Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=88807]When I encounter vibrations like this I don’t look to the engine mounts first. I normally look to engine performance first. Make sure your engine is running well before committing to the engine mounts. New mounts will not solve an engine performance issue, in fact, it can make them worse. More info in this article.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/determining-the-causes-of-vehicle-vibrations%5B/quote%5D
Hey Eric, whenever you do engine mounts, is that one of “those parts” that you only go with OEM with or have you never had someone come in complaining of new AM mounts and vibrations? I would assume if the old mounts were as bad as they were (i.e. not doing much) engine performance would have been much more noticeable then?
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=88807]When I encounter vibrations like this I don’t look to the engine mounts first. I normally look to engine performance first. Make sure your engine is running well before committing to the engine mounts. New mounts will not solve an engine performance issue, in fact, it can make them worse. More info in this article.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/determining-the-causes-of-vehicle-vibrations%5B/quote%5D
Hey Eric, whenever you do engine mounts, is that one of “those parts” that you only go with OEM with or have you never had someone come in complaining of new AM mounts and vibrations? I would assume if the old mounts were as bad as they were (i.e. not doing much) engine performance would have been much more noticeable then?
[quote=”stiv625″ post=88820]I had an 02 Neon SXT with some idle and vibration issues. Mounts helped, the alignment procedure is very important BTW. I actually realigned the top strut mount a few times to get it just right (but the FSM procedure will get you close). Also the chassis side of my top strut mount was loose and some negotiating with a BFH helped kill the vibrations 😉
My eventual fix was a reman/reflashed PCM to eliminate the rough idle and vibrations but that doesn’t sound like your issue. What happens when you turn the A/C on or rev the engine slightly when stopped?[/quote]
See, that’s the thing, it’s only at idle / idle under load (obviously worse) like if I turn the steering wheel full left or right get’s to the point it sounds like the engine will actually stall and since I don’t feel like losing something that would cost $1k+ I don’t want to muck around with “well let it sit there for 2 minutes and see if it actually stalls” or anything like that. 😛
It does SEEM as though the mounts have “worn in” a bit as it’s MUCH less noticeable, although I’m not really trying to force it to do it either but it was only ever under 1k RPM. Example, I live in PA and it’s cold as hell here this winter first starting the engine seems to idle at 1k RPM but once the engine has “warmed up” for the day it idles around 600-700rpm. Of course if I let it sit for any length of hours and start it again it’ll be back at 1k RPM until it “warms up” again…
[quote=”stiv625″ post=88820]I had an 02 Neon SXT with some idle and vibration issues. Mounts helped, the alignment procedure is very important BTW. I actually realigned the top strut mount a few times to get it just right (but the FSM procedure will get you close). Also the chassis side of my top strut mount was loose and some negotiating with a BFH helped kill the vibrations 😉
My eventual fix was a reman/reflashed PCM to eliminate the rough idle and vibrations but that doesn’t sound like your issue. What happens when you turn the A/C on or rev the engine slightly when stopped?[/quote]
See, that’s the thing, it’s only at idle / idle under load (obviously worse) like if I turn the steering wheel full left or right get’s to the point it sounds like the engine will actually stall and since I don’t feel like losing something that would cost $1k+ I don’t want to muck around with “well let it sit there for 2 minutes and see if it actually stalls” or anything like that. 😛
It does SEEM as though the mounts have “worn in” a bit as it’s MUCH less noticeable, although I’m not really trying to force it to do it either but it was only ever under 1k RPM. Example, I live in PA and it’s cold as hell here this winter first starting the engine seems to idle at 1k RPM but once the engine has “warmed up” for the day it idles around 600-700rpm. Of course if I let it sit for any length of hours and start it again it’ll be back at 1k RPM until it “warms up” again…
Thanks for the reply, I didn’t adjust (nor measure) the distances but if I replaced the top on Saturday and it got rid of the crazy thumps on bumps and the insane vibration just started after I replaced the lower (which the actual rubber was literally destroyed) and driver-side mount do you think a simple measurement fix would cause that?
The cars in the shop now for a bearing on the driver-side (which was bad before I replaced the mounts) and he said all the motor mounts looked good, although there’s no way he ripped the air box off, battery, battery tray, battery tray mount and the actual engine mount (as that’s the ONLY way you can even see the mount itself) in the time-frame it took him to tell me they were all good.
Needless to say I did just call a Dodge dealer and he pretty much flat out said “let me guess you bought AM mounts?” so it’s definitely an issue with a great deal of cars?
He was pretty bad at explaining what the mounts looked like but he was actually quoting me $5 cheaper than the AM mount which I thought was rather odd considering the lower OEM mount was 3x the price of the AM one. I’m kinda like “wait and see if the hard rubber breaks in a little and hope the vibration doesn’t drive any nuts and bolts loose, let alone the steering wheel” or “screw it all and just have them put OEM mounts on and go from there”. I just know that as much as the OEM mounts would probably fix the crazy vibrations it’s like if they don’t I just ate another $200 or so on the parts let alone labor and it’s not like I can say “take them all off, put the old ones back on I’m not paying for something that didn’t fix the problem”.
Thanks for the reply, I didn’t adjust (nor measure) the distances but if I replaced the top on Saturday and it got rid of the crazy thumps on bumps and the insane vibration just started after I replaced the lower (which the actual rubber was literally destroyed) and driver-side mount do you think a simple measurement fix would cause that?
The cars in the shop now for a bearing on the driver-side (which was bad before I replaced the mounts) and he said all the motor mounts looked good, although there’s no way he ripped the air box off, battery, battery tray, battery tray mount and the actual engine mount (as that’s the ONLY way you can even see the mount itself) in the time-frame it took him to tell me they were all good.
Needless to say I did just call a Dodge dealer and he pretty much flat out said “let me guess you bought AM mounts?” so it’s definitely an issue with a great deal of cars?
He was pretty bad at explaining what the mounts looked like but he was actually quoting me $5 cheaper than the AM mount which I thought was rather odd considering the lower OEM mount was 3x the price of the AM one. I’m kinda like “wait and see if the hard rubber breaks in a little and hope the vibration doesn’t drive any nuts and bolts loose, let alone the steering wheel” or “screw it all and just have them put OEM mounts on and go from there”. I just know that as much as the OEM mounts would probably fix the crazy vibrations it’s like if they don’t I just ate another $200 or so on the parts let alone labor and it’s not like I can say “take them all off, put the old ones back on I’m not paying for something that didn’t fix the problem”.
Quick edit: While I can’t find anything near the size of this for my car, it almost sounds what this sounds like but a tad deeper, almost as if there’s “weight” being added onto it which would make sense when the car is on the ground. I’m pretty sure the only thing close to that on a 05 neon is the bushing/link? I’ll have to take a look when the wife gets home.
Either way, it sounds like this, deeper but essentially the same… almost like something is ready to fly through the hood.
[video width=550 height=309 type=youtube]dJAU2XKhG4A[/video]
Quick edit: While I can’t find anything near the size of this for my car, it almost sounds what this sounds like but a tad deeper, almost as if there’s “weight” being added onto it which would make sense when the car is on the ground. I’m pretty sure the only thing close to that on a 05 neon is the bushing/link? I’ll have to take a look when the wife gets home.
Either way, it sounds like this, deeper but essentially the same… almost like something is ready to fly through the hood.
[video width=550 height=309 type=youtube]dJAU2XKhG4A[/video]
You’re referring to the rubber inside the mount? Yea, I’m a complete idiot when it comes to terms. 😛
From the video I watched, it appears as though there is 2 easily accessible mounts, and then 1 “main”/middle mount that you can’t really see/access without taking the others off or are you referring to something else completely?
You’re referring to the rubber inside the mount? Yea, I’m a complete idiot when it comes to terms. 😛
From the video I watched, it appears as though there is 2 easily accessible mounts, and then 1 “main”/middle mount that you can’t really see/access without taking the others off or are you referring to something else completely?
Hey thanks for the responses guy, I’ll take a look at them, but does any of the mounts only affect dampening when that power shifts from R-D (I cycled through P-R, P-R-N yesterday and didn’t hear any sort of noise at all) or ONLY when applying brake and the force shifts from <<< to <<<<>stop?
As I said, I’ll take a look at them and I suppose beginning with the one closest to the steering linkage considering a SOMETIMES feel it in the steering wheel.
Quick update, taking a look on YT, it appears there’s only 3 engine mounts and they are all on the passenger side?