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Cracked differential has to be replaced as soon as possible. That small crack can get worse due to bad terrain vibration or something hitting while being driven. Unless your vehicle can disengage front hubs and drive in RWD, it is not safe to drive.
Is the pop you are mentioning a noise of metal hitting? If you could share a video of the issue, that would give us a better view of the issue.
If you have a basic test light, check the power going to the motor. It sounds like a jammed motor or regulator to me.
I would suggest checking and cleaning the throttle body first. Then give it a day of some driving with idling so the vehicle gets time to relearn the idle. Also check the basics like air filter condition, spark plugs and even cleaning the MAF sensor would also be a good idea.
As long as its a CRC MAF Sensor cleaner yes it can be used. MAF sensors are very delicate. Using anything but the MAF sensor cleaner can damage the sensor. Do not even use compressed air. Just use the MAF sensor and let it air dry before fixing it. Once my manager used Wurth electrical contact cleaner and the sensor became faulty and it blew a fuse on a Land Rover Defender 2.4 Turbo Diesel.
- This reply was modified 1 year, 9 months ago by Rahul Jones.
If it is a currently running engine which no other issues like coolant consumption, oil/coolant mixing and unusual noises then I would go for piston rings and head gasket replacement. If not I would tear down and assess the engine before considering rings and gasket replacement.
I would recommend checking the power voltage at each modules. Also, check the ground connections if they are tight and free dirt or corrosion. If so clean those. Modules have a minimum voltage if it drops below a certain range it will not turn ON. Cleaning all the module connectors with an electrical contact cleaner is also a good start.
What is your idle RPM when you are park while the transmission is in Drive? I am having a doubt it is an idle relearn issue.
I would suspect a sticking thermostat. For testing purpose you can remove and drive it to see how the temperature gauge functions. It may go up a little bit but most likely won’t reach the normal operating temperature. Also, this procedure is just for tesing, when you remove the thermostat you may notice that your idle is higher than normal. You can ignore that.
I would suggest checking few things like fuel pressure at the fuel rails, smoke testing for vacuum leak and doing a live data monitoring on the OBD tool to see the values are within the required range. Bad PCV valve can also cause the same effect as vacuum leak. Bad battery can cause weak starting but once started it should run fine if the charging system is functioning properly.
Is the misfire only on idle? Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
It would have easier to answer if you had mentioned for which vehicle and engine.
1) Yes, each engines are designed to take a specific grade of oil. Initially, fuel economy could be only difference you may see but over time it can cause premature wear to the internal parts of the engines. So, always stick to what the manufacturer recommends.
2) Yes, each engines can have different style of pumps but that doesn’t define the oil viscosity but the clearance used in engine bearings and other parts determine the recommended oil viscosity.
3) Performance not much but only the fuel immediately unless you use a widely different viscosity then it can effect the performance.
4) It is fine 0W30 or 5W30 if manufacturer recommends. Check your owner’s manual for this information.
5) Again, depends if the manufacturer recommends or not. Usually people switch to non synthetic or thicker oil as the engine gets older but I never did that. If you maintain it well, you don’t need to. If your engine is leaking oil, change the seal or gasket instead of using thicker oil or additive.
6) Not required.I would suggest testing for injector pulse signal. If there is a signal then injectors for operation noise. I am assuming you checked for spark already.
I would suggest to check when cold, test the starting then if it starts shut off the engine and manually warm up the ECU while monitoring the temperature then try starting to see if warmed up ECU is causing this fault or not.
Is it metallic noise? When the noise happens do you feel any vibration, or feel like a hesitation or something binding?
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