[Bob]

I did clean the Throtle body and MAP sensors with a spray can product made for the job. I also did the checks for engine vacuum leaks as suggested by Eric.
This engine runs like a Swiss watch hot or cold, I couldnt ask for a better running engine.
The car just hit 100,000 last week and I’m still using synthetic oil. Getting 22 – 23 MPG around town with no highway driving

Today I replaced the air intake temperature sensor. With the new sensor installed the cold start idel speed dropped from 1400 to 1250 RPM, more in line with the way it used to be. I havent driven the car yet but expect it to be just fine.

Of course were in the summer months now and real cold weather starts and engine RPM data will have to wait a few months.

I will also try re-calibrating the IAC motor using the times reccomended by Buicklunch, the last time I did the procedure I did not wait that long.

I also use an OBDII interface that allows real time monitoring on a laptop of many engine functions including engine water temperature in real time.

Lets see what happens …..

[Bob]

I did clean the Throtle body and MAP sensors with a spray can product made for the job. I also did the checks for engine vacuum leaks as suggested by Eric.
This engine runs like a Swiss watch hot or cold, I couldnt ask for a better running engine.
The car just hit 100,000 last week and I’m still using synthetic oil. Getting 22 – 23 MPG around town with no highway driving

Today I replaced the air intake temperature sensor. With the new sensor installed the cold start idel speed dropped from 1400 to 1250 RPM, more in line with the way it used to be. I havent driven the car yet but expect it to be just fine.

Of course were in the summer months now and real cold weather starts and engine RPM data will have to wait a few months.

I will also try re-calibrating the IAC motor using the times reccomended by Buicklunch, the last time I did the procedure I did not wait that long.

I also use an OBDII interface that allows real time monitoring on a laptop of many engine functions including engine water temperature in real time.

Lets see what happens …..

[Bob]

If you carefully read one of the links it states that it is a ceramic product of some type.

It goes on to say the contents, ceramic material does not mix with the motor oil, it only uses the motor oil to deliver the product to all the metal parts,

I’d guess what ever ceramic material that doesn’t stick to metal parts will come out at the next oil change.

At that price I couldn’t afford to test it. If it did what it says it does I’d buy it tonight.

I was hoping someone all ready purchased some and tested it with good results.

Nothing could be as good as it states, I wish it was.

Thanks …………

[Bob]

If you carefully read one of the links it states that it is a ceramic product of some type.

It goes on to say the contents, ceramic material does not mix with the motor oil, it only uses the motor oil to deliver the product to all the metal parts,

I’d guess what ever ceramic material that doesn’t stick to metal parts will come out at the next oil change.

At that price I couldn’t afford to test it. If it did what it says it does I’d buy it tonight.

I was hoping someone all ready purchased some and tested it with good results.

Nothing could be as good as it states, I wish it was.

Thanks …………

[Bob]

I used to have a can of Champion Spark Plug Company Anti-Seize Compound that I used for at least ten years. It was made for spark plugs installed in aluminum aircraft cylinder heads.

Not sure where it can be purchased, the can I had was given to me by an Airframe and power plant mechanic.

In any case you have to be careful not to use to much so it won’t run down the plug threads and onto the plug. It probably contains a conductive element and might possibly cause fouling and or misfires

I believe best practice is never to remove spark plugs from aluminum heads while hot.

Bob

[Bob]

I used to have a can of Champion Spark Plug Company Anti-Seize Compound that I used for at least ten years. It was made for spark plugs installed in aluminum aircraft cylinder heads.

Not sure where it can be purchased, the can I had was given to me by an Airframe and power plant mechanic.

In any case you have to be careful not to use to much so it won’t run down the plug threads and onto the plug. It probably contains a conductive element and might possibly cause fouling and or misfires

I believe best practice is never to remove spark plugs from aluminum heads while hot.

Bob

[Bob]

PO442 error code turned out to be a small section of rusted vapor returm line under the car. Cut out bad section replaced with rubber fuel line and stainless hose clamps.

[Bob]

PO442 error code turned out to be a small section of rusted vapor returm line under the car. Cut out bad section replaced with rubber fuel line and stainless hose clamps.

[Bob]

Thanks for the reply’s guys, it means a lot to have someone to reach out to.

I did purchase a new Delco Idle Air Control valve but still the engine races when started.
The racing engine behavior when cold only recently started, it never ran this way until a short while ago. Yes it would run at 1200 RPM at first but quickly fell to idle speed 800 RPM, maybe 30 – 60 seconds, now its taking 7 – 10 minutes or when engine temp reaches 185/f

As I said before the engine runs perfectly once it reaches operating temperature.

New curve, last week the system threw a code PO442. (Small leak during vacuum Emission test) Engine still runs perfectly. No stumble, no hesitation, smooth idle, good gas mileage.

Local Massachusetts Inspection garage guy suggested purchasing a new gas cap from a Genuine GM Dealership, so I did that. Said he has lots of issues with aftermarket gas caps.

On several occasions I tried probing vacuum lines, manifolds, etc with propane, when the propane didn’t show any results I tried probing with carburetor cleaner. Both the propane and carb cleaner didn’t show any vacuum leaks.

Parts recap:

(Thermostat), (Delco IAC Valve), (Delco Water Temp Sending Unit), (Delco Fuel Pump), (Delco Gas Cap)

I also have a 2003 Buick LeSabre with the same engine and does not race like the 2000 LeSabre.

Thanks Eric

[Bob]

Thanks for the reply’s guys, it means a lot to have someone to reach out to.

I did purchase a new Delco Idle Air Control valve but still the engine races when started.
The racing engine behavior when cold only recently started, it never ran this way until a short while ago. Yes it would run at 1200 RPM at first but quickly fell to idle speed 800 RPM, maybe 30 – 60 seconds, now its taking 7 – 10 minutes or when engine temp reaches 185/f

As I said before the engine runs perfectly once it reaches operating temperature.

New curve, last week the system threw a code PO442. (Small leak during vacuum Emission test) Engine still runs perfectly. No stumble, no hesitation, smooth idle, good gas mileage.

Local Massachusetts Inspection garage guy suggested purchasing a new gas cap from a Genuine GM Dealership, so I did that. Said he has lots of issues with aftermarket gas caps.

On several occasions I tried probing vacuum lines, manifolds, etc with propane, when the propane didn’t show any results I tried probing with carburetor cleaner. Both the propane and carb cleaner didn’t show any vacuum leaks.

Parts recap:

(Thermostat), (Delco IAC Valve), (Delco Water Temp Sending Unit), (Delco Fuel Pump), (Delco Gas Cap)

I also have a 2003 Buick LeSabre with the same engine and does not race like the 2000 LeSabre.

Thanks Eric

[Bob]

Thanks for the reply college man

I believe there are two water temperature sending units. I replaced the one just below the thermostat housing, which is the one that communicates with the computer?

My online manual doesnt show where the other gauge sending unit is located for the instrument pannel temperature gauge and the I.P. guage appears to be working normal.

One couldnt ask for a better running car once the operating system temperature is reached (190/f). I’m afraid the brakes will wear out if this keps up.

Thanks in advance for you rhelp

[Bob]

Thanks for the reply college man

I believe there are two water temperature sending units. I replaced the one just below the thermostat housing, which is the one that communicates with the computer?

My online manual doesnt show where the other gauge sending unit is located for the instrument pannel temperature gauge and the I.P. guage appears to be working normal.

One couldnt ask for a better running car once the operating system temperature is reached (190/f). I’m afraid the brakes will wear out if this keps up.

Thanks in advance for you rhelp

[Bob]

Thanks for the suggestion to reset the IAC. I did as suggested by turning the key off then on, I also replaced the computer water temperature sensor with a new Delco sensor ($24.00).

Fast idle (1300 RPM) continues until engine temperature reaches around 185 or higher then the idle returns to normal about 850 RPM

Maybe intake air temperature sensor?

[Bob]

Thanks for the suggestion to reset the IAC. I did as suggested by turning the key off then on, I also replaced the computer water temperature sensor with a new Delco sensor ($24.00).

Fast idle (1300 RPM) continues until engine temperature reaches around 185 or higher then the idle returns to normal about 850 RPM

Maybe intake air temperature sensor?

[Author]

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