Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorReplies
-
Did you check for vacuum leaks?
Which grade oil do you use? If your engine has an oil burning issue switching to Full Synthetic will only make it worse.
When my Kia Sorento got an Oil Burning issue I switch the brand of oil to Valvoline Max Life which has some additives to condition the oil seals. My oil burning issue was not completely solved but the consumption lowered from 1 Liter every 1000KMs to 1 Liter every 3000-4000KMs.
You might be having a battery drain issue. After driving you can disconnect the negative terminal and put it back before driving next time to see if your vehicle is draining the battery. If it fires up without a problem then the vehicle is draining the battery, if the same problem happens again then the battery is bad.
One tire shop near my place kept warping my brake disc by using impact on putting the wheels back. Later I switched shops to a shop where they torque the wheel nuts and I never had the same problem again.
When the AC light blinks does your AC Compressor Clutch disengage? If so, also check if there is power going to it while it disengages.
It is highly possible the slamming is coming because of the high idle. Imagine shifting into gears while holding the revs high it can cause an unintended jerk and noise on any vehicle.
Apart from that, you can check the engine and transmission mounts too. If the noise is coming from the rear check the rear differential bushings too.
Did the problem start after the head gasket or intake gasket replacement? Did you check the condition of the throttle body?
I would have a look at the wirings for cuts or cracks from aging which goes to major sensors like Crankshaft Position Sensor, Camshaft Position Sensor, Mass Air Flow, Throttle Position Sensor. If you don’t find any then visibly check those sensors for damage.
If you have an Advanced Scan Tool try to look at the data when cold and warm to see if there are any changes.
Have you checked the connector if there is any lose connection or dirt buildup?
Yes, even a bad bearing can cause noise. You might need to check the idler and/or tensioner pulley bearings too. At times the noise on these come when the further load like this AC compressor is added.
Is your belt condition good? It looks like your problem happens only when the AC comes ON. Is the belt silently slipping maybe from some oil spill or something?
[quote=”js696700″ post=201028]Oh, and I have already checked and lubed the freewheel clutch actuator and replaced the vacuum solenoids that control it. Before doing those things, there was a little delay switching between 2h and 4h after moving the lever. Since lubing the actuator and replacing the solenoids, it seems to switch back and forth between 2h and 4h smoothly and quickly. Thanks for suggesting I check this.
Any other ideas? Could it be anything else besides the diff?[/quote]
I have driven two different Monteros and they both had delayed shifting to 4WD. One couldn’t engage 4WD in the sand and got stuck but luckily after turning the engine OFF and ON, the 4WD system worked as normal but with the same delay. So, I assumed the delay is a normal thing for the Monteros.
[quote=”wes104″ post=201021][quote=”rahuljones” post=201012]Guess it is highly likely your hydroboost unit is failing but I like to know if anyone here knows any method to test it out.[/quote]
what would the brake hydrobooster stop the steering gear from getting the needed pressure[/quote]
A minor block from Hydrobooster is what came to my mind as you didn’t mention weak brakes.
Guess it is highly likely your hydroboost unit is failing but I like to know if anyone here knows any method to test it out.
What was this car salvaged for? Did the brakes need any work during the rebuild?
-
AuthorReplies