Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wcR_groyF7I&feature=youtu.be
OK I don’t know why I can’t get the link to post?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wcR_groyF7I&feature=youtu.be
OK I don’t know why I can’t get the link to post?
Here is a short video showing the issue. Sorry for bad sound, I know it is no where near E’s quality.
Here is a short video showing the issue. Sorry for bad sound, I know it is no where near E’s quality.
Just wondering if a slightly wobbling harmonic balancer could cause the issue’s I am having????
AH, let me see if I can still work my camera and I’ll post a video of it.Just wondering if a slightly wobbling harmonic balancer could cause the issue’s I am having????
AH, let me see if I can still work my camera and I’ll post a video of it.I know I said cold in the description, but it was at least 97 degrees outside when I first started the car that day.
No signs of leakage at exhaust manifold gasket or cracks in manifold(upstream O2 in the exhaust manifold).
The readings on the O2 seam to be slow or not a responsive as I would expect(usually they flip-flop +-+-+-quickly, mine just kind of hangs more – then will for a second go + then back – for a few)so maybe it starting to go out getting lazy readings not exactly sure what the response times should be for a single wire O2.Going to try like said removing O2 and checking vacuum in morning although it will give me the same results as when I disconnected the exhaust at the 2 pipesshown.
As far as checking actual fuel pressure with car running, I am waiting for a adapter I had to order, because Suzuki was not kind enough to place a Schrader valve in the line any where. And also which is really strange the manual says it uses manifold vacuum to regulate it but the regulator has no where to attach a vacuum line to it, so not sure if it uses some type of spring or sealed chamber to regulate it with(my car is June 95 and manual is for a 96, but hell should still be same).Every thing looks same except there is no #8 as shown in the image.
Personally I am kind of leaning towards O2 or TPS(SSOOOO hope not this so expensive), have replaced O2(50K and at 90K) twice in life of the car but they do go defective. Scares me that the TPS just doesn’t seam as smooth in its ranging as you think it would be. Also going to check in morning the IAC system, because don’t think it is cause of my issue but still AC on/off not only didn’t bump up the idle but at same time didn’t seam to cause any more of a load on the engine even though compressor was cycled on.
If you wonder why am so worried about it being the TPS read here because it is almost the same issue:
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/46011-maf-sensor-cost-huge-differences-whyI know I said cold in the description, but it was at least 97 degrees outside when I first started the car that day.
No signs of leakage at exhaust manifold gasket or cracks in manifold(upstream O2 in the exhaust manifold).
The readings on the O2 seam to be slow or not a responsive as I would expect(usually they flip-flop +-+-+-quickly, mine just kind of hangs more – then will for a second go + then back – for a few)so maybe it starting to go out getting lazy readings not exactly sure what the response times should be for a single wire O2.Going to try like said removing O2 and checking vacuum in morning although it will give me the same results as when I disconnected the exhaust at the 2 pipesshown.
As far as checking actual fuel pressure with car running, I am waiting for a adapter I had to order, because Suzuki was not kind enough to place a Schrader valve in the line any where. And also which is really strange the manual says it uses manifold vacuum to regulate it but the regulator has no where to attach a vacuum line to it, so not sure if it uses some type of spring or sealed chamber to regulate it with(my car is June 95 and manual is for a 96, but hell should still be same).Every thing looks same except there is no #8 as shown in the image.
Personally I am kind of leaning towards O2 or TPS(SSOOOO hope not this so expensive), have replaced O2(50K and at 90K) twice in life of the car but they do go defective. Scares me that the TPS just doesn’t seam as smooth in its ranging as you think it would be. Also going to check in morning the IAC system, because don’t think it is cause of my issue but still AC on/off not only didn’t bump up the idle but at same time didn’t seam to cause any more of a load on the engine even though compressor was cycled on.
If you wonder why am so worried about it being the TPS read here because it is almost the same issue:
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/46011-maf-sensor-cost-huge-differences-whyHere are a few screenshots of my scanner readings.
COLDWARM
WARM IN PARK RAISED RPM’S
IDLE/WARM IN DRIVE
Here are a few screenshots of my scanner readings.
COLDWARM
WARM IN PARK RAISED RPM’S
IDLE/WARM IN DRIVE
KK throttle body butterfly opened it and cleaned it out with shop rag and map sensor cleaner at same time sprayed off Air temp sensor(just for the heck of it). Haven’t removed the EGR yet but at idle if apply vacuum, it does nearly stall the engine(so assume it isn’t stuck open)and held vacuum so diaphragm not leaking. One thing I forgot to mention is that being that it seams to be more apparent when manifold is in a vacuum state(low RPMs and/or under load) I searched high and low for a vacuum leak and found none. When I depress the accelerator pedal there does seam to be like a dead spot but it is hard to tell if it is from worn TPS or just from the hesitation that is there at low RPM’s(really hope it not a TPS local parts store wants nearly $200 for it and it special order only).Pulled the CKS out today(easy on bottom of oil pan 10mm bolt) it had a little oil residue build up on it, but nothing that seamed that severe. 6 months ago replaced timing belt and water pump but thought that could not be the issue because at first it was intermittent(and jumped timing wouldn’t be). Now it not intermittent but still don’t think it has jumped timing. Until yesterday when I had it on the scanner(I might have miss read it) thought it was reading at 5 ATDC not 10 BTDC, but got pulled away and haven’t had a chance to double check that reading yet. But like I said jumped timing wouldn’t be intermittent I believe. Was wondering if the Knock sensor would advance the timing cause it does kind of knock when it is doing this? As far as test procedures for the Knock and TPS, kind of hard to find lately with Suzuki pulling out of the US marketplace. So if anyone has access to correct readings and procedures and would like to share them with me, I would be very thankful(otherwise I just have to assume how to and what they should be). Was also wondering could a faulty/lazy upstream O2 sensor cause it to act this way(again got pulled away but thought it was staying around -6% on the STFT when had it on the scanner for those few minutes)? Hope tomorrow to get the time to re-scan it and confirm some of these readings.
KK throttle body butterfly opened it and cleaned it out with shop rag and map sensor cleaner at same time sprayed off Air temp sensor(just for the heck of it). Haven’t removed the EGR yet but at idle if apply vacuum, it does nearly stall the engine(so assume it isn’t stuck open)and held vacuum so diaphragm not leaking. One thing I forgot to mention is that being that it seams to be more apparent when manifold is in a vacuum state(low RPMs and/or under load) I searched high and low for a vacuum leak and found none. When I depress the accelerator pedal there does seam to be like a dead spot but it is hard to tell if it is from worn TPS or just from the hesitation that is there at low RPM’s(really hope it not a TPS local parts store wants nearly $200 for it and it special order only).Pulled the CKS out today(easy on bottom of oil pan 10mm bolt) it had a little oil residue build up on it, but nothing that seamed that severe. 6 months ago replaced timing belt and water pump but thought that could not be the issue because at first it was intermittent(and jumped timing wouldn’t be). Now it not intermittent but still don’t think it has jumped timing. Until yesterday when I had it on the scanner(I might have miss read it) thought it was reading at 5 ATDC not 10 BTDC, but got pulled away and haven’t had a chance to double check that reading yet. But like I said jumped timing wouldn’t be intermittent I believe. Was wondering if the Knock sensor would advance the timing cause it does kind of knock when it is doing this? As far as test procedures for the Knock and TPS, kind of hard to find lately with Suzuki pulling out of the US marketplace. So if anyone has access to correct readings and procedures and would like to share them with me, I would be very thankful(otherwise I just have to assume how to and what they should be). Was also wondering could a faulty/lazy upstream O2 sensor cause it to act this way(again got pulled away but thought it was staying around -6% on the STFT when had it on the scanner for those few minutes)? Hope tomorrow to get the time to re-scan it and confirm some of these readings.
[quote=”Alex from Ky.” post=62358]….By the way is their any WRONG way to go into the automotive world?[/quote]
Yes, thinking that since you read all the books and pass the Cert. test that you know everything. Because the books don’t teach you real world application. I think only hands-on and seasoned mechanics around can pass these things on to you. Because all the certs. in the world wont teach and help your career out as much as that old grey haired bearded guy in the back of the shop. What is the best thing to take into this career…Open EYES, EARS, and MIND(my opinion).
