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I didn’t do the center mount since it’s a pita to do and I didn’t feel like taking the whole belt assembly off.
So you did the upper, lower, middle? Did you do the tranny-side (driver-side) mount as well?
AutoZone definitely only sells Anchor but yea apparently a ton of people (even with any make of car) seem to have some sort of issues with vibrations after replacing mounts, sometimes even with OEM mounts.
Did you do the alignment procedure as well? I didn’t and I am out about .5-1″, from the quick looking I did in the dark, but I don’t think it would cause the vibrations I’m having in the front-end and through the steering wheel.
If you didn’t do the alignment procedure after replacing them, then damn you are one lucky SOB all around. Outside of making sure everything is tightened (my biggest concern is the vibration, which is only at IDLE/sub-700 rpms is that bolts will vibrate loose, especially something with the steering column) again and doing the alignment I’ll be pissed off if it doesn’t go away completely. 🙁
The problem tends to really be how the AM mounts are hard rubber, and I’m sure being cold as hell this winter, hasn’t really given them any time to warm up/break-in since I replaced them 3 weeks ago. :-/
EDIT: You must not have done the tranny side mount since that is the most expensive $108 compared to the $35 on the upper/lower and $60 on the middle mount.
So you did the upper, lower, middle? Did you do the tranny-side (driver-side) mount as well?
AutoZone definitely only sells Anchor but yea apparently a ton of people (even with any make of car) seem to have some sort of issues with vibrations after replacing mounts, sometimes even with OEM mounts.
Did you do the alignment procedure as well? I didn’t and I am out about .5-1″, from the quick looking I did in the dark, but I don’t think it would cause the vibrations I’m having in the front-end and through the steering wheel.
If you didn’t do the alignment procedure after replacing them, then damn you are one lucky SOB all around. Outside of making sure everything is tightened (my biggest concern is the vibration, which is only at IDLE/sub-700 rpms is that bolts will vibrate loose, especially something with the steering column) again and doing the alignment I’ll be pissed off if it doesn’t go away completely. 🙁
The problem tends to really be how the AM mounts are hard rubber, and I’m sure being cold as hell this winter, hasn’t really given them any time to warm up/break-in since I replaced them 3 weeks ago. :-/
EDIT: You must not have done the tranny side mount since that is the most expensive $108 compared to the $35 on the upper/lower and $60 on the middle mount.
OOC, did you use AM (AutoZone/Advanced Auto) mounts or OEM? Only asking because that’s one of the reasons I’m here lol. After replacing them with the Anchor mounts, which seem to be the only real available brand outside of OEM, I (including a TON of people) all have vibrations that weren’t that before mount replacement regardless of how bad the mount actually was and trust me mine was basically barely hanging on to anything on the motor bolt.
OOC, did you use AM (AutoZone/Advanced Auto) mounts or OEM? Only asking because that’s one of the reasons I’m here lol. After replacing them with the Anchor mounts, which seem to be the only real available brand outside of OEM, I (including a TON of people) all have vibrations that weren’t that before mount replacement regardless of how bad the mount actually was and trust me mine was basically barely hanging on to anything on the motor bolt.
Funny, I got the same exact color.
You know, I know parts just “go” but I’m wondering if you have like no potholes/crappy roads around you guys?
Like I said, I’ve replaced normal w/t parts (including a tie rod end and rear control arm bushing) and just recently had at least 2 (upper and lower, didn’t check middle) motor mounts which were REAL bad replaced. Makes me wonder how the heck you got 130k+ miles and didn’t have mounts go bad. 🙁
Funny, I got the same exact color.
You know, I know parts just “go” but I’m wondering if you have like no potholes/crappy roads around you guys?
Like I said, I’ve replaced normal w/t parts (including a tie rod end and rear control arm bushing) and just recently had at least 2 (upper and lower, didn’t check middle) motor mounts which were REAL bad replaced. Makes me wonder how the heck you got 130k+ miles and didn’t have mounts go bad. 🙁
Brillon, you just gave me some confidence in my engine lasting that long! I have an 05 Neon SXT (original owner, purchased Jan 2006) with 75k miles on it and I was thinking something “major” was going to creep up and bite me in the ass in terms of a repair.
What type of driving is that 200k+ mileage? Outside of W/T parts (brakes, rotors, wheels, tie rod ends) what all have you had to replace?
Brillon, you just gave me some confidence in my engine lasting that long! I have an 05 Neon SXT (original owner, purchased Jan 2006) with 75k miles on it and I was thinking something “major” was going to creep up and bite me in the ass in terms of a repair.
What type of driving is that 200k+ mileage? Outside of W/T parts (brakes, rotors, wheels, tie rod ends) what all have you had to replace?
Just to keep this updated, I took it back to the shop Saturday and the front-desk (yea, we don’t have a TON of places around here where you deal straight with the mechanics) guy took it for a drive with me first saying the same thing “Yea, I can’t imagine it being the passenger bearing if when I turn the wheel left the noise is gone but straight and right the noise is there”. Needless to say they supposedly replaced the passenger bearing and all was fixed with the growling. Charged me $260 for 2 bearings essentially since they ate the cost of the driver-side.
Needless to say, while the vibration from the mount replacement is still there, MUCH less than it was, I’m definitely done with fixing anything until spring breaks, HOPEFULLY. 😛
Just to keep this updated, I took it back to the shop Saturday and the front-desk (yea, we don’t have a TON of places around here where you deal straight with the mechanics) guy took it for a drive with me first saying the same thing “Yea, I can’t imagine it being the passenger bearing if when I turn the wheel left the noise is gone but straight and right the noise is there”. Needless to say they supposedly replaced the passenger bearing and all was fixed with the growling. Charged me $260 for 2 bearings essentially since they ate the cost of the driver-side.
Needless to say, while the vibration from the mount replacement is still there, MUCH less than it was, I’m definitely done with fixing anything until spring breaks, HOPEFULLY. 😛
As an overall update, I took it to a shop today and SUPPOSEDLY (there’s no way in the time it took him to tell me they checked all the mounts) they checked out all the mounts and they all looked good. I mean I know they are “good” in terms of being new, so unsure what he really meant by that.
Can you see my hesitation on mechanics, at least around here? I took it to a mechanic a couple months ago because I thought the bearing or axle was bad (whirring/growling noise almost exactly like the video Eric has on a bad bearing) and he says “It doesn’t sound like either of those, drive it till it breaks”. I was just like…..
Then I took it to a second mechanic who literally said the exact same thing. I mean seriously, do they not want my money or something?
The only reason I bring that up is because I took it to that shop today, made no mention of a bearing or anything and they said “your driver side bearing is bad, $280 to replace it” so I knew it seemed like it was a bearing. Needless to say they call me back two hours later and say “we replaced the bearing, took it for a road test and the noise is still there so we’ll have to do the passenger side next”, don’t get me wrong they said they’d eat the cost of the driver-side bearing but if I’m getting the exact same noise Eric was getting in his bad bearing video when going straight and wheel turn right, that could ONLY be something to deal with the left-side of the vehicle, no?
Either way, as I replied to someone, it SEEMS as though the mounts may have “settle/broken-in” since last night as the vibration, at least as bad as it was last night, hasn’t been heard yet in my driving today. I just hope it stays that way and they keep breaking-in.
As an overall update, I took it to a shop today and SUPPOSEDLY (there’s no way in the time it took him to tell me they checked all the mounts) they checked out all the mounts and they all looked good. I mean I know they are “good” in terms of being new, so unsure what he really meant by that.
Can you see my hesitation on mechanics, at least around here? I took it to a mechanic a couple months ago because I thought the bearing or axle was bad (whirring/growling noise almost exactly like the video Eric has on a bad bearing) and he says “It doesn’t sound like either of those, drive it till it breaks”. I was just like…..
Then I took it to a second mechanic who literally said the exact same thing. I mean seriously, do they not want my money or something?
The only reason I bring that up is because I took it to that shop today, made no mention of a bearing or anything and they said “your driver side bearing is bad, $280 to replace it” so I knew it seemed like it was a bearing. Needless to say they call me back two hours later and say “we replaced the bearing, took it for a road test and the noise is still there so we’ll have to do the passenger side next”, don’t get me wrong they said they’d eat the cost of the driver-side bearing but if I’m getting the exact same noise Eric was getting in his bad bearing video when going straight and wheel turn right, that could ONLY be something to deal with the left-side of the vehicle, no?
Either way, as I replied to someone, it SEEMS as though the mounts may have “settle/broken-in” since last night as the vibration, at least as bad as it was last night, hasn’t been heard yet in my driving today. I just hope it stays that way and they keep breaking-in.
[quote=”wysetech” post=88821]The alignment of the mounts is very important for controlling vibrations but the aftermarket mounts could be contributing to the problem..[/quote]
Yea, it’s really a toss-up without a ton of research, but unless literally no-one bothers to do the alignment of the mounts it seems a TON of people with a bunch of different cars (but in my case I found a tone of Neon owners with the same problem) tend to have crazy vibrations after replacing OEM mounts with AM mounts.
The one thing I will say, I don’t know if the actual rubber inside is supposed to be hollow but on the OEM mounts they definitely are as I can see through them on the broken ones. There’s some speculation on if they are filled with something but I called the dealer today even and they said the OEM mounts aren’t filled with anything so unsure on that front.
On the AM mounts, it does seem like the rubber is solid as hell, and with the way the OEM ones looked, definitely hollow/filled with something, that could definitely be a contributing factor but the real question is ARE they actually filled with something.
[quote=”wysetech” post=88821]The alignment of the mounts is very important for controlling vibrations but the aftermarket mounts could be contributing to the problem..[/quote]
Yea, it’s really a toss-up without a ton of research, but unless literally no-one bothers to do the alignment of the mounts it seems a TON of people with a bunch of different cars (but in my case I found a tone of Neon owners with the same problem) tend to have crazy vibrations after replacing OEM mounts with AM mounts.
The one thing I will say, I don’t know if the actual rubber inside is supposed to be hollow but on the OEM mounts they definitely are as I can see through them on the broken ones. There’s some speculation on if they are filled with something but I called the dealer today even and they said the OEM mounts aren’t filled with anything so unsure on that front.
On the AM mounts, it does seem like the rubber is solid as hell, and with the way the OEM ones looked, definitely hollow/filled with something, that could definitely be a contributing factor but the real question is ARE they actually filled with something.