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I agree with Bill on the filter. Seen many filters not seal very well on the drain back valve allowing all the oil in the galley to drain back into the pan. When you start the car you are having to wait for the filter and galley to refill which takes a few seconds. Try a premium filter and see what happens.
That is a nice set of controls, and very well installed.
Yeah it looks like a resistor only on your system would have not worked, if I am reading the wiring diagram right your airbags actually have a small processor that talks back to the SRS control module. This allows the SRS to actually change the deploy rate and force based on impact criteria.
That is a nice set of controls, and very well installed.
Yeah it looks like a resistor only on your system would have not worked, if I am reading the wiring diagram right your airbags actually have a small processor that talks back to the SRS control module. This allows the SRS to actually change the deploy rate and force based on impact criteria.
about $30.00 and can help confirm if you have a leaking head gasket
about $30.00 and can help confirm if you have a leaking head gasket
Also, freeze frame data showed that the fuel trims were not exactly perfect. One was like 7.4 the other was like 3 or something.
That is actually okay, anything less than about 10% is okay and not causing your problem.
I still think you need to test for timing chain stretch.
The ECM can compensate for timing chain stretch, but you still will get weird random misfire codes.
Also, freeze frame data showed that the fuel trims were not exactly perfect. One was like 7.4 the other was like 3 or something.
That is actually okay, anything less than about 10% is okay and not causing your problem.
I still think you need to test for timing chain stretch.
The ECM can compensate for timing chain stretch, but you still will get weird random misfire codes.
I think the new way is an simple on/off switch that will allow you to decide if the airbag is disabled.
I think the new way is an simple on/off switch that will allow you to decide if the airbag is disabled.
[quote=”skalrynd” post=85611]So my 96 (manual) Accord has been doing this especially since the colder weather has set in: On a really cold morning, upon the first couple of turns on start up it makes the weirdest and rather loud whistle that varies pitch 3 or 4 times within a second. It is almost reminiscent of R2D2. If it weren’t for the fact it’s not what you’d like to hear from your car, I’d say it’s actually kinda cool. Maybe my car is saying “Good morning, CJ. Man, it’s cold today!”
For the first couple of minutes as it’s heating up it gives a type of whistle or “cry” that varies in volume. I’ve tracked down that sound coming from around the timing belt housing. I did have a timing belt/water pump change less than a year ago. I have a theory (based on the noise) it may be a bearing somewhere close by. But if so, what?
Anyone else ever had something similar like this or any ideas? The car runs fine. I just let it heat up and drive off. No performance issues. At the same time, I’d like to be preemptive and try to tackle the problem.[/quote]
Did you change the tensioner and idler pulleys?
Usually what happens is when a new belt gets put on old pulleys the new belt is much tighter than the old one was putting more stress on the bearings and causing them to fail much faster.
[quote=”skalrynd” post=85611]So my 96 (manual) Accord has been doing this especially since the colder weather has set in: On a really cold morning, upon the first couple of turns on start up it makes the weirdest and rather loud whistle that varies pitch 3 or 4 times within a second. It is almost reminiscent of R2D2. If it weren’t for the fact it’s not what you’d like to hear from your car, I’d say it’s actually kinda cool. Maybe my car is saying “Good morning, CJ. Man, it’s cold today!”
For the first couple of minutes as it’s heating up it gives a type of whistle or “cry” that varies in volume. I’ve tracked down that sound coming from around the timing belt housing. I did have a timing belt/water pump change less than a year ago. I have a theory (based on the noise) it may be a bearing somewhere close by. But if so, what?
Anyone else ever had something similar like this or any ideas? The car runs fine. I just let it heat up and drive off. No performance issues. At the same time, I’d like to be preemptive and try to tackle the problem.[/quote]
Did you change the tensioner and idler pulleys?
Usually what happens is when a new belt gets put on old pulleys the new belt is much tighter than the old one was putting more stress on the bearings and causing them to fail much faster.
I don’t advise using the “chemical dusters” either, 134a can be some really nasty stuff and is NOT good for your lungs.
I use either a rechargeable “air duster” that uses real air, or I pop the desiccant moisture remover on the end of a blow off gun and turn the pressure way down.
I don’t advise using the “chemical dusters” either, 134a can be some really nasty stuff and is NOT good for your lungs.
I use either a rechargeable “air duster” that uses real air, or I pop the desiccant moisture remover on the end of a blow off gun and turn the pressure way down.
The boot is just a dust seal to protect the real seal inside. Most likely it should not be a problem, like Eric stated just clean the old stuff off the best you can. And sparingly apply the silicone paste and you should be good to go.