. and is potted with a polyurethane compound for vibration and water protection so it can easily be mounted under the hood. It wires inline on the coils’ 12 Volt supply wire where it senses the current going through this wire and converts this information into a 12 Volt output signal that most aftermarket tachometers use as a trigger signal. It can be used on 4, 6 or 8-cylinder engines.
From Autometer
We are getting more and more requests for tach signal wires and connection points on all kinds of new vehicles, and virtually every new vehicle has at least a DIS (distributorless ignition systems, or coil pack as it is more commonly referred to). The days of the “old distributor and coil” are gone, friends. This is a whole new ball of wax. The automotive industry appears to be shifting toward an even newer ignition system – C.O.P. This stands for coil on plug ignition system, which consists of attaching a coil atop each cylinder’s spark plug, eliminating any coil pack, distributor, or plug wires. The computer for the vehicle controls the targeting for firing the plug when needed, supplies the voltage to the coil to discharge, and has a “monitor” to ensure that the coil did fire and at the appropriate time.
Ok, now you’re asking your self, “What does this mean to me?” The answer: if you have a late model vehicle (most ’99 and newer models) with C.O.P. ignition, it has everything to do with you.
We have had much success installing tachometers on c.o.p. ignition systems on late model vehicles where no available tachometer output is available. There are still some vehicles out there that have a useable tachometer signal, but for those that do not, all is not lost. We offer a tachometer adapter, model # 9117 which is universal to allow most vehicles without a tachometer signal to have a tachometer installed. For the installation of the tachometer adapter, it will require locating the power supply to the ignition coils and cutting the power supply prior to the power splitting between all of the coils. The tachometer adapter will have an in (red) and an out (red/green) wire. Wire the adapter between the two cut halves of the power supply. Ground the black wire and the last wire (gray) is your new tachometer output.
This is relatively easy on most vehicles, but depending on how the system is wired, you may be able to isolate the power to only half the coils. Chrysler V-6 and V-8 engines with individual coil on plug ignitions can be much more difficult, and you should contact our tech support department before installation on one of these vehicles.
This leads us to the next point and question, “Why can’t I just splice into the wire(s) that goes to the tach in the cluster?” This sounds like a viable option, but the signal to the cluster tach is not the same signal as what our tach needs to see (12v square wave). This is commonly referred to as Multiplexing, which is the process of communicating several messages over the same signal path or wiring. In most cases, the wire that has the tach signal also has the signal for any of the following:
Tachometer
LOW FUEL level indicator
Speedometer
The standard gauges; oil, water, fuel level and volts
Odometer
Brake warning light
Seat belt
And so on…
As you can see, for this example ’99 Mustang there is a lot more than just the tach’s engine RPM signal going up to the cluster and our tach cannot derive the signal needed to operate, nor is it the correct signal. We have also found that the rate of refresh is very low, so it does not give as accurate readings as our tach needs to see.
I am pretty positive you are going to need one of these
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/MSD-Distributorless-tachometer-driver/_/N-268l?itemIdentifier=438279_0_0_The tach you have is designed for a very old style ignition system using a single coil and distributor. To use analog tachs with coil pack systems you need a driver.
Ever wonder how you can install an aftermarket tachometer on a vehicle with no distributor and multiple coil packs? MSD has the answer with the distributorless tach driver! The compact tach driver measures only 1.5 In. x 3.5 In. x 2 In. and is potted with a polyurethane compound for vibration and water protection so it can easily be mounted under the hood. It wires inline on the coils’ 12 Volt supply wire where it senses the current going through this wire and converts this information into a 12 Volt output signal that most aftermarket tachometers use as a trigger signal. It can be used on 4, 6 or 8-cylinder engines.
From Autometer
We are getting more and more requests for tach signal wires and connection points on all kinds of new vehicles, and virtually every new vehicle has at least a DIS (distributorless ignition systems, or coil pack as it is more commonly referred to). The days of the “old distributor and coil” are gone, friends. This is a whole new ball of wax. The automotive industry appears to be shifting toward an even newer ignition system – C.O.P. This stands for coil on plug ignition system, which consists of attaching a coil atop each cylinder’s spark plug, eliminating any coil pack, distributor, or plug wires. The computer for the vehicle controls the targeting for firing the plug when needed, supplies the voltage to the coil to discharge, and has a “monitor” to ensure that the coil did fire and at the appropriate time.
Ok, now you’re asking your self, “What does this mean to me?” The answer: if you have a late model vehicle (most ’99 and newer models) with C.O.P. ignition, it has everything to do with you.
We have had much success installing tachometers on c.o.p. ignition systems on late model vehicles where no available tachometer output is available. There are still some vehicles out there that have a useable tachometer signal, but for those that do not, all is not lost. We offer a tachometer adapter, model # 9117 which is universal to allow most vehicles without a tachometer signal to have a tachometer installed. For the installation of the tachometer adapter, it will require locating the power supply to the ignition coils and cutting the power supply prior to the power splitting between all of the coils. The tachometer adapter will have an in (red) and an out (red/green) wire. Wire the adapter between the two cut halves of the power supply. Ground the black wire and the last wire (gray) is your new tachometer output.
This is relatively easy on most vehicles, but depending on how the system is wired, you may be able to isolate the power to only half the coils. Chrysler V-6 and V-8 engines with individual coil on plug ignitions can be much more difficult, and you should contact our tech support department before installation on one of these vehicles.
This leads us to the next point and question, “Why can’t I just splice into the wire(s) that goes to the tach in the cluster?” This sounds like a viable option, but the signal to the cluster tach is not the same signal as what our tach needs to see (12v square wave). This is commonly referred to as Multiplexing, which is the process of communicating several messages over the same signal path or wiring. In most cases, the wire that has the tach signal also has the signal for any of the following:
Tachometer
LOW FUEL level indicator
Speedometer
The standard gauges; oil, water, fuel level and volts
Odometer
Brake warning light
Seat belt
And so on…
As you can see, for this example ’99 Mustang there is a lot more than just the tach’s engine RPM signal going up to the cluster and our tach cannot derive the signal needed to operate, nor is it the correct signal. We have also found that the rate of refresh is very low, so it does not give as accurate readings as our tach needs to see.
BTW:
The reason I am pushing you to have a shop do it, is the authorization basically releases “everyone” from liability. You let someone borrow your car and they are injured due to the disabled bag it come back on you.
Our shop has done the authorized on/off switches. Our first customer got the authorization on his second car, the first he unplugged the airbags on himself and his insurance company fought him hard to deny his claims. He hired a mediator and was able to reach an agreement, but it was far less than he should have normally gotten.
BTW:
The reason I am pushing you to have a shop do it, is the authorization basically releases “everyone” from liability. You let someone borrow your car and they are injured due to the disabled bag it come back on you.
Our shop has done the authorized on/off switches. Our first customer got the authorization on his second car, the first he unplugged the airbags on himself and his insurance company fought him hard to deny his claims. He hired a mediator and was able to reach an agreement, but it was far less than he should have normally gotten.
I agree you need it disabled.
Try this, before doing your self contact your local dealer and the manufacturer. Often certain safety devices can be overridden legally when the client/operator is disabled and the safety devices are more likely to harm the operator than save them.
Now the reason I say that is they can disable it at the control module end, but it requires special tools and there are security codes involved. If they disable it and you get in an accident your insurance is less likely to baulk at “illegal” modifications. Insurance companies often have clauses int hem that “let them off the hook” for your medical costs if you knowingly and willingly disabled a safety device. You could get into a accident and end up not having anything covered just for unhooking that airbag.
See if this site helps any
http://www.safercar.gov/Vehicle+Shoppers/Air+Bags/ON-OFF+Switch+RequestsOnly authorized dealers and repair shops can install ON-OFF switches and can do so only with an authorization letter from NHTSA. If you are interested in having an air bag ON-OFF switch installed in a vehicle you own or lease (check with the leasing company first to see if installing an ON-OFF switch would violate the terms of your lease), you will need to:
Read NHTSA’s brochure, “Air Bags & On-Off Switches: Information for an Informed Decision” or request a copy by mail.
Download the form or request a copy by mail.
Before filling out the form, ensure you have read the brochure carefully: you may decide that an ON-OFF switch is not appropriate for you.
If you decide to request an ON-OFF switch, you will need to certify on the request form that you have read the brochure and that you (or other occupants of your vehicle) fall into one or more of the high-risk groups for the air bag(s) for which you request a switch.
Fill out and submit the request form to NHTSA at the following address:
National Highway Traffic Safety Administration
Attention: Air Bag Switch Requests
1200 New Jersey Avenue, SE
Washington, DC 20590-1000
For a faster response, write your phone number on the form and fax it to: 202-493-2833 or 202-366-6916. For questions, call the Air Bag Division at 202-366-0296 or e-mail Derrick.Lewis@dot.gov.
If the form is properly and completely filled out, NHTSA will then send you an authorization letter that you can take to your dealer or repair shop.
In most cases, you can expect a response back to your request within one week from the date your request is received by NHTSA — and not longer than two weeks.
Check with your auto dealer or repair shop to see if an ON-OFF switch is available for your vehicle and how much the switch will cost. If a switch is available and the dealer or repair shop is willing to install it, give the authorization letter directly to the dealer or repair business. After the dealer or repair shop installs the ON-OFF switch, they will return a form along with the authorization letter to NHTSA, indicating the work has been done for you.I agree you need it disabled.
Try this, before doing your self contact your local dealer and the manufacturer. Often certain safety devices can be overridden legally when the client/operator is disabled and the safety devices are more likely to harm the operator than save them.
Now the reason I say that is they can disable it at the control module end, but it requires special tools and there are security codes involved. If they disable it and you get in an accident your insurance is less likely to baulk at “illegal” modifications. Insurance companies often have clauses int hem that “let them off the hook” for your medical costs if you knowingly and willingly disabled a safety device. You could get into a accident and end up not having anything covered just for unhooking that airbag.
See if this site helps any
http://www.safercar.gov/Vehicle+Shoppers/Air+Bags/ON-OFF+Switch+RequestsOnly authorized dealers and repair shops can install ON-OFF switches and can do so only with an authorization letter from NHTSA. If you are interested in having an air bag ON-OFF switch installed in a vehicle you own or lease (check with the leasing company first to see if installing an ON-OFF switch would violate the terms of your lease), you will need to:
Read NHTSA’s brochure, “Air Bags & On-Off Switches: Information for an Informed Decision” or request a copy by mail.
Download the form or request a copy by mail.
Before filling out the form, ensure you have read the brochure carefully: you may decide that an ON-OFF switch is not appropriate for you.
If you decide to request an ON-OFF switch, you will need to certify on the request form that you have read the brochure and that you (or other occupants of your vehicle) fall into one or more of the high-risk groups for the air bag(s) for which you request a switch.
Fill out and submit the request form to NHTSA at the following address:
National Highway Traffic Safety Administration
Attention: Air Bag Switch Requests
1200 New Jersey Avenue, SE
Washington, DC 20590-1000
For a faster response, write your phone number on the form and fax it to: 202-493-2833 or 202-366-6916. For questions, call the Air Bag Division at 202-366-0296 or e-mail Derrick.Lewis@dot.gov.
If the form is properly and completely filled out, NHTSA will then send you an authorization letter that you can take to your dealer or repair shop.
In most cases, you can expect a response back to your request within one week from the date your request is received by NHTSA — and not longer than two weeks.
Check with your auto dealer or repair shop to see if an ON-OFF switch is available for your vehicle and how much the switch will cost. If a switch is available and the dealer or repair shop is willing to install it, give the authorization letter directly to the dealer or repair business. After the dealer or repair shop installs the ON-OFF switch, they will return a form along with the authorization letter to NHTSA, indicating the work has been done for you.
