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[quote=”valde” post=88315][quote=”Raistian77″ post=88305] You can get a split boot which you can install without tearing down the axle, but a split boot sucks pretty bad and is notorious fro failing in a short period of time. [/quote]
They are prone to failure you shouldn’t use those.[quote=”Raistian77″ post=88305] In the long run the wisest thing to do is just replace the axle and be done with it.[/quote]
Normally drive axels (if boot holds) will last lifetime of vehicle. Why would it be better to replace entire axle if re
placing boot(s) will give it same lifetime for cheaper?[/quote]They can be difficult to disassemble, just depending on design. It is really easy to mess one up if you have never done the job before. And most aftermarket axles are sub-100.00 and usually carry a lifetime warranty.
Hell I rebuilt axles for years back when a reman cost you over $200.00 but with as cheap as they are I usually just buy a new one even for my own vehicles.
When I did the wife’s last year I went with two new axles, took me about 1/2 hour to change out both. Four years ago I rebuilt a similar set and it took a huge chunk of the day.
[quote=”valde” post=88315][quote=”Raistian77″ post=88305] You can get a split boot which you can install without tearing down the axle, but a split boot sucks pretty bad and is notorious fro failing in a short period of time. [/quote]
They are prone to failure you shouldn’t use those.[quote=”Raistian77″ post=88305] In the long run the wisest thing to do is just replace the axle and be done with it.[/quote]
Normally drive axels (if boot holds) will last lifetime of vehicle. Why would it be better to replace entire axle if re
placing boot(s) will give it same lifetime for cheaper?[/quote]They can be difficult to disassemble, just depending on design. It is really easy to mess one up if you have never done the job before. And most aftermarket axles are sub-100.00 and usually carry a lifetime warranty.
Hell I rebuilt axles for years back when a reman cost you over $200.00 but with as cheap as they are I usually just buy a new one even for my own vehicles.
When I did the wife’s last year I went with two new axles, took me about 1/2 hour to change out both. Four years ago I rebuilt a similar set and it took a huge chunk of the day.
Depends
You can get a split boot which you can install without tearing down the axle, but a split boot sucks pretty bad and is notorious fro failing in a short period of time.
Now to install a regular OEM boot you will have to disassemble the axle and than reassemble it, if you have never done that I don’t recommend it at all.
In the long run the wisest thing to do is just replace the axle and be done with it.
Depends
You can get a split boot which you can install without tearing down the axle, but a split boot sucks pretty bad and is notorious fro failing in a short period of time.
Now to install a regular OEM boot you will have to disassemble the axle and than reassemble it, if you have never done that I don’t recommend it at all.
In the long run the wisest thing to do is just replace the axle and be done with it.
[quote=”barneyb” post=88295]
So, it doesn’t surprise me to learn that Honda is going to a single recommendation for oil viscosity. Just one less thing to confuse owners.[/quote]
I think it is more to keep owners from setting their own specs based on past experience. I have met people that buy new cars and the first thing they want to do is dump in 20W50 because that is what they used in the beater they had before and their friends claim that recommended oils are just “too thin”.
[quote=”barneyb” post=88295]
So, it doesn’t surprise me to learn that Honda is going to a single recommendation for oil viscosity. Just one less thing to confuse owners.[/quote]
I think it is more to keep owners from setting their own specs based on past experience. I have met people that buy new cars and the first thing they want to do is dump in 20W50 because that is what they used in the beater they had before and their friends claim that recommended oils are just “too thin”.
Barneyb, actually for that past few years most manufactures have stopped recommending a range of oils and now only recommend one weight.
Hondas now only have one oil recommendation and no longer have that sliding graph showing an acceptable range. The last year for Preludes (2001) had 2 recommended oils 5w30 and 10w30 but a 2010 Accord only has 5w20 as an recommended oil and a 2012 Civic has an only recommended oil weight of 0w20.
My take on semisynthetic oil is that it is an attempt by the refiners to address both the poor pumping qualities of conventional oil at low temperatures and the thinning problems of synthetic oil at high temperatures. So, I say, not a bad choice. On the other hand, I had 10W-40 synthetic in my Evo, left over from summer, and it started like it was summer at subzero temperatures. However, I pulled it for the recommended 10w-30.
I see it more as a con game when it comes to blended oils, there are no regulations that specify how much synthetic or conventional ratios compromise a “blended” oil so you could have as much as 50% or more synthetic or as little as 5% synthetic and the oil can still be legally labeled as a synthetic blend.
Barneyb, actually for that past few years most manufactures have stopped recommending a range of oils and now only recommend one weight.
Hondas now only have one oil recommendation and no longer have that sliding graph showing an acceptable range. The last year for Preludes (2001) had 2 recommended oils 5w30 and 10w30 but a 2010 Accord only has 5w20 as an recommended oil and a 2012 Civic has an only recommended oil weight of 0w20.
My take on semisynthetic oil is that it is an attempt by the refiners to address both the poor pumping qualities of conventional oil at low temperatures and the thinning problems of synthetic oil at high temperatures. So, I say, not a bad choice. On the other hand, I had 10W-40 synthetic in my Evo, left over from summer, and it started like it was summer at subzero temperatures. However, I pulled it for the recommended 10w-30.
I see it more as a con game when it comes to blended oils, there are no regulations that specify how much synthetic or conventional ratios compromise a “blended” oil so you could have as much as 50% or more synthetic or as little as 5% synthetic and the oil can still be legally labeled as a synthetic blend.
If you have good spark on number 4 you will want to test the injector. Unplug the number 4 injector and turn the key to on, test for power on the dark green wire with an orange stripe, you should have power when ever the key is on or the engine is running. If you do, set your test light up for checking grounds again (clip on battery positive) and start the engine with the injector still disconnected (if you have it connected the test light will ground the injector and hold it open, you don’t want that) and probe the light blue with brown wire, it should be flashing.
If you have good spark on number 4 you will want to test the injector. Unplug the number 4 injector and turn the key to on, test for power on the dark green wire with an orange stripe, you should have power when ever the key is on or the engine is running. If you do, set your test light up for checking grounds again (clip on battery positive) and start the engine with the injector still disconnected (if you have it connected the test light will ground the injector and hold it open, you don’t want that) and probe the light blue with brown wire, it should be flashing.
Neon’s are very picky on plugs and are known for coil issues.
You might need to pick up an actual spark tester to stress the coil and ensure it is not internally shorting. When you test for spark at number 4 also test number 2, since your design is a waste spark method the coil actually fires cylinders 2 and 4 simultaneously, if 2 fires and 4 does not it usually indicates a shorted coil. If you do not have spark going to the number 4 cylinder, get a test light and check for power on the dark green wire with an orange stripe (this should be good as your other plugs are firing), next take your test light clip and place it on the batteries positive terminal (you are now testing for grounds). Probe the dark blue with tan wire while the engine is running the light should be flashing, then test the black with a grey stripe wire and it also should be flashing.
Most likely you have a failed coil, the design uses very little insulating resin and neon coils are known to get very hot and the resin breaks down allowing the coil to “cheat” and fire internally instead of through the plug wire.
Neon’s are very picky on plugs and are known for coil issues.
You might need to pick up an actual spark tester to stress the coil and ensure it is not internally shorting. When you test for spark at number 4 also test number 2, since your design is a waste spark method the coil actually fires cylinders 2 and 4 simultaneously, if 2 fires and 4 does not it usually indicates a shorted coil. If you do not have spark going to the number 4 cylinder, get a test light and check for power on the dark green wire with an orange stripe (this should be good as your other plugs are firing), next take your test light clip and place it on the batteries positive terminal (you are now testing for grounds). Probe the dark blue with tan wire while the engine is running the light should be flashing, then test the black with a grey stripe wire and it also should be flashing.
Most likely you have a failed coil, the design uses very little insulating resin and neon coils are known to get very hot and the resin breaks down allowing the coil to “cheat” and fire internally instead of through the plug wire.
I agree with Bill on the filter. Seen many filters not seal very well on the drain back valve allowing all the oil in the galley to drain back into the pan. When you start the car you are having to wait for the filter and galley to refill which takes a few seconds. Try a premium filter and see what happens.