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It does sound like your AT was getting too hot and causing grip issues with the bands.
I would start with a fluid change and carefully inspect the cooling system, make sure there is no debris around the radiator, reducing cooling capability of the trans cooler.
[quote=”wysetech” post=75370]I always like to replace calipers in pairs but it’s not mandatory. If the opposite caliper is obviously in good condition, like the pistons retract easily and there is no other damage, you should be ok just replacing the damaged one.[/quote]
Wyse, I could be wrong, but I think he is talking about replacing the dust boots on one caliper. Sounds like one of the boots on a twin piston caliper is torn and he wants to know if he should replace the other boot on the same caliper.
Johnno
My personal advise would normally be to replace the caliper not just the dust boot. With that boot damaged, dirt and debris have been allowed to get inside along side the piston and likely have damaged the bore and weakened the seal. I usually try to never compromise with braking systems, if the caliper is suspect I would replace it. As my father used to say “For a car, failure to go forward is an inconvenience, however failure to stop is an emergency.”
[quote=”wysetech” post=75370]I always like to replace calipers in pairs but it’s not mandatory. If the opposite caliper is obviously in good condition, like the pistons retract easily and there is no other damage, you should be ok just replacing the damaged one.[/quote]
Wyse, I could be wrong, but I think he is talking about replacing the dust boots on one caliper. Sounds like one of the boots on a twin piston caliper is torn and he wants to know if he should replace the other boot on the same caliper.
Johnno
My personal advise would normally be to replace the caliper not just the dust boot. With that boot damaged, dirt and debris have been allowed to get inside along side the piston and likely have damaged the bore and weakened the seal. I usually try to never compromise with braking systems, if the caliper is suspect I would replace it. As my father used to say “For a car, failure to go forward is an inconvenience, however failure to stop is an emergency.”
I hope Eric does not mind, but this is a pretty good video on removing and installing bushings.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUaM2tagIX4I hope Eric does not mind, but this is a pretty good video on removing and installing bushings.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUaM2tagIX4October 12, 2013 at 11:49 am in reply to: 98 NIssan Frontier with “Zero” compression #2 cyc. #549668Sorry to hear that, ouch.
October 12, 2013 at 11:49 am in reply to: 98 NIssan Frontier with “Zero” compression #2 cyc. #554585Sorry to hear that, ouch.
[quote=”cam” post=75343]go back to school nickwarner.
I dont want your help so rack off.[/quote]
Wow, That was unnecessarily rude. And hate to tell you Nick is correct. The screw you were adjusting is not a mixture screw, it is a air bypass screw. You can’t adjust idle because the base timing is advanced. If the computer normally advances timing by X than you adding an additional advancement (Y) means the total timing is X+Y. Once the computer realizes it can not control idle and timing it will start to retard timing and adjusting pulse-width to attempt to do the least amount of damage to the engine (pre-detonation) in the long run you will loose power and milage.
[quote=”cam” post=75343]go back to school nickwarner.
I dont want your help so rack off.[/quote]
Wow, That was unnecessarily rude. And hate to tell you Nick is correct. The screw you were adjusting is not a mixture screw, it is a air bypass screw. You can’t adjust idle because the base timing is advanced. If the computer normally advances timing by X than you adding an additional advancement (Y) means the total timing is X+Y. Once the computer realizes it can not control idle and timing it will start to retard timing and adjusting pulse-width to attempt to do the least amount of damage to the engine (pre-detonation) in the long run you will loose power and milage.
It just takes time.
I sold almost all my tools years ago when the property the shop was on was sold. In the last 2 years I have almost replaced everything, buying used and taking my time to find the best price. And the best part NO TOOL MAN TO PAY WEEKLY!!!!!! I cant come close to demonstrating the difference this time around.
It just takes time.
I sold almost all my tools years ago when the property the shop was on was sold. In the last 2 years I have almost replaced everything, buying used and taking my time to find the best price. And the best part NO TOOL MAN TO PAY WEEKLY!!!!!! I cant come close to demonstrating the difference this time around.
[quote=”richiepearce” post=72718]Sorry to say bent/broken valves so it’s head off I am afraid.[/quote]
Was gonna say the same thing.
[quote=”richiepearce” post=72718]Sorry to say bent/broken valves so it’s head off I am afraid.[/quote]
Was gonna say the same thing.
Can the distributor be installed 180 out?
Can the distributor be installed 180 out?
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