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hey,
while at the intake manifold/injector rail, i decided to check the wiring harnesses, to my suprise the Idle motor connector had repaired wires, one with just 2 strands of copper still making contact, repaired this and continued reinstalling the injector rail (got a kit that had new seals, the plastic tip and the accompanying plastic washer (had to buy 2 kits cause were for 4 bangers), verified no intake leaks, while doing this i realised something, the connector for the crank position sensor (engine only has this rotation sensor), the sensor wire connetor was loose in the engine harness connector… with slight movement, i would get the rough revving problem…. turns out the connector is missing the metal clip that secures the connection>>> nothing a paper clip and two pliers cant fix…. not pretty bends, but it holds the connection securely and releases when the made up metal clip is pressed…. strangely the intermittent loss of crank sensor signal trouble code was not triggered (code 19) … i am puzzled at the simple fix… but it worked, the engine revvs smoothly and when held at various revvs, does not die down, actually when held at a constant revv, i can see the varying rich and lean cycles on the oxygen sensor….thanks for your attention…. sometimes the fix is not as straight forward…. at least i got clean injectors now 😉
warm regards
R-vinhey,
while at the intake manifold/injector rail, i decided to check the wiring harnesses, to my suprise the Idle motor connector had repaired wires, one with just 2 strands of copper still making contact, repaired this and continued reinstalling the injector rail (got a kit that had new seals, the plastic tip and the accompanying plastic washer (had to buy 2 kits cause were for 4 bangers), verified no intake leaks, while doing this i realised something, the connector for the crank position sensor (engine only has this rotation sensor), the sensor wire connetor was loose in the engine harness connector… with slight movement, i would get the rough revving problem…. turns out the connector is missing the metal clip that secures the connection>>> nothing a paper clip and two pliers cant fix…. not pretty bends, but it holds the connection securely and releases when the made up metal clip is pressed…. strangely the intermittent loss of crank sensor signal trouble code was not triggered (code 19) … i am puzzled at the simple fix… but it worked, the engine revvs smoothly and when held at various revvs, does not die down, actually when held at a constant revv, i can see the varying rich and lean cycles on the oxygen sensor….thanks for your attention…. sometimes the fix is not as straight forward…. at least i got clean injectors now 😉
warm regards
R-vinhi,
the car is a brazil made Omega A (GM), i know in england they had this car as the Vauxhall Carlton, Germany as the Opel Omega A, here in 93 brasil GM started selling the Omega A under the Chevrolet make (completely assembled in brasil), mine particularly is the station wagon body called the Chevrolet Suprema here….
i just removed the injector rail, verified that the fuel is being sent on the inlet to the rail and the return line functions as a return line >>>> i`m here in brasil and i could not believe the quality of mechanics…99% were professionals with the VW beatle and the associated technology….. when i got this car, injectors #3 and #4 were inverted, as well as many wires cut under the dash, others stripped without being reinsulated, one in particular was next to the brake pedal and would spark every time i applied the brakes, the rear air suspension for automatic leveling or the car (rear) when carrying cargo, the air pump for this system does not work, why??? a hose from the water spray bottle was connected to its intake… no wonder the air bags blew out…..back to the injectors, most have the plastic cover on the injector tip broken, for #5 and #6 >> missing completely… what effect would this have?
hi,
the car is a brazil made Omega A (GM), i know in england they had this car as the Vauxhall Carlton, Germany as the Opel Omega A, here in 93 brasil GM started selling the Omega A under the Chevrolet make (completely assembled in brasil), mine particularly is the station wagon body called the Chevrolet Suprema here….
i just removed the injector rail, verified that the fuel is being sent on the inlet to the rail and the return line functions as a return line >>>> i`m here in brasil and i could not believe the quality of mechanics…99% were professionals with the VW beatle and the associated technology….. when i got this car, injectors #3 and #4 were inverted, as well as many wires cut under the dash, others stripped without being reinsulated, one in particular was next to the brake pedal and would spark every time i applied the brakes, the rear air suspension for automatic leveling or the car (rear) when carrying cargo, the air pump for this system does not work, why??? a hose from the water spray bottle was connected to its intake… no wonder the air bags blew out…..back to the injectors, most have the plastic cover on the injector tip broken, for #5 and #6 >> missing completely… what effect would this have?
if your back is against the wall, try something un-orthodox…..does any one think that using an arc welding rod down inside of the deep aluminium hole to weld onto the broken stud to try and turn it out….providing that the piece of the stud is not tight on its threads…some welding skill will be required and if available, car batteries have been used for stick welding with the jumper leads….something to think about….but you risk wrecking the head if you weld too much….may be left for a professional….
hi,
The Valvoline Max Life has been my choice of oil for my GM vehicle…1996 Opel/Vaxuhall OmegaB….with this oil i did not encounter any problems as i did before with other brands ( i have not used any synthetics..)..hi again,
there was something that i forgot to mention,..the rear control arms on the 626, particularly the ones running from front to the back (not the ones on the rear sub frame going side to side) are prone to bending, especially if the car is raised with the weight of the car resting on this arm…from our experience, it happens regularly at tire shops where they raise the vehicle quickly using a trolley jack at the rear jacking points….if the saucer of the trolley jack catches this arm, it will be bent while lifting the car..
when a straight bar is bent, it becomes shorter, pulling the wheel forward a little bit, with the side to side control arms being rigid, the rear toe adjustment could be thrown off slightly and over time the tires cut out on the inside…this shift in the wheel is barely noticeable at the wheel well…but when you have had a car just as long as we have and do the kind of mileage we do on a daily basis…the life of the bushings are cut short… and under disassembly everything seems to be under a strain…and you need more force during re-assembly….
at the time our wheel alignment went out and the tires cut out on the inside slightly (we did not leave the situation un addressed for too long to become a problem)…using a pipe wrench and a hydraulic press, i straightened the control arms….
the cupping would surely be from worn out shock absorbers…if you can inspect the shock heads for cracks / rips in the rubber, if they are really bad, while the car is being lowered onto the ground, the centre portion will be stretched upward a lot more than normal…but here in trinidad, guys would have broken the springs before this happened…but these were guys that drove the 626 untill it could not go any more…sometimes years before this happened despite all the noise,vibrations,oil smoke, oil leaks…very reliable car, very very reliable…hi,
glad to know that your problem was a simple one and easily resolved….i own a 96 Omega B with the X20XEV engine and i had two major problems…1. the fuel pump…it would work and then not work…this was substituted with a pump from a toyota vehicle, though i never ran the tank below 20 liters for fear that the suction bag of the pump is not all the way to the bottom of the tank,,, i never got around to experimenting to see at what level i would stop receiving fuel…2. when the timing belt was replaced, a dowell that is used to hold in the 10mm fastener for the front cover, is also used to centralise the cam sensor, i did not realise this and a few months down the road, i encountered a problem, it went into limp home mode, it was switched off and restarted, it was fine…the code for a faulty cam sensor was pulled, i bought one to replace it, and under removal i discovered the problem…also any speck of metal would be attracted to the small magnet of the sensor..if metal filings accumulate…it can cause sensor problems…
the crank sensor is used to give the computer the crank shaft speed, and the cam sensor is used to fine tune the ignition spark timing per cylinder and also is used in the computer processing to activate the injectors at the correct time…together with the ignition knock sensor to give the spark at the appropriate moment for best fuel economy and sometimes power also…
hi,
i installed a similar type locking/unlocking kit in my VH Holden Commodore (from australia)….
if you purchased a kit, it should have come with a box that has a lot of wires on a connector that jacks into it…there should be a red wire with a fuse holder on the end of it and a black wire, red being batt 12V+ and the black being ground….there should be 4 green wires and 4 blue wires…these should be allocated in pairs…one for each door (assuming it was a 4 door kit you got)…usually the kit would come with 3 solenoids that are two wire (green and blue) and a 5 wire solenoid that is destined for the driver`s door …it has the blue and green wires as well as 3 others which serve for the automatic locking and unlocking of the other doors of the car when the driver locks or unlocks his door….also on this box, on the connector there should be 3 other wires for connection to an alarm remote control (if your kit did not come with remotes) and to the hazard circuit of the car to flash the indicator lights when the car is locked/unlocked (this is advised to be connected with a diode, to prevent damage to the circuitry of the lock /unlock control box….)as a word of advice, carefully observe the locking and locking mechanisms within each door of your car, what i encountered with my car,,,,when locking the doors with the solenoids, when the front doors locked, the back doors unlocked…and vice versa….this was a simple solution…on the solenoids of either the front doors or the back doors should be connected in the opposite colour code..based on the flashing of the indicators (if connected..one for locking the car and two for unlocking…if your kit is similar to what i installed)
i hope this was of some assistancehi,
i`ve been messing around a lot with this series of car…the 626/telstar…
for the 1986 model, we have re drilled the rear shock tower to accept the complete rear strut from the later model 626 that had a 3 stud shock head…and currently we have a 1987 ford telstar TX-5 (hatch back), which is identical mechanically to the 86` 626, with similar struts installed, but from the 626 wagon model…possibly from 1989 onward….also both cars have accepted the complete front struts from the later 626 as well…and what i do know is that the shock absorbers from the later model to the GC (around 1986) usually test good on a bounce test, but are really worn out if you get an uncomfortable ride….if left in the car for a long time, when they are replaced, you can actually see the chrome shaft being discoloured by heat around the half way of the shock shaft….also on these shocks, i rarely have seen oil leaking out of them (providing you always had good dust boots and the factory buffer rubber installed). what i believe happens with them is the internal valve that regulates the flow of the shock oil within the shock becomes defective, but still offers resistance to flow, so that under a bounce test, the shock seems fine….
As for tires, personally we have used practically any and all brands of tires available without ride issues….even light van/truck tires at some point…LOL.the only regret i have is the avalibility of a better engine and auto tranny….these cars were imported to my country with a 1.8L engine and a 3 speed tranny…..very under powered, but very reliable…..verrry reliable….
on another note, these cars are prone to heavy corrosion around the rear fender wheel wells, i have seen some models heavily corroded to the point that the part of the shock tower that the struts bolt to, start tilting inward, causing the rear wheels to ride just on the inside edge…in my country, these cars are taken to a welding shop, where the corroded parts are cut out and sheeted off and in most cases, body jacks used to get the shock towers straight again before welding is done….gas tank removed of course…LOL.
Most guys also fabricate a rear shock tower strut brace, to help the shock towers from tilting inward….i`m not saying that this is the case of your car, and this sort of repair (if needed) is appropriate for / street legal where you live…but it is a common problem where i am, my dad`s 1986 626 is no longer on the road because of this problem and we chose not to perform the typical repair i mentioned above, which is very very common in my country…
[b]hi,
possibly the liquid could be rain water comming from the sun roof drain hoses (there should be 4 of them in the 4 corners of the vehicle hood/roof, passing thru the door posts to a drain point some where below….
or from the A/C system if the evaporator drain hose is clogged…when was the last time you saw water dripping out of the A/C drain hose?
or from the heater core/ heater hoses…pressure test your cooling system with the heater control on….
do you have a beverage cooler between the front seats…possible source of the liquid….i hope this is of some assistance[/b]
hi,
check out my video on how to check the engine timing on the Grandfather Ecotec engine…from 1996…. an original engine option for a 96` Opel Omega…from Germany…a German outpost of GM.
20091014_135253.mpg
cast iron block, has the oil filter mounted right out front, well laid out, easy to work on (though up till now all i did was the timing belt change, oil changes and changed a cam sensor…which turned out to be fully functional…i did not realise that a dowel bolt from the plastic timing belt cover was used to centralise the cam sensor….over all a Gr8 engine….Glad that GM kept it on the drawing board and probably perfected it by now….though didnt really have much to perfect in the first place.