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I don’t have repair information on the Hyundai line yet, sorry.
I have been trying to find your fuel pressure and volume specs. I have a feeling that the pressure is fine, but the volume is under spec and causing you this problem.
I will keep looking, I know somewhere I have the 3rd disc which is Hyundai stuff (alldata)
I don’t have repair information on the Hyundai line yet, sorry.
I have been trying to find your fuel pressure and volume specs. I have a feeling that the pressure is fine, but the volume is under spec and causing you this problem.
I will keep looking, I know somewhere I have the 3rd disc which is Hyundai stuff (alldata)
Also never forget that NEW stands for “Never Ever Worked” just because a part is new does not mean it is good. I have had bad new parts completely ruin a diagnostic procedure.
Also never forget that NEW stands for “Never Ever Worked” just because a part is new does not mean it is good. I have had bad new parts completely ruin a diagnostic procedure.
According to Alldata the crank sensor is actually located on the back left of the head and runs off the camshaft.
Here is a link to autozone’s repair section http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280037f60
I would definitely start with that, if something is wrong with the crank part of the sensor, but okay with the cam part, you will get fuel pulsing, but no spark.
According to Alldata the crank sensor is actually located on the back left of the head and runs off the camshaft.
Here is a link to autozone’s repair section http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280037f60
I would definitely start with that, if something is wrong with the crank part of the sensor, but okay with the cam part, you will get fuel pulsing, but no spark.
Okay.
So we are looking at a possible fuel volume issue. Also is your system speed density (MAP) or MAF driven? If you have a MAF sensor you might have a issue with the sensor being bad or dirty.
Just occurred to me, I have seen this code show up on some systems when the owner replaces the stock air system with a cone style filter.
Okay.
So we are looking at a possible fuel volume issue. Also is your system speed density (MAP) or MAF driven? If you have a MAF sensor you might have a issue with the sensor being bad or dirty.
Just occurred to me, I have seen this code show up on some systems when the owner replaces the stock air system with a cone style filter.
Year make and model might help us a bit. But, if the timing is dead on and it seems like you are flooding, I would double check all electrical connections. If I had to guess I would say likely you might have a cam or crank sensor unplugged.
Year make and model might help us a bit. But, if the timing is dead on and it seems like you are flooding, I would double check all electrical connections. If I had to guess I would say likely you might have a cam or crank sensor unplugged.
If the injectors do not work, try this.
Find a way to put a fuel pressure gauge where you can see it while driving (be safe) and go for a drive and see what FP is doing under load. There is a possibility that the regulator or pump are causing you fp to fall off under a load.
If the injectors do not work, try this.
Find a way to put a fuel pressure gauge where you can see it while driving (be safe) and go for a drive and see what FP is doing under load. There is a possibility that the regulator or pump are causing you fp to fall off under a load.
Exactly what college man said.
I strongly agree NO to stop leak. Most oil stop leaks work by softening the rubber that seals are made from. This causes them to swell and seal up….temporarily. Soft seals wear much faster so by sticking stop leak into your car you might stop the valve cover leak, but in the process be setting yourself up to need to replace the cam and crank seals (big job).
Exactly what college man said.
I strongly agree NO to stop leak. Most oil stop leaks work by softening the rubber that seals are made from. This causes them to swell and seal up….temporarily. Soft seals wear much faster so by sticking stop leak into your car you might stop the valve cover leak, but in the process be setting yourself up to need to replace the cam and crank seals (big job).
I love the electrolysis method. I use it most prepping motorcycle and small engine fuel tanks for restoration. One word of advice, be careful to not use galvanized or stainless metal for your sacrificial anode. The stainless will release chromium into your mix and is pretty nasty stuff environmental wise. The galvanized gives off some toxic fumes and will turn your parts green.