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[quote=”college man” post=149474]see if this helps.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mastercylinderreplace/adjustment.html%5B/quote%5D
Tried that on day #1. I think this is one of those scenarios where maybe a parts person would know the answer, or someone who specifically knows if the ABS and non-ABS BB differ.
Thanks for trying.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=88910]It’s not in the neck, it’s in the tank. It’s called a roll over valve. It is the most common cause of problems of this type in my experience. It may be an issue with the new tank. There’re a lot of crap aftermarket parts out there. Especially for Hondas.[/quote]
Agreed. So they either cheaped out and bought a tank with no ball (which probably don’t exist as its a safety issue), or the ball in the new tank is faulty. I’ll make them rip the tank down again and verify this as I’m getting sick of gas coming out each time I fill the car.
Eric, you are the only one in 3 days of searching and asking who had an answer to this. Thank You & Stay dirty man!
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=88910]It’s not in the neck, it’s in the tank. It’s called a roll over valve. It is the most common cause of problems of this type in my experience. It may be an issue with the new tank. There’re a lot of crap aftermarket parts out there. Especially for Hondas.[/quote]
Agreed. So they either cheaped out and bought a tank with no ball (which probably don’t exist as its a safety issue), or the ball in the new tank is faulty. I’ll make them rip the tank down again and verify this as I’m getting sick of gas coming out each time I fill the car.
Eric, you are the only one in 3 days of searching and asking who had an answer to this. Thank You & Stay dirty man!
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=88884]I’m confused, is it an Accord or a Jeep thats having the issue?
That said, the roll over valve is actually in the tank and if it’s not in there or positioned correctly, it can cause issues when you fill up. BTW you really can’t install a filler neck without a vent tube, you’d never be able to fill it. I’m suspecting that your old vent tube was corroded and had holes, hence the P1456. They may have forgotten to install something when they did the tank, or the tank did not come with the required parts. Either way, I would suggest taking it back to where you had the tank installed to have them deal with the problem. I’m guessing that’s what you’re doing with the appointment you mentioned.
Keep us posted.[/quote]
Eric, I’ve been a fan since video #1 when you were in that small shop. Many thanks, big fan.
And yes, its an 2000 accord is the car I have. The jeep video is an example of the problem.
The car had a brand new tank and filler neck installed. The jeep video is the issue I now have with the accord. Agreed that you can’t buy filler necks without vent tubes.The shop had it today and they took the filler neck apart, blew air through it, made sure it was working properly. They checked that the caps were removed from the vent tubes too. We all understand the flap is there in the filler neck for rollovers.
So my question to you is; Does a 2000 accord has tank have a “float ball” like the Jeeps do in the gas tank neck area?
(picture = Jeep ball float for gas tank) OR how does a 2000 accord prevent “blow by” of gas as seen in the video?The only issue we could figure out is that the new tank has a stuck ball (assuming it has one). The shop and myself were confused on this topic. He claimed that the old tank had one, but doesn’t remember seeing it in the new tank and they are going to call their supplier tomorrow. So I got the car back with nothing fixed. He said if they need to they’ll drop the tank again.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=88884]I’m confused, is it an Accord or a Jeep thats having the issue?
That said, the roll over valve is actually in the tank and if it’s not in there or positioned correctly, it can cause issues when you fill up. BTW you really can’t install a filler neck without a vent tube, you’d never be able to fill it. I’m suspecting that your old vent tube was corroded and had holes, hence the P1456. They may have forgotten to install something when they did the tank, or the tank did not come with the required parts. Either way, I would suggest taking it back to where you had the tank installed to have them deal with the problem. I’m guessing that’s what you’re doing with the appointment you mentioned.
Keep us posted.[/quote]
Eric, I’ve been a fan since video #1 when you were in that small shop. Many thanks, big fan.
And yes, its an 2000 accord is the car I have. The jeep video is an example of the problem.
The car had a brand new tank and filler neck installed. The jeep video is the issue I now have with the accord. Agreed that you can’t buy filler necks without vent tubes.The shop had it today and they took the filler neck apart, blew air through it, made sure it was working properly. They checked that the caps were removed from the vent tubes too. We all understand the flap is there in the filler neck for rollovers.
So my question to you is; Does a 2000 accord has tank have a “float ball” like the Jeeps do in the gas tank neck area?
(picture = Jeep ball float for gas tank) OR how does a 2000 accord prevent “blow by” of gas as seen in the video?The only issue we could figure out is that the new tank has a stuck ball (assuming it has one). The shop and myself were confused on this topic. He claimed that the old tank had one, but doesn’t remember seeing it in the new tank and they are going to call their supplier tomorrow. So I got the car back with nothing fixed. He said if they need to they’ll drop the tank again.
I’m pretty sure Eric would know the answer to this. It’s kind of a technical question. Hope you are reading this Eric :whistle:
I’m pretty sure Eric would know the answer to this. It’s kind of a technical question. Hope you are reading this Eric :whistle:
[quote=”college man” post=86462]The ecu checks once a day on morning start up.[/quote]
Weird, It takes 7+ days for the light to come on. Probably many different conditions applying to this. Could also be a IMAP/solenoid issue as well.
But thanks for your help.
[quote=”college man” post=86462]The ecu checks once a day on morning start up.[/quote]
Weird, It takes 7+ days for the light to come on. Probably many different conditions applying to this. Could also be a IMAP/solenoid issue as well.
But thanks for your help.
Forgot to mention that I bought a new gas cap already from Honda. I guess the sloshing of gas around in the tank allows vapor in/out and thus causes the code.
Does anyone know how many km the ECU has the EVAP activate? (ie – why it takes so long for the check engine light to come on?)
thanks
Forgot to mention that I bought a new gas cap already from Honda. I guess the sloshing of gas around in the tank allows vapor in/out and thus causes the code.
Does anyone know how many km the ECU has the EVAP activate? (ie – why it takes so long for the check engine light to come on?)
thanks
[quote=”ourkid2000″ post=57409]Eric, what are you doing when you’re adjusting the “effective length of the rod”? Can’t really see but are you twisting the rod with your fingers (after loosening the jam nut)?[/quote]
Yes, the rod twists. Which shortens or lengthens it and changing the pedal’s catch point.
I can see how adjusting this incorrectly with a new clutch could break it as it will not fully engage or disengage. But at the same time it would make your pedal catch point really high or really low. My question is…, is it safe to adjust this to have your pedal catch point at the proper positio on worn clutches.
[quote=”ourkid2000″ post=57409]Eric, what are you doing when you’re adjusting the “effective length of the rod”? Can’t really see but are you twisting the rod with your fingers (after loosening the jam nut)?[/quote]
Yes, the rod twists. Which shortens or lengthens it and changing the pedal’s catch point.
I can see how adjusting this incorrectly with a new clutch could break it as it will not fully engage or disengage. But at the same time it would make your pedal catch point really high or really low. My question is…, is it safe to adjust this to have your pedal catch point at the proper positio on worn clutches.
First off, I’m a long time fan! Been watching ETCG since his first video! I just never came to the forum before.
In regards to the clutch master cylinder, I use to adjust this for cars that had worn/older clutches as the “catch point” when releasing the clutch would not be near the floor anymore. I had a mechanic tell me that I should not do this and I could hurt my clutch (but the reason I did it was because I hated having my clutch catch half way up). These were older cars of course and the clutch was past its half life.
Can anyone tell me why this may be a bad idea? Why is it adjustable in the first place with so much room for adjusting and if I was in the right or the wrong?
(I do realize that the clutch still has to fully engage/disengage but for older clutches it seems the pedal’s catch point rises towards you as it gets older. Is this adjustment for this issue?)
Thanks
First off, I’m a long time fan! Been watching ETCG since his first video! I just never came to the forum before.
In regards to the clutch master cylinder, I use to adjust this for cars that had worn/older clutches as the “catch point” when releasing the clutch would not be near the floor anymore. I had a mechanic tell me that I should not do this and I could hurt my clutch (but the reason I did it was because I hated having my clutch catch half way up). These were older cars of course and the clutch was past its half life.
Can anyone tell me why this may be a bad idea? Why is it adjustable in the first place with so much room for adjusting and if I was in the right or the wrong?
(I do realize that the clutch still has to fully engage/disengage but for older clutches it seems the pedal’s catch point rises towards you as it gets older. Is this adjustment for this issue?)
Thanks
