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is the check engine light on?
does it have a very slow start like the battery is weak? or does it just crank and crank and crank without actually firing up
I would check that your intake tubing is all connected properly and that your mass air flow (MAF) sensor is connected and working properly. this is a sensor in the end of the intake tube by the air filter box. Also make sure your throttle position sensor (TPS) is connected and that your throttle body is clean and not sticking. Just take the tube off and open and close the throttle body with your finger. if it’s kinda rough to open or close and/or it sticks at any point (it should close all the way on it’s own), then it would be a good idea to spray and wipe it down with a good throttle body cleaner
what specifically did you replace for the tune-up?
did you disconnect the battery while working on the car?
check everything in the ignition circuit. since the wire was open then I’m guessing something cut/pinched it. make sure your ignition fuse(s) is/are good.
It would also be good to have your ignition control module and crankshaft position sensor checked out. Pretty sure most autozones and such still have equipment to check the ign module. You’ll have to get in there with a test light/logic probe to check the CPS.
you could start by checking and making sure there isn’t a bunch of stuff in your condenser (bugs and such). also make sure your cooling fans are working properly.
Otherwise you’ll have to take it to a professional to have it properly diagnosed.
the water leak on the door is a weatherstripping issue. Take your door panel off and spray the window with a water hose and see if you can see exactly where the water is leaking past.
The roof leak is a little more tricky. Chances are there is an area around the rear window that is letting water through, but there’s also the chance that there is a small crack(s) around the pinch welds for the roof. These are located under the long plastic covers on your roof.
You could try taking it to the Honda dealer. I can’t find any TSBs or recalls involving this sort of thing, but there’s no reason not to just inquire about it. Just ask them to check it out next time you take your car in for an oil change.
generally cheaper rotors will be made thinner than more expensive rotors. It’s also entirely possible that the recycled steel isn’t as refined in cheaper rotors.
Also look into carbon steel rotors. I generally recommend upgrading to these rotors if you warp your rotors a lot.
generally cheaper rotors will be made thinner than more expensive rotors. It’s also entirely possible that the recycled steel isn’t as refined in cheaper rotors.
Also look into carbon steel rotors. I generally recommend upgrading to these rotors if you warp your rotors a lot.
slide the pinion shaft down and it should fit right back on the back of the spider gear. You should be able to fit the spider gear into the side and rotate it back into place where you can slide the pinion shaft through the upper and lower gears.
slide the pinion shaft down and it should fit right back on the back of the spider gear. You should be able to fit the spider gear into the side and rotate it back into place where you can slide the pinion shaft through the upper and lower gears.
seems like if you have that tool then it will allow you to R+R the shims without removing the camshafts and the head to use an old-fashioned valve-spring compressor. If you’re trying to find that tool then here’s a link:
http://www.etoolcart.com/valveadjustingtoolkit-nissanj-38972.aspxabout $400 bucks but still better than taking off the head if you’re dead set on doing this.
personally I didn’t know this tool existed. It might even be easy enough to make if you could get the measurements.
seems like if you have that tool then it will allow you to R+R the shims without removing the camshafts and the head to use an old-fashioned valve-spring compressor. If you’re trying to find that tool then here’s a link:
http://www.etoolcart.com/valveadjustingtoolkit-nissanj-38972.aspxabout $400 bucks but still better than taking off the head if you’re dead set on doing this.
personally I didn’t know this tool existed. It might even be easy enough to make if you could get the measurements.
the only thing I don’t like about it is that the individual arms aren’t adjustable. Since the springs aren’t necessarily even it needs some way to be able to adjust the individual arms to fit the spring coil. As it stands it generally compresses the spring very unevenly.
the only thing I don’t like about it is that the individual arms aren’t adjustable. Since the springs aren’t necessarily even it needs some way to be able to adjust the individual arms to fit the spring coil. As it stands it generally compresses the spring very unevenly.