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ended up replacing both front wheel bearings. Also ended up replacing the front brake pads/rotors and front struts/strut mounts since that stuff needed to be done as well and it seemed like a good time to do it. The noise is gone but I’m still not entirely positive that it was the old wheel bearings that were causing the noise. Whatevs… problems fixed now and she rides like a brand new car again.
try using a combination of the methods you tried. Possibly stick a puller on it and impact the puller while someone hits the arm with a hammer and torches it. Maybe even spray some penetrating oil on there and let that soak in for awhile too.
Before you give up just think how much of a B&*( it’s gonna be to replace the whole steering shaft.
try using a combination of the methods you tried. Possibly stick a puller on it and impact the puller while someone hits the arm with a hammer and torches it. Maybe even spray some penetrating oil on there and let that soak in for awhile too.
Before you give up just think how much of a B&*( it’s gonna be to replace the whole steering shaft.
$125 diagnostic fee is pretty hefty for a warranty claim, especially when they don’t know what they’re actually looking for. They could plug a scanner in and find the problem right away or they might need to probe around a little and do other tests as well. $125 up front sounds kinda greedy to me.
It also depends on your warranty though. Powertrain warranties only really cover catastrophic failures in the engine and transmission for the most part. It doesn’t cover stuff like clogged fuel filters or bad glow plugs, bad turbos, etc.
That said, I would bring it to the dealership and convey your belief that it’s an internal engine problem. They check it for free this way. Just keep pulling the warranty card if they try to charge you something.
Also when they come back with a list of stuff they found wrong with the vehicle, be sure to take that list to the independent euro shop that JS mentioned to have them double check the dealer’s findings. Dealer techs hate warranty work in general and it’s not that uncommon for them to “find” other issues to try to make money off the warranty job.
$125 diagnostic fee is pretty hefty for a warranty claim, especially when they don’t know what they’re actually looking for. They could plug a scanner in and find the problem right away or they might need to probe around a little and do other tests as well. $125 up front sounds kinda greedy to me.
It also depends on your warranty though. Powertrain warranties only really cover catastrophic failures in the engine and transmission for the most part. It doesn’t cover stuff like clogged fuel filters or bad glow plugs, bad turbos, etc.
That said, I would bring it to the dealership and convey your belief that it’s an internal engine problem. They check it for free this way. Just keep pulling the warranty card if they try to charge you something.
Also when they come back with a list of stuff they found wrong with the vehicle, be sure to take that list to the independent euro shop that JS mentioned to have them double check the dealer’s findings. Dealer techs hate warranty work in general and it’s not that uncommon for them to “find” other issues to try to make money off the warranty job.
[quote=”barneyb” post=105048]You had the axle out and rotated the hub by hand?[/quote]
yup
I’m pretty close to just saying screw it and replacing the bearing. The only thing that sucks is I gotta tear the a-arm out at the house, find a ride to work(which is easier said than done when you live 35 min away from work.), and press the bearing out there. Other than that I’m down to throw $25 at a new bearing at this point.
Unless there’s something I should know about in the trans… I probably should have just pulled the whole inner axle out while I had the one end off but I didn’t think about it. I replaced the axle seals, and the trans “filter”/gasket in the used trans I installed. I also flushed it out with nissan k-matic fluid (12 quarts of that stuff is not cheap).
[quote=”barneyb” post=105048]You had the axle out and rotated the hub by hand?[/quote]
yup
I’m pretty close to just saying screw it and replacing the bearing. The only thing that sucks is I gotta tear the a-arm out at the house, find a ride to work(which is easier said than done when you live 35 min away from work.), and press the bearing out there. Other than that I’m down to throw $25 at a new bearing at this point.
Unless there’s something I should know about in the trans… I probably should have just pulled the whole inner axle out while I had the one end off but I didn’t think about it. I replaced the axle seals, and the trans “filter”/gasket in the used trans I installed. I also flushed it out with nissan k-matic fluid (12 quarts of that stuff is not cheap).
[quote=”barneyb” post=105043]To eliminate tire sounds, rotate that tire to the rear. I had the same symptoms a couple of years ago, did this and the noise was now in the rear.[/quote]
tires are brand new. Rotated the tires anyway just to be sure though. Should have added that. Also gave it a 4 wheel alignment myself. All alignment is in spec.
yea the howling increases with speed. I also tried coasting in neutral and downshifting to see if the noise would change but it didn’t.
[quote=”barneyb” post=105043]To eliminate tire sounds, rotate that tire to the rear. I had the same symptoms a couple of years ago, did this and the noise was now in the rear.[/quote]
tires are brand new. Rotated the tires anyway just to be sure though. Should have added that. Also gave it a 4 wheel alignment myself. All alignment is in spec.
yea the howling increases with speed. I also tried coasting in neutral and downshifting to see if the noise would change but it didn’t.
you have to attach it as a file if you’re uploading it from your computer. Look at the bottom of the box you’re typing your reply in and click the box labeled “add file”.
you have to attach it as a file if you’re uploading it from your computer. Look at the bottom of the box you’re typing your reply in and click the box labeled “add file”.
your rpms are fluctuating because your compressor is NOT kicking on. I’m guessing you paid for a diagnosis and the tech found that your high side pressure switch was faulty. This is more than likely what’s causing your a/c not to work. just follow your a/c lines and you’ll run into a “sensor” looking thing poking out of the line with I think 3 wires coming out of it. Once you find it, double check that it’s on the high side line (the line with the larger quick connect fitting). Be careful not to twist or bend the line so much that you could break it or cause problems while you’re removing the switch. Once you replace the switch then take your car back to the mechanic so that he can do an evac and recharge.
your rpms are fluctuating because your compressor is NOT kicking on. I’m guessing you paid for a diagnosis and the tech found that your high side pressure switch was faulty. This is more than likely what’s causing your a/c not to work. just follow your a/c lines and you’ll run into a “sensor” looking thing poking out of the line with I think 3 wires coming out of it. Once you find it, double check that it’s on the high side line (the line with the larger quick connect fitting). Be careful not to twist or bend the line so much that you could break it or cause problems while you’re removing the switch. Once you replace the switch then take your car back to the mechanic so that he can do an evac and recharge.
also you can’t replace the high side pressure sensor without discharging the refrigerant in the system (if there is any).
I’m guessing this is a correct picture of your engine:
The box in the front there is the resonator. There should be a hose clamp holding onto the throttle body inlet. You’ll need to get a screwdriver or socket in there to loosen it. I don’t believe you can actually turn the clamp though because of rubber “dimples” that stick up through the clamp. Although it SHOULD be situated so that it’s easy enough to get to with a screwdriver.
be careful not to damage your MAF sensor when you’re removing the resonator.
that said, I would think that you would be throwing some kind of code if you’re getting hesitation. Post your codes so that we might help properly diagnose the issue. You might not have to do anything with the throttle body.
also you can’t replace the high side pressure sensor without discharging the refrigerant in the system (if there is any).
I’m guessing this is a correct picture of your engine:
The box in the front there is the resonator. There should be a hose clamp holding onto the throttle body inlet. You’ll need to get a screwdriver or socket in there to loosen it. I don’t believe you can actually turn the clamp though because of rubber “dimples” that stick up through the clamp. Although it SHOULD be situated so that it’s easy enough to get to with a screwdriver.
be careful not to damage your MAF sensor when you’re removing the resonator.
that said, I would think that you would be throwing some kind of code if you’re getting hesitation. Post your codes so that we might help properly diagnose the issue. You might not have to do anything with the throttle body.