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If there are no check engine lights then I would check the basics like the condition of the air filter and Mass Air Flow sensor.
If your car never had a timing belt replacement before I would suggest it is better you do it. The life of a timing belt is not just the Miles but the age is considered too. I drive an Alfa Romeo 155 V6, a car which is known for cam belts breaking and destroying the whole engine and suggested timing belt change interval is 5 Years/60,000Miles or 100,000KMs.
One of my friend had a similar issue with his Toyota Yaris and that was caused a power wire which lost a tiny bit of it’s insulation. When I was checking his car I was doubtful this was causing that problem as the damage on wire due to aging was too small and the strands inside was very strong. I fixed that wire and till date he never had any problem.
My friend had a similar problem with his Toyota Yaris. Initially, the symptoms were low cooling so when I checked it was low on refrigerant. I topped up a little and the low side pressure started climbing up on idle that the compressor would shut down. Then we recovered some refrigerant and the cooling level went low. Then we changed the AC compressor as we had a used one lying around. Then it was fixed.
No. I always make sure I don’t depress or ride the clutch pedal for long in traffic. Can badly adjusted clutch mimic riding the clutch pedal?
Those years and older Hyundai/Kia engines would last a long time but they would consume oil a lot. I bought a used 2005 Kia Sorento in a rare spec with 2.4ltr engine. That engine used to consume 1 ltr every 1000KMs then I switched the oil to Valvoline Maxlife 10W-40 and that reduced the level of oil consumption to 1 ltr every 3000KMs.
Down the line I had to do an engine rebuild due to local MOT test failure from excessive oil smoke. Even after it runs without consuming oil with conventional oil only. With synthetic oil it still consumes.The pressure difference from the Vacuum in the system and the pressurized bottle will pump the initial few pounds of refrigerant after which the compressor should kick ON. If not, then there could be problem that needs further diagnosing.
My 2005 Kia Sorento with 2.4 Ltr runs best with the heavier 20W-50 grade oil especially considering that I live in hottest planet in the Middle East. When I bought my Sorento used it had an oil consumption issue. Then I heard about Vavoline MaxLife I looked for 20W-50 grade unfortunately I only found 10W-40 but I anyways tried it and the oil went from 1 ltr every 1000KMs to 1ltr every 3500-4000KMs. It didn’t completely solve the issue but it reduced to a much reasonable rate. Then in the end I had to rebuild the whole engine as it wouldn’t pass the emissions test because of oil smoke. The oil is definitely worth a try.
One thing which I just now noticed is 2nd to 3rd if I pull the shifter left then shift it ain’t sticky. 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th no difference with pulling left or pushing right but coming out of 5th is smoother pushing to right. I could be having a bad shifter link?
I agree. I have an Armada and now this Jeep both requires 5W-30 (Manufacturer’s claim round the year) but I use 5W-40 with additives for high temperature lubrication. They both run a lot better with that oil.
User’s manual recommends only Mopar manual transmission fluid and no weight is mentioned. Some forums mention the original transmission fluid is equivalent to 5W-30 engine in weight. Old fluid didn’t show any signs of worn copper content or any metal shavings on the magnetic drain plug.
I was thinking lately if I should change the fluid to some SAE80 or SAE90 GL-4 fluid which is synchro safe. 🙁
Anyways, I will check the shifter linkages first before going anything else.
This is not a turbo engine either.
Yesterday I got to speak with my mechanic, he said this issue is common in early Hyundai H1s Gasoline which uses the same engine sold being an SUV my mechanic thought it was not there in my Sorento. They fix this issue by adding an extra cooling fan that would run an extra 3-5mins after shutoff or alter the current fan wirings to do the same.
I will check with the mechanic who did the rebuild tomorrow. They have said previously that this engine is known for piston ring failures in my region where it can go over 50 degree celcius in the peak summer. I guess no one knew the cause maybe?
I still doubt this might be a design flaw causing the premature piston ring failure. :unsure:
There is no screen in the reservoir. All I could find is there is a restriction somewhere which is causing the fluid to return back to the reservoir and overflow. With the return line removed there is no flow coming from there. Maybe only if I had compressed air in the house I might have been able to clear it out. I will probably take it to my buddy’s garage for further work. Thanks everyone. 🙂