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Viewing 15 replies - 31 through 45 (of 408 total)
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  • in reply to: over heating #617528
    JoeJoe
    Participant

      when you replaced the hoses and radiator and such did there look like there was a lot of corrosion in the system? if so then your water pump “fins” could be corroded away and not pumping the coolant like it should. Generally there will be some coolant coming out of the “weep hole” on the water pump if this is the case but not all the time.

      If you can get your hands on a coolant pressure tester it would help a lot. Hook it up and run your engine to see if it’s building up to 15-16 psi. Also pressurize your system with the engine off and see if your system is holding pressure properly.

      in reply to: over heating #608475
      JoeJoe
      Participant

        when you replaced the hoses and radiator and such did there look like there was a lot of corrosion in the system? if so then your water pump “fins” could be corroded away and not pumping the coolant like it should. Generally there will be some coolant coming out of the “weep hole” on the water pump if this is the case but not all the time.

        If you can get your hands on a coolant pressure tester it would help a lot. Hook it up and run your engine to see if it’s building up to 15-16 psi. Also pressurize your system with the engine off and see if your system is holding pressure properly.

        in reply to: Something about Coolants #617521
        JoeJoe
        Participant

          a lot of manufacturers are using special coolants these days because of all the plastic pieces being used in cooling systems now. Using the wrong type of coolant can eat away at these plastics and cause them to degrade and break.

          in reply to: Something about Coolants #608469
          JoeJoe
          Participant

            a lot of manufacturers are using special coolants these days because of all the plastic pieces being used in cooling systems now. Using the wrong type of coolant can eat away at these plastics and cause them to degrade and break.

            in reply to: New car for college commute? #617507
            JoeJoe
            Participant

              keep what you got man. Trust me you’ll be glad you don’t have a car payment when it comes time to go do stuff with your friends, and you’ll still have to work on any of the cars you listed as well.

              in reply to: New car for college commute? #608456
              JoeJoe
              Participant

                keep what you got man. Trust me you’ll be glad you don’t have a car payment when it comes time to go do stuff with your friends, and you’ll still have to work on any of the cars you listed as well.

                in reply to: Honda Harmonic Damper Crankshaft Pulley Tool #617322
                JoeJoe
                Participant

                  yea the balancer holder does just that. Holds the balancer so that you can loosen the balancer bolt without turning the crank. If your car is up on jack stands you could do what I’ve done a few times… wedge something against the flywheel to keep the crank from turning.

                  in reply to: Honda Harmonic Damper Crankshaft Pulley Tool #608273
                  JoeJoe
                  Participant

                    yea the balancer holder does just that. Holds the balancer so that you can loosen the balancer bolt without turning the crank. If your car is up on jack stands you could do what I’ve done a few times… wedge something against the flywheel to keep the crank from turning.

                    in reply to: Carb iddle issue, Chev 350 #617315
                    JoeJoe
                    Participant

                      I’m going to guess you’ve just got a decent-sized vac leak and it’s basically operating like the throttle plate is wide open.

                      Silicone up the dizzy advance vac port and make sure it’s not leaking. Also check and make sure your vac lines are all hooked up to the right ports and that they aren’t broken or anything. Double check your throttle cable and make sure it’s set up right.

                      If you can block off the top of the carb and smoke the system it would probably make troubleshooting a lot easier. I’m thinking it’s most likely an issue with a vacuum leak(s) but it could also be a problem with your throttle cable.

                      in reply to: Carb iddle issue, Chev 350 #608268
                      JoeJoe
                      Participant

                        I’m going to guess you’ve just got a decent-sized vac leak and it’s basically operating like the throttle plate is wide open.

                        Silicone up the dizzy advance vac port and make sure it’s not leaking. Also check and make sure your vac lines are all hooked up to the right ports and that they aren’t broken or anything. Double check your throttle cable and make sure it’s set up right.

                        If you can block off the top of the carb and smoke the system it would probably make troubleshooting a lot easier. I’m thinking it’s most likely an issue with a vacuum leak(s) but it could also be a problem with your throttle cable.

                        in reply to: Honda Harmonic Damper Crankshaft Pulley Tool #617311
                        JoeJoe
                        Participant

                          possibly. If you have a good impact gun then you don’t need any of that. Honda tends to torque the living dog S*($ out of their balancer bolts though. If the balancer has never been removed before then you might end up needing a holding tool and a good breaker bar… if you don’t have a good impact gun.

                          in reply to: Honda Harmonic Damper Crankshaft Pulley Tool #608264
                          JoeJoe
                          Participant

                            possibly. If you have a good impact gun then you don’t need any of that. Honda tends to torque the living dog S*($ out of their balancer bolts though. If the balancer has never been removed before then you might end up needing a holding tool and a good breaker bar… if you don’t have a good impact gun.

                            in reply to: Properly recharging AC system #617309
                            JoeJoe
                            Participant

                              is there pressure in the gauge set by chance? If the system was open then there should be 0 pressure in the lines.

                              TBH you should replace the receiver/dryer like karl said. They’re like $30 and will save your $3-400 compressor you just bought. You also left the system open for a couple of days. I’m willing to bet there’s a ton of moisture buildup in the receiver/dryer.

                              In my experience the clutch usually goes bad because the bearings in the compressor were going bad. You should ALWAYS replace the receiver/dryer when you replace the compressor. you should also replace the orifice tube (like $2). Especially on fords where the o-rings tend to come apart and get caught up in the tube.

                              in reply to: Properly recharging AC system #608262
                              JoeJoe
                              Participant

                                is there pressure in the gauge set by chance? If the system was open then there should be 0 pressure in the lines.

                                TBH you should replace the receiver/dryer like karl said. They’re like $30 and will save your $3-400 compressor you just bought. You also left the system open for a couple of days. I’m willing to bet there’s a ton of moisture buildup in the receiver/dryer.

                                In my experience the clutch usually goes bad because the bearings in the compressor were going bad. You should ALWAYS replace the receiver/dryer when you replace the compressor. you should also replace the orifice tube (like $2). Especially on fords where the o-rings tend to come apart and get caught up in the tube.

                                in reply to: possible wheel bearing issue #617268
                                JoeJoe
                                Participant

                                  ended up replacing both front wheel bearings. Also ended up replacing the front brake pads/rotors and front struts/strut mounts since that stuff needed to be done as well and it seemed like a good time to do it. The noise is gone but I’m still not entirely positive that it was the old wheel bearings that were causing the noise. Whatevs… problems fixed now and she rides like a brand new car again.

                                Viewing 15 replies - 31 through 45 (of 408 total)
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