Forum Replies Created
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Strange ALL of your posts are literally a cut and paste commercial for your $500.00 instructional video (notice that scams teach you how to DIY rather than actually sell a product so you can claim the user made a mistake when your pseudo-product fails to deliver). You have done nothing on this site but try and advertise a product which has not been reliably demonstrated to work.
Would you like to tell me how you make 10,000 a day working from home while you are at it? Has the same “scam spam” ring to it.
This is still a thing? It was debunked ages ago, adding a “groove” does nothing beneficial and would interfere with the engineered design of airflow into the intake manifold and runners.
Peer reviewed DYNO demonstration with some kind of explanation as to how this could possibly do what you claim would be nice, till than this is no better than the vortex nonsense.
ok so you have spark and fuel, so either it is a timing issue or a mixture issue.
Check your brake booster hose where it snaps into the intake. make sure the oring is good and same with the housing the MAP/PCV snaps into
you might want to fully recheck the injector orings for leaks and make sure the gaskets did not slip.
Did you make sure the ground wires that go to the bracket the ignition module is bolted to are attached?
I know you checked fuel pressure, but did they/you check fuel volume?
Normally high speed misses (related to fuel) are related to fuel volume issues
Sorry have to make a correction
The blue wire is the tach signal to the ignition control module, the yellow wire is a hot feed to the ignition control module coming from the coil and the black with yellow is the battery feed to the coil (and also to the ignition control module through the solid yellow wire).honda distributor
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Okay if you are test lighting the wires with the ignition on and the connector connected to the distributor those wires will be hot as the coil does not dump voltage when doing no work.
Unplug the distributor, the black wire with a yellow stripe should be hot as this supplies the coil with 12 volts. The blue wire is what the ignition control module grounds to fire the coil, this wire should show a ground condition in varying pulses (when cranking) , the blue wire is just a signal wire to tell the ignition control module that the coil has cycled, this allows for a tach signal return.
On honda distributors always check the plastic internal housings well as the tend to crack allowing for internal misfires.
if the hose is long enough, trim past the broken part and reattach. If not you can try crushing the old one so the pieces fall out
short term use it’s not really an issue.
The problem is with frequent high-rpm (higher than the trans normally downshifts at) downshifting can cause accelerated wear. It’s not a major thing but the sudden pressure spikes can prematurely blow seals and o-rings.
Have you checked all the air inlet tubing? If one of the tubes come loose from the turbo or the TB than you will get similar running issues and that code.
I would just do the repair if it were me.
Your motor is an open deck design, lack of coolant in the oil on head gasket blow is actually normal as the oil passages are located far from the water jackets.
That engine uses a MLS (Multi layer Steel) head gasket, they really hate overheating because the common blow in a MLS gasket is a combination of cylinder head warpage and gasket warpage.
Pull the heads and have them checked by a machine shop, they likely are not cracked but warped. The block should be fine, it is steel and is not likely to warp unless it gets crazy hot. Dont forget to use new bolts as that engine uses a torque to yield bolt that stretches and cant be reused.