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Mit,
I think you might be on to something with the leaky bung. When I was under the car yesterday, I noticed what appears to be two cracks on either side of the lower O2 sensor that appear to follow the bung weld. I probably would not have noticed them had i not had a flashlight. The car has over 240K miles on it, might as well replace the rest of the exhaust on it. Its original past the lower cat and is probably due anyway.
Thanks for the advice on testing for exhaust leaks.
Mit,
I think you might be on to something with the leaky bung. When I was under the car yesterday, I noticed what appears to be two cracks on either side of the lower O2 sensor that appear to follow the bung weld. I probably would not have noticed them had i not had a flashlight. The car has over 240K miles on it, might as well replace the rest of the exhaust on it. Its original past the lower cat and is probably due anyway.
Thanks for the advice on testing for exhaust leaks.
I did not get a Denso brand, Advance Auto carries Bosch and that is what I used. Not to say you are not on to something with the Denso brand, but the Bosch should match OEM specs, so I don’t see that being the problem, but I have no way to test without finding the lower O2 sensor’s connector and testing that with my multimeter. (Is this something that can be tested while it is disconnected or do I have to leave it connected to see if the readings are within range?) The only elephant in the room, so to speak, I have thought of, but have kind of dismissed is that it is possible that the lower O2 sensor was bad from the get-go, but I have been working under the assumption it is working correctly.
Also, while I am down below changing the oil and shooting the lower cat, I plan to see if the sensor can be further tightened to eliminate potential air leak around the threads. How do you test for an exhaust leaks? I can’t see using soapy water because that would boil away and I would be afraid spraying an oil, like WD40, on the joints could catch fire.
Also, in the interest of full disclosure, I found a website that indicates that there could be an issue with the throttle position sensor (TPS) or the evap system causing a P0420 code by itself, even though there *should* be other codes pointing toward the Evap system. I made the mod to the TPS per the website (i.e. removing the metal bushings to allow the TPS to be adjusted by rotating the TPS as it is mounted to the throttle body) and that has actually improved things in that I can get about 1-1/2 to 2 hours of driving, total, in before the CEL pops back on, prior to that I could get maybe an hour at most (if I don’t use my car for anything but commuting back and forth from the train station to my house, that translates to about a week to almost a week and a half before the CEL comes on). I am still mulling over if I should open up the holes in the TPS more to see if I can adjust it more, or if I should just move on to checking the Evap system. Assuming, of course, I can definitively rule that the lower cat is working, too. I kind of leaning toward just replacing the rubber hoses to the Evap system and if that doesn’t cut it going back to the lower O2 sensor and replacing it, again (and Yes, I will order a Denso to be sure, now that I know that the Bosch may not be fully OEM compliant or something).
Oh, and I forgot to add that my last oil change, I had them change the spark plugs and wires.
I did not get a Denso brand, Advance Auto carries Bosch and that is what I used. Not to say you are not on to something with the Denso brand, but the Bosch should match OEM specs, so I don’t see that being the problem, but I have no way to test without finding the lower O2 sensor’s connector and testing that with my multimeter. (Is this something that can be tested while it is disconnected or do I have to leave it connected to see if the readings are within range?) The only elephant in the room, so to speak, I have thought of, but have kind of dismissed is that it is possible that the lower O2 sensor was bad from the get-go, but I have been working under the assumption it is working correctly.
Also, while I am down below changing the oil and shooting the lower cat, I plan to see if the sensor can be further tightened to eliminate potential air leak around the threads. How do you test for an exhaust leaks? I can’t see using soapy water because that would boil away and I would be afraid spraying an oil, like WD40, on the joints could catch fire.
Also, in the interest of full disclosure, I found a website that indicates that there could be an issue with the throttle position sensor (TPS) or the evap system causing a P0420 code by itself, even though there *should* be other codes pointing toward the Evap system. I made the mod to the TPS per the website (i.e. removing the metal bushings to allow the TPS to be adjusted by rotating the TPS as it is mounted to the throttle body) and that has actually improved things in that I can get about 1-1/2 to 2 hours of driving, total, in before the CEL pops back on, prior to that I could get maybe an hour at most (if I don’t use my car for anything but commuting back and forth from the train station to my house, that translates to about a week to almost a week and a half before the CEL comes on). I am still mulling over if I should open up the holes in the TPS more to see if I can adjust it more, or if I should just move on to checking the Evap system. Assuming, of course, I can definitively rule that the lower cat is working, too. I kind of leaning toward just replacing the rubber hoses to the Evap system and if that doesn’t cut it going back to the lower O2 sensor and replacing it, again (and Yes, I will order a Denso to be sure, now that I know that the Bosch may not be fully OEM compliant or something).
Oh, and I forgot to add that my last oil change, I had them change the spark plugs and wires.
[quote=”mitmaks” post=91291]So today I’ve removed front o2 sensor and it turns out to be different part # that Ive ordered.
It is 89467-33020 so which would be this Denso part # 234-9010
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Denso-Oxygen-Sensor/2001-Toyota-Camry/_/N-jfiepZ9gslx?itemIdentifier=707687_0_1784_1382%2C97999
So this makes this car California compliant? Is there way I can type in VIN # somewhere and check if it is CA emissions car? I called dealer earlier and they said it was 50 state emissions compliant.
Sticker underneath hood is for V6 engine so that tells me it was previously wrecked and I can’t go off that sticker.[/quote]Yeah, I only found out my 2001 was California emission compliant when I broke down to replace the “front O2” sensor (i.e. the A/F sensor).
Does anyone know if the lower O2 sensor for a cali emission vehicle is different from the non-cali O2 sensor? At the time I changed it, I had no idea my car was Cali, and the O2 sensor connector matched the old O2 sensor connector, unlike the A/F (i.e. upper) sensor connector. But despite changing the cat (via a local repair shop) and, now, both the A/F and O2 sensor, my car is still throwing the 0420 code.
More info: I checked the upper cat with my IR thermometer and it is working, temp in is in the 600 + degree F range and the temperature on the outlet sends my thermometer into a tizzy as it goes above 1300 degrees F and then the thermometer starts giving false readings, but then my thermometer is only good to 1000 degrees F. I have not checked the lower cat with the thermometer, I plan to do that tomorrow if I can get to changing my oil.
If the Cali lower O2 sensor is different, then that may be why my current problems persist.
Thanks,
Paul[quote=”mitmaks” post=91291]So today I’ve removed front o2 sensor and it turns out to be different part # that Ive ordered.
It is 89467-33020 so which would be this Denso part # 234-9010
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Denso-Oxygen-Sensor/2001-Toyota-Camry/_/N-jfiepZ9gslx?itemIdentifier=707687_0_1784_1382%2C97999
So this makes this car California compliant? Is there way I can type in VIN # somewhere and check if it is CA emissions car? I called dealer earlier and they said it was 50 state emissions compliant.
Sticker underneath hood is for V6 engine so that tells me it was previously wrecked and I can’t go off that sticker.[/quote]Yeah, I only found out my 2001 was California emission compliant when I broke down to replace the “front O2” sensor (i.e. the A/F sensor).
Does anyone know if the lower O2 sensor for a cali emission vehicle is different from the non-cali O2 sensor? At the time I changed it, I had no idea my car was Cali, and the O2 sensor connector matched the old O2 sensor connector, unlike the A/F (i.e. upper) sensor connector. But despite changing the cat (via a local repair shop) and, now, both the A/F and O2 sensor, my car is still throwing the 0420 code.
More info: I checked the upper cat with my IR thermometer and it is working, temp in is in the 600 + degree F range and the temperature on the outlet sends my thermometer into a tizzy as it goes above 1300 degrees F and then the thermometer starts giving false readings, but then my thermometer is only good to 1000 degrees F. I have not checked the lower cat with the thermometer, I plan to do that tomorrow if I can get to changing my oil.
If the Cali lower O2 sensor is different, then that may be why my current problems persist.
Thanks,
Paul