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Rear tire wear could be from incorrect toe if its featheting the outer tread blocks.
Moog and others make adjustable rear camber link for the Element.
PepBoys* sells a Northstar brand one for about $68. (-2 to +3 degrees. SKU 9943825) They need not be installed in pairs if only one side is out of tolerance.
*I’m a little down on PepBoys alignment service. They claimed to have adjusted the front camber without changing parts, and I know the pinch bolt are original OEM.After converting the fsctory specs to decimal degrees, their “specified ranges” for camber don’t match.
KIf Moog lists a replacement ball joint and what is in the box doesn’t fit, what is wrong? Moog either reverse engineers parts by teardown or builds from manufacturers specs.
1. Was the wrong part in the box?
2. Did Nissan make an undocumented change?
3. Did the control arm supplier sneak something past Nissan?
4. Is the control arm on the car the one Nissan shipped it with?Seems strange that neither the ball joints nor the control arm have any identification marks that could be used to determine why there was a mismatch. I’m inclined to say the wrong oart was in the Moog box. As an amateur, my first step would be to get the same part Moog from another batch and compare parts, or contact Moog and get their engineering spec for the diameter of the ball joint.
Working as an unpaid pro, with a deadline, i suppose the constraints would be different.
But Nissan’s stance, in not selling what should be a commonly available repair part separately, is suspicious.
Although I admire Eric persistence in sticking with this pro bono project regardless of the personal cost, it’s a pity that he seems to have overlooked before starting it,that no good deed ever goes unpunished.
This series should serve as a public service announcement, reinforcing the message that buying a Chrysler product and expecting it to have a long , reliable, useful life isn’t realistic.
Chrysler has shown over the years that it can take an excellent idea and over time and the involvement of committees,, bastardize that concept enough to make it into a bad product that needs dealer complaints and redesign to make work. Now that it is a part of Fix It Again Tony, it has found an owner that is truly compatible with its product development philosophy, and marketing.
The next Chrysler slogan should be “Deported from Detroit”.
Back on topic, it’s a misconception that if a system holds a ‘vaccuum’ it will hold pressure. Stress forces at seals and points of failure are opposite under the two extremes. A simple example is placing a piece of flat rubber across the end of as vacuum cleaner hose.
The difference in stresses is why life critical systems like spacecraft arent tested by submersion in water. Spacecraft body structures try to expand when pressurized in a vacuum, and are desire to withstand tension.. Submarines aren’t tested by pumping in air to crush depth pressure, which would stretch them. They are designed to withstand compression.
A bean counter would have said to use an existing part as a component in a limited run assembly unless something less expensive was available. Schroeder valves are inexpensive and reliable. Some jackass wannabee engineer decided to use something oddball.
I haven’t checked out its ingredients yet but it acts very much like diatomaceous earth, which you can get at most big box lumber stores. I bought some for insect control, accidentally spilled it on my garage floor and it sucked stains right out of the concrete. Diatomaceous earth is sodium silicate, the shells of microscopic organisms.
If Jaxx Zorb is made from a silicate, you should take care to avoid inhaling the dust.
BtwI believe that the brand Kitty Litter was originally marketed as Oil Dry by the American Oil Dry Company, which owns the trademark.
Found the MDSS. It is
a silicate
I appreciate your reply and I’m going to do the test while I’m away from home.
If the noise stops, what do I need to adjust or replace?
Thanks for the reply.
Is this a diagnostic test or a break-in procedure for the parking brake?
Hearing is tough with the brake engaged at all. If I lift the lever to the first click with the car moving, I get an annoying beeping, The brake doesn’t start to drag until the second click.
I didn’t see any scrape marks inside the hat (drum) or on the edges of the shoes when I did the teardown.
I’ll try it, but if the dragging only stops with the brake on, I’d rather hear occasional scraping than constant beeping.
I would be wary of any advice from anybody to modify an item youvwwn,,expecially if it ciuld relatr to your personal safety.
It’s one thing to follow your yiur own ides and opinions. Somrthing else to give it to s0someone and walk away bearing no resposibility for the consequnces:.
You can probably do without those screws so long as you aren’t doing brake wotk. There is a slight chance that with the cliper off, the disc could move away from the hub face and become slightly askew. If the wheels were to be remounnted with the disc out if position, it could become wedged in that position as the lugnuts were tighteded, and possibly warp before you figured out what was wrong.
It’s a slight chance, but possible. The soultion is to learn a method of getting thise screws out, starting with usinf JIS #3 screwdrivers and bits, not phillips, with those screws.
The only one I wouldnt use is the ballpeen hammer technique, which can and has caused heads to shear off. A there’sca backstreet mechanic (ireland) youtube video using my fallback technique.