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Keep in mind that Sac county is a heavy agricultural area with allot of farmers who to attempt to save money and time work on they’re own equipment(or at least used to).
Here is a copy and paste of the code:Sacramento County Zoning Code
Effective September25, 2015
5.2.GENERAL STANDARDS AND EXCEPTIONS5.2.0.Prohibited Activities
5.2.0.B.Minor and Major Repair and Maintenance of Personal Vehicles: [AMENDED 04-07-2016] Minor vehicle repair shall include brake part replacement, minor tune-up, change of oil and filter, repair of flat tire, lubrication and other similar operations. Major automobile repair or maintenance shall include any vehicle repair and maintenance other than the listed operations, including body or painting work of vehicle or vehicle parts. It shall be unlawful for any person to engage in or permit others to engage in minor vehicle repair or maintenance in any agricultural, agricultural-residential, residential, interim estate, and interim residential zoning district under any of the circumstances described in Section 5.2.0.B.1 through 3.
1.Using tools not normally found in a residence;
2.Conducted on vehicles registered to persons not currently residing on the lot or parcel; and
3.Conducted outside a fully enclosed garage and resulting in any vehicle being inoperable for a period in excess of 24 hours. It shall be unlawful for any person to engage in, or permit others to engage in, major repair or maintenance of vehicles in any agricultural, agricultural-residential, residential, interim agricultural holding, interim estate or interim residential zone.OK so lets talk about this
1)using tools not normally found in a residence;Tools normally found in who’s home? my normal tools may very from your normal tools WHO DECIDES?
2)Conducted on vehicles registered to persons not currently residing on the lot or parcel; and So no more working on dod or moms car at your house or no more mobile mechanics like a CAT service truck?
3)conducted outside a fully enclosed garage and resulting in any vehicle being inoperable for a period in excess of 24 hours. What happens when you need to order a part that parts stored may not stock?
It shall be unlawful for any person to engage in, or permit others to engage in, major repair or maintenance of vehicles in any agricultural, Are you ready for vegi’s and fruit prices to increase due to farmers increase in operating expenses(have to pay to transport farm equipment to a authorized repair facility and pay for those repairs, not to mention the down time now involved)So I guess that will be the end of building a hot rod or crawler, ect…
No more going to junkyard and getting a used engine tranny, ect and swapping at home yourself to save money. And how much will it cost shops now to be approved for such repairs to be preformed.I know it mostly to do with zoning of property, but hell I bought my property shouldn’t I be able to do(within reason) what I wish on MY PROPERTY? And 48 hours to remove a unregistered or disabled(not sure which or both they meant), hell it takes longer then that to get estimates from shops arrange, towing, find the money, ect…
So now police are going to be driving around and if you have a car up on jack stands and there is no oil drain bucket under it you will get cited or worse.
And you know if it starts in CA other states will pick it up.The PP4 has a injector control wire tester built into it, it is pretty cool when it works. But I will try a test light also or maybe even break out the niod lights
Well went with the IV and got the PPECT kit also. Very pleased so far, except 1 lil issue. In the 4conector plug(big square 2×2 plug) for the batt clips, is a hidden fuse that until you talk to tech-support you don’t know it is there.
Fuse is molded(UN-replaceable) into this piece shown below.And I beg to differ, but very useful in locating a malfunctioning Fuel injector just look below.
These “Time-Sert” tools are the bee’s knees! Just found out bout them this week, when had to repair a broken banjo-bolt for the oil cooler to the turbo of a 03 Pt Cruiser. Really didn’t want to use a “Heli-Coil” in this case. So stumbled across “Time-Sert” being sold on “Amazon.com”. Never had used one before and was unsure if wanted to drop a bill on the kit. So you can understand my excitement when I discovered Dam they are made right here in my city. So went down there and they were very helpful. Took the turbo with me and as soon as walked in the door they immediately got a tech to come and assist me. Took his caliper measured a few things, went grabbed the kit I would need, and told me step by step how to use it. And being the type of hole it was he told me where I would run into a issue and how to get thru it. Was very pleased with they’re service, knowledge, and with the product. Maybe a little more cost the a “Heli-Coil”, but a far superior product in my opinion. I will never use a “Heli-Coil” again.
KK took them apart again and adjusted again(no rear adjust slots so have to remove drum to adjust) and no change.
As far as the other part, being that it is a Subaru with AWD it is like impossible to do a rolling stop to produce the sound. Not to mention have to keep resetting the ABS light as it trips it with car up on the liftHave checked all that, it is weird because connection log shows it connected but not able to retrieve any info.
OK, finally got to use it and I am :cheer: :silly: :silly: :woohoo: :cheer: over it.It took a Dodge Charger w/2.7L which anyone who knows they can be a *****(female mutt) to bleed the cooling system. And was done in 10 minutes. 1 lesson learned tho is the coolant pick-up has to be attached or you build no vacuum. But my god what a difference. You gotta try it Eric!!
Also the kit I got is from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/FJC-43610-Radiator-Coolant-Vacuum/dp/B00804HWOU/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=51DQ2KvyNuL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR159%2C160_&refRID=0JB1WNG9JZZTGEK68YS7Jasonw1178 The mil comes and goes but either set or pending the P0300 code remains and now some times brings a buddy like a P0302 or 305 and now it has added a (not at the shop so cant remember the exact code but was something along the lines of MAP or MAF signal range) so a connection I assume but that is new and probably from me poking around.
Sorry no reply in a week+ but had problems getting onto ETCG site. But Support@EricTheCarGuy.com did a great job of fixing it. THANKS
MDK22 I believe all that you ask for is in my original post (yr make model eng issue)Ya read thru that and every link from there to other pages and their links to even more pages nothing that helps me. Guess going to have to break down and pay TechAuthority® for the info.
OK, first off THANKS college man, and as far as codes pre-repair there was P0400 and P0171 post repair there are no set or pending codes being displayed. Have replaced fuel cap repaired filler neck leak and replaced intake gasket because of leak. Smoke test with vent commanded shut shows no leaks, but when KOER it says EVAP leak test failed but still no set or pending codes. So maybe the scanner is saying failed because it hasn’t run the monitor yet(IDK). And I know it wont run the monitor if it fails something prior to time to run the monitor. I am just at a loss as to what might be causing it to fail and prevent the monitors from running, the car runs great and cold starts you can hear the SecAir pump running along with good short and long term fuel trim numbers( cold 3.4%stft 7.8ltft-warm 0%stft 7.3%ltft on average).
And just a little fyi that is my problem, is that the car has expired tags and DMV won’t extend any more moving permits to him so that makes it allot more fun trying to drive-cycle this car.Really burns my hide when people get the first 30 day permit and then wait till the last 2 days of it to bring it in. But like I said that is my venting.Pull #1 plug and push a piece of toilet paper(i use) in the plug tube turn crank until you see the paper blow that will mean you on the compression stroke, then take something(preferably soft but but firm) that is long and skinny (I use a screw driver but go slow and make sure it doesn’t get wedged in there. And turn crank till the driver starts to go back down(highest point is TDC). Now mark on crank should be at 0 degrees on the timing covers timing hash marks and dist rotor should be pointing at #1 plug dist cap contact.
That should allow start up and if so allow to run a few minutes to warm up and then final check your timing to adjust to spec.Here maybe this help
http://i.fixya.net/uploads/images/michael_cass_630.jpg
