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Thanks for the advice. The trailing arm is stronger than I anticipated. I got the struts mounted but I could only get one bolt in each trailing arm. I can get the other bolt started but after 20 or so turns, the bolts don’t go up any farther. I have attached a photo of both bolts. The threads on one bolt look stripped.
I don’t have an impact wrench and I am using hand tools.That’s a good point you make. I don’t know how to compress the strut. I tried lowering the trailing arm, but I fear I may break the rear axle.
Folks
Just wanted to close the loop on this issue. I finally got the drain bolt loose. I got an 18″ breaker bar but the socket kept falling off. I bought the Irwin bolt extractor kit and that gripped enough to get the bolt loose with the breaker bar.[quote=”hotshot” post=184551]Falls off? Hold the wrench end down on the plug nut with your other hand. Assuming you’re turning CCW direction, Lol.
Make sure the combination wrench is the correct size & a 6 point like Karl stated.
You may want to get another (new) plug before you attack it again.[/quote]
I have ordered a go-2 socket and 3/8″ 3-foot breaker bar. It should be here in a couple days and then I will try again. Yes, I am turning counter-clockwise. Trust me! This isn’t the first time I am changing the oil. Just the last time, I was too busy and I gave it to a garage near work to do the oil change so I could get on the road trip on the weekend. I am using a 6-point socket as well.
[quote=”hotshot” post=184531]Use the box end wrench again, but this time grab a hammer and hit the end like it owes you money.
The seal can set up tight on drain plugs if they are installed dry (no oil on the
seal).[/quote]I tried that already but the wrench just falls off. I even tried hammering the socket wrench. Anybody know what’s the yellow stuff on the drain bolt? Is that just a marker or loctite? There is a possibility that the shop that did this work used pneumatic wrench or cross-threaded it.
Getting a drain bolt off shouldn’t be this hard, right?