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I love the electrolysis method. I use it most prepping motorcycle and small engine fuel tanks for restoration. One word of advice, be careful to not use galvanized or stainless metal for your sacrificial anode. The stainless will release chromium into your mix and is pretty nasty stuff environmental wise. The galvanized gives off some toxic fumes and will turn your parts green.
That is the same way I do it also. I found that stud pullers tend to damage the stud threads in the process.
That is the same way I do it also. I found that stud pullers tend to damage the stud threads in the process.
Ego was the reason I left a shop.
After the shop I headed for 8 years closed I was back in the market for a new shop to work for. I get a call from a local shop that was looking for a drive-ability technician. I go in, talk to the owner and we settle on an agreement and I moved my tools in. While unloading the senior “tech” walks over sees my diagnostic cart loaded with scanners and a couple of lab-scopes and comments that “he never needed any stupid computer to fix cars”. For 2 days all I got was crap from the other “good ol boy” techs about how silly it was to have all the diagnostic tools I had “We just pull the battery cable son, and that fixes them “engine lights” right up”.
So first job I get is a crank position sensor that is failing when the engine is hot. I verified the fault using the Pegisys and lab scope and go to the lead tech to inform him of the fault. He tells me to replace the fuel filter :huh: and pull the battery cable. That kind of thing went on for a bit and I left after I found the head tech fixing a head gasket leak with a bottle of sealer and charging the customer for a gasket replacement (guy even charged for a head inspection and resurfacing).
Ego was the reason I left a shop.
After the shop I headed for 8 years closed I was back in the market for a new shop to work for. I get a call from a local shop that was looking for a drive-ability technician. I go in, talk to the owner and we settle on an agreement and I moved my tools in. While unloading the senior “tech” walks over sees my diagnostic cart loaded with scanners and a couple of lab-scopes and comments that “he never needed any stupid computer to fix cars”. For 2 days all I got was crap from the other “good ol boy” techs about how silly it was to have all the diagnostic tools I had “We just pull the battery cable son, and that fixes them “engine lights” right up”.
So first job I get is a crank position sensor that is failing when the engine is hot. I verified the fault using the Pegisys and lab scope and go to the lead tech to inform him of the fault. He tells me to replace the fuel filter :huh: and pull the battery cable. That kind of thing went on for a bit and I left after I found the head tech fixing a head gasket leak with a bottle of sealer and charging the customer for a gasket replacement (guy even charged for a head inspection and resurfacing).
I saw that video of Scotty’s and am a bit…..uncomfortable with the idea of pouring so much lacquer thinner in the gas tank. That stuff can eat plastics and damage rubber lines, I am wary of “chemical fixes” for mechanical problems.
I saw that video of Scotty’s and am a bit…..uncomfortable with the idea of pouring so much lacquer thinner in the gas tank. That stuff can eat plastics and damage rubber lines, I am wary of “chemical fixes” for mechanical problems.
I would have to agree with ToyotaKarl, it sounds like a fuel delivery issue, since an intake leak would become less problematic at higher rpms. Since it seems like you start having a trim issue at higher load/rpm, I would look for lack of proper fuel pressure/volume. Like suggested try a proper injector cleaning, if it is no help see if you can find someone to do a fuel pressure drop test by firing each injector one at a time to see how much the pressure drops. Also I would recommend scoping the injectors to find if one has a weak winding, it may be working fine at lower pulse widths, but failing when firing at a higher pulse width (high RPMs).
I would have to agree with ToyotaKarl, it sounds like a fuel delivery issue, since an intake leak would become less problematic at higher rpms. Since it seems like you start having a trim issue at higher load/rpm, I would look for lack of proper fuel pressure/volume. Like suggested try a proper injector cleaning, if it is no help see if you can find someone to do a fuel pressure drop test by firing each injector one at a time to see how much the pressure drops. Also I would recommend scoping the injectors to find if one has a weak winding, it may be working fine at lower pulse widths, but failing when firing at a higher pulse width (high RPMs).
I just purchased a uscope. Not to bad for a single channel scope. I really want a Pico, but at this time can’t justify the price. So I use the little uscope until I have enough saved to buy a Pico 4000 4 channel and than I can use the uscope for field work.
The uscope can be found over at AESwave and runs about $400.00 plus another $30 if you want the adapters for using current clamps and BNC accessories. I bought the adapters as I already have a 200 Amp and 60 Amp current clamp.
I just purchased a uscope. Not to bad for a single channel scope. I really want a Pico, but at this time can’t justify the price. So I use the little uscope until I have enough saved to buy a Pico 4000 4 channel and than I can use the uscope for field work.
The uscope can be found over at AESwave and runs about $400.00 plus another $30 if you want the adapters for using current clamps and BNC accessories. I bought the adapters as I already have a 200 Amp and 60 Amp current clamp.
Hello, my name is Kevin.
I started out taking 2 years of auto tech training in Michigan. Joined the military and worked and maintained Chinook helicopters for 6 years than joined a independent repair shop. Worked there for 8 years working my way up to head technician. When that shop closed (owner sold to chain store) I opened my own and stayed there until the property owner sold that location to developers. Went to work at a construction company as a fleet technician till my illness made doing such work constantly almost impossible.
Now I work out of the 3 bay garage on our land (fully insured) I still am working to expand my certifications and training and enjoy a much more relaxed work load. I still get to fix cars/trucks but can better dictate what I will and wont take.
Love the ETCG videos and think Eric is doing a great job helping others and helping technicians.
Hello, my name is Kevin.
I started out taking 2 years of auto tech training in Michigan. Joined the military and worked and maintained Chinook helicopters for 6 years than joined a independent repair shop. Worked there for 8 years working my way up to head technician. When that shop closed (owner sold to chain store) I opened my own and stayed there until the property owner sold that location to developers. Went to work at a construction company as a fleet technician till my illness made doing such work constantly almost impossible.
Now I work out of the 3 bay garage on our land (fully insured) I still am working to expand my certifications and training and enjoy a much more relaxed work load. I still get to fix cars/trucks but can better dictate what I will and wont take.
Love the ETCG videos and think Eric is doing a great job helping others and helping technicians.