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IIRC you can use a used one from the same year, but you want to be sure the options match.
Example power windows, power locks, 4X4, ect.
Those GEM modules can corrode on the ground line for the battery saver relay, it keeps the relay closed during switch off situations and that keeps the modules on the bus awake
[quote=”Boodieman72″ post=88600][quote=”Raistian77″ post=88599]Looks like they use the high frequency method. I still would not have that hooked to a battery that was installed in a vehicle. Modules are very sensitive to frequency issues that can interfere with the chipsets.[/quote]
Then don’t use the one thats hooked up all the time, use one of the charger ones instead.[/quote]
The one I used I built, but I only use it on disconnected batteries.
I get nervous when charger manufactures tell customers it is safe to connect a charger to a battery that is connected to the vehicle, in reality it is not. All major automotive manufacturers will tell you to disconnect the battery when using any charger as chargers can spike a system, I won’t even use the “boost” mode on a charger. Now the newest chargers are much much much safer and produce a much cleaner output, but I still am leery that a mains spike can screw with them enough for them to spike the vehicle. Especially in this modern age of at least 5 to 20 control modules on a vehicle.
[quote=”Boodieman72″ post=88600][quote=”Raistian77″ post=88599]Looks like they use the high frequency method. I still would not have that hooked to a battery that was installed in a vehicle. Modules are very sensitive to frequency issues that can interfere with the chipsets.[/quote]
Then don’t use the one thats hooked up all the time, use one of the charger ones instead.[/quote]
The one I used I built, but I only use it on disconnected batteries.
I get nervous when charger manufactures tell customers it is safe to connect a charger to a battery that is connected to the vehicle, in reality it is not. All major automotive manufacturers will tell you to disconnect the battery when using any charger as chargers can spike a system, I won’t even use the “boost” mode on a charger. Now the newest chargers are much much much safer and produce a much cleaner output, but I still am leery that a mains spike can screw with them enough for them to spike the vehicle. Especially in this modern age of at least 5 to 20 control modules on a vehicle.
Looks like they use the high frequency method. I still would not have that hooked to a battery that was installed in a vehicle. Modules are very sensitive to frequency issues that can interfere with the chipsets.
Looks like they use the high frequency method. I still would not have that hooked to a battery that was installed in a vehicle. Modules are very sensitive to frequency issues that can interfere with the chipsets.
[quote=”Boodieman72″ post=88583]The one I use is from http://batteryminders.com
They offer both standard plug in models as well as solar ones and even a desulfator that’s run by the alternator that works as you drive (which can be plugged into one of the standard chargers)[/quote]
Not sure I would want one hooked up with the battery connected to the vehicle. Most desulfators work by sending high voltage low amperage pulses to the battery to break up the sulfation.
[quote=”Boodieman72″ post=88583]The one I use is from http://batteryminders.com
They offer both standard plug in models as well as solar ones and even a desulfator that’s run by the alternator that works as you drive (which can be plugged into one of the standard chargers)[/quote]
Not sure I would want one hooked up with the battery connected to the vehicle. Most desulfators work by sending high voltage low amperage pulses to the battery to break up the sulfation.
Lots of times dirt and debris gets deposited on the exposed parts of the cable under the hood and gets drawn into the sheath. This can add friction to the cable and increase the pressure needed to move it.
Many times I have removed the cables and soaked the assemblies in a container of clean engine oil overnight. Occasionally pull the cable out, work it and re-soak it. I found this helps extend the life of the cable and makes actuating it much easier.
Lots of times dirt and debris gets deposited on the exposed parts of the cable under the hood and gets drawn into the sheath. This can add friction to the cable and increase the pressure needed to move it.
Many times I have removed the cables and soaked the assemblies in a container of clean engine oil overnight. Occasionally pull the cable out, work it and re-soak it. I found this helps extend the life of the cable and makes actuating it much easier.
[quote=”wysetech” post=88577]I believe you’re right on the sulfated battery issue but I have never heard of a battery desulfator. Can you fill us in on that.[/quote]
http://www.instructables.com/id/Desulfator-for-12V-Car-Batteries-in-an-Altoids-Ti/
[quote=”wysetech” post=88577]I believe you’re right on the sulfated battery issue but I have never heard of a battery desulfator. Can you fill us in on that.[/quote]
http://www.instructables.com/id/Desulfator-for-12V-Car-Batteries-in-an-Altoids-Ti/
[quote=”mikeboggess” post=88490]Turned out to be fuel system not holding pressure dur to leak in the fuel filter housing, replace o-rings on fuel heater and replace volt. reg. that was not allowing the batteries to have sufficient oooomph. Received these tips on this site. Thanks for your reply.[/quote]
Good deal. yeah a leaking fuel canister can cause the high pressure pump t get air in it and cause all kinds of issues.
bbryan1
There is no fuel pressure regulator on that system, the high pressure pump handles pressure regulation internally.[quote=”mikeboggess” post=88490]Turned out to be fuel system not holding pressure dur to leak in the fuel filter housing, replace o-rings on fuel heater and replace volt. reg. that was not allowing the batteries to have sufficient oooomph. Received these tips on this site. Thanks for your reply.[/quote]
Good deal. yeah a leaking fuel canister can cause the high pressure pump t get air in it and cause all kinds of issues.
bbryan1
There is no fuel pressure regulator on that system, the high pressure pump handles pressure regulation internally.[quote=”DormanPartFail” post=88491]*Update*
I was able to get the car to act up for 4 days in a row and drove it to the local Ford dealer here in town. They were able to plug in their Ford Scan tool and identified that the driver’s door latch/switch was the one sticking. Had to order a new drivers latch/switch assembly and they installed it. So far its been 3 weeks and no more door ajar buzzer noises when driving.
Victory banana:[/quote]
Good to hear. 🙂
[quote=”DormanPartFail” post=88491]*Update*
I was able to get the car to act up for 4 days in a row and drove it to the local Ford dealer here in town. They were able to plug in their Ford Scan tool and identified that the driver’s door latch/switch was the one sticking. Had to order a new drivers latch/switch assembly and they installed it. So far its been 3 weeks and no more door ajar buzzer noises when driving.
Victory banana:[/quote]
Good to hear. 🙂
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