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“ignition module”
I think is in base of dist and looks ,like this
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://images.gasgoo.com/MiMwMDRfMDA0IzMxODcxMDAwMA–/auto-part-ignition-module-hm-019.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.gasgoo.com/showroom/hxqcpjc5/auto-products/15832.html&h=249&w=348&tbnid=k_je-euZnP47ZM:&zoom=1&docid=2e7X2n4UulTLdM&ei=-FvzVIeiIPPjsASo0ICQBA&tbm=isch&ved=0CDwQMygKMAoNo that is your coil
OK,wheew
The turn over to TDC #1 and check dist rotor pointing at #1 plug wire snug up dist bolt fire up and fine adj
Vale to piston collision can happen when cams and crank are allowed to move independently of each other, but if the cams and crank are linked they turn together(“valve timing”) and “Ignition timing”(distributor adjustment in your case) is when the plugs fire will allow run/no-run but not cause the type valve damage I think you are refuring to.These I am almost sure are interference engines and I would make sure the timing marks are aligned correctly before crank engine and if needed after setting the timing marks on crank and cam stab the dist since you will be at TDC #1
was the timing belt installed when you rotated the crank? If not NO!!!! DO NOT CRANK THE ENGINE.
What type engine(Chain or belt)? and were cam and crank linked when turned crank?
Well after much effort(including removal of intake 3 times) got it solved.Turns out the bottom injector o-rings that came in the gasket set from the engine re-builders, were not thick enough to create a good seal. Seal was strong enough to prevent detection by my smoke machine(1-7P.S.I.) but under full intake vacuum would allow leakage and then under boost would allow a seal. And of course only on cyl 2 and 3(which are hidden under the intake plenum). Changed all 4 with dealer o-rings and car idles like new :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:
THANKS ALL :cheer:yes on the plugs. And i think the idle is cause of 0300 because no misfire off idle. The fact that the rear o2 is not trying to compensate for the fronts 25% is strange and don’t know for sure but I doubt 9.4% is max for the rear to be able to adjust.
eventually it will set a P0300 after enough stumbles.
about 80K. And if motor mounts you think I would get it to do it when in drive power braking it, but I can’t.
about 80K. And if motor mounts you think I would get it to do it when in drive power braking it, but I can’t.
IDK but if your freezer has any frost build up in it I would at least give them a dose of WD-40 until you get them packed.
IDK but if your freezer has any frost build up in it I would at least give them a dose of WD-40 until you get them packed.
Sorry typo in first post, it’s a 87. But turns out a 89 civic has almost the same fork(just have to change out the pivot bolt as it takes a bigger one, but thankfully it has the same thread pattern) also had to ever so slightly heat and bend the tangs that keep the throwout bearing attached to the fork as the civic fork is a little bit thinner(mainly to insure there was no clatter from a loose bearing). But all went together perfect and shifts better then ever. So in the great words of some Eric guy “I’m gonna call this done”.lol.
Sorry typo in first post, it’s a 87. But turns out a 89 civic has almost the same fork(just have to change out the pivot bolt as it takes a bigger one, but thankfully it has the same thread pattern) also had to ever so slightly heat and bend the tangs that keep the throwout bearing attached to the fork as the civic fork is a little bit thinner(mainly to insure there was no clatter from a loose bearing). But all went together perfect and shifts better then ever. So in the great words of some Eric guy “I’m gonna call this done”.lol.
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