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Check manually with a multimeter if your steady 5V and ground is good with key ON, engine idle and transmission in Drive.
Take the reservoir cap off and turn the wheel left and right then observe if there is movement on the fluid. If there is then your pump is fine. Did you put original fluid or different brand? If different brand does it meet the GM specification?
I can’t understand how he blew both the keyfobs. Do you know what method he used to program the key?
Do you have access to OBD live data? I would start by checking the live data on that O2 sensor and then add some external fuel to check if the O2 sensor picks up the engine getting more fuel. If it does, then I would check for vacuum leaks or some hose connection on the intake pipe which may be loose after the air filter replacement. If the O2 sensor doesn’t detect then it is likely a bad O2 sensor.
It is not the in and out movement and clunk you should worry about but sideways movement and clunk. So when you hold then push and pull the shaft and if it makes a noise then there is problem. I wouldn’t worry about this if there is no clicking noise while turning or vibration during acceleration.
Usually after vacation I warm up the car well by driving it around then do a few hard accelerations close to the redline. That fixes my rough engine. Your spark plugs might have fouled up. If it doesn’t get better doing a spark plug replacement is a good start also check the condition of the plugs respective to the cylinders.
Do you have anything to check the fuel injector pulse duration or through OBD live data? I had a similar issue with a customer’s car where the datas were normal but the engine ran rich and failed emissions. That was caused by a faulty ECU giving longer pulse to the injector.
My next suspect would be a stuck open EGR valve. You can plug the vacuum hose going to the EGR and see if that improves.
Is your MAP reading positive on idle? It is supposed to be negative on idle as the intake has vacuum.
Try disconnecting sensors like MAF sensor and Throttle Position Sensor then check if the reading changes. Also, you can check if the exhaust fumes reduces or not.
I am suspecting it is a programming issue. Once you connect the diagnostic tool, try if you can enter the electronic power steering module, if you can then you most likely need programming.
Is the ignition timing correct? Does it have a vacuum timing advance? Does that hold vacuum and switch rotor angle?
If it was a cat failure, that should set a code with the high positive fuel trims. I would suspect something like a vacuum leak or anything causing the MAF sensor not to read the air flow. Is it possible for you to screenshot live data of MAF, TPS, MAP, etc sensor readings on idle here? Is your air intake pipe in good condition? Check the additional fittings like hose going to the crankcase, check if the fitting is loose.