Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Which brand clutch kit did you use? Hoping it included the throwout bearing too. This symptom sounds like the throwout bearing is starting to wear out.
I live in a Hot and Dusty region but still, some manufacturers have intervals every 15,000KMs. They do use the high quality certified brand oils. These engines don’t seem to have any problems at the early stages but as it covers more miles, Variable Valve system tends to fail.
I personally would prefer to do Full Synthetic oil change every 10,000KMs/1-Year for regular vehicle and 5,000KMs/6-Months for my weekend blast ride.
Just check if this link helps: http://www.ptcruiserlinks.com/forum/tech-performance-forum/37700-p0882-low-input-signal.html
If it is a manual transmission try push starting it and switching it off then try cranking using the starter and see if the starter motor catches the flywheel teeth. There is a chance a chunk of the flywheel teeth has been broken off.
[quote=”gatti.massimo” post=202190]Hi,
If I do floor the gas pedal, the car takes some time 1 sec to understand that it has to goooo.
This is my first automatic transmission car, maybe it is normal? is it?[/quote]
This is totally normal for an automatic transmission. This is why I am still stuck with stick shifts for daily and weekend.
I agree with Hanneman too. Replacing the Keyfob battery is worth a shot.
[quote=”Hanneman” post=201944]I’ve only had an issue with the doors when the fob battery is low. The first press may drain enough energy that creates a weak s, and the battery slowly recovers.
It’s a good place to start.The door lock setting can be changed so that all doors unlock when the unlock button is pressed once. The procedure is given on page 110 of the owner’s manual, which can view online here. If all the doors unlock, then the solenoids are functioning correctly and the problem is elsewhere, like a control module.
A weak battery can cause all sorts of electrical gremlins. It might be worth checking, although it seems unlikely here.[/quote]
It is the sign of your clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder that has gone bad. It is better to replace both of them as it may not take long for the other one to fail.
If the vibration happens while in gear like Drive or Reverse check what RPM it stays at and does switching ON the AC make it worse or better. If so, does the RPM rise up or go down?
If the fluid manufacturer mentions it is compliant with Type-IV then it will be. I have been using only aftermarket fluids on my vehicles because the dealer here sells the original fluid for almost 4 times the price of aftermarket fluid.
I have been using Valvoline MaxLife ATF on my Nissan Armada which needs Nissan S-Matic Fluid and Toyota Camry which needs Toyota Type-IV both have done over 100,000KMs with a fluid change in between. There have been no issues so far. MaxLife ATF works for both.
From the picture, it is before the throttle body and the air hose from that point usually goes to the valve cover as an intake of clean air for the PCV system. The hose for brake booster is for vacuum and that is connected from the intake manifold.
Is 5W-30 the recommended engine oil grade?
From the statement where you said the pressure builds up when you rev the engine, I am assuming your oil pump is wearing out.
Depending on the position of the thermostat you don’t need to drain the coolant completely but it is better to drain some and reducing the chance of a mess and making the connectors or some electrical components wet if there is any on the way.
Refilling with new coolant is fine. If you have dirty cooling system it is better you flush the whole system and then refill.