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The Honda dealer would use their Honda specific scan tool to see the SOC. To diagnose this concern they would do the procedure above. There is no real data to be collected, and only the trouble codes are looked at. The IMA system has it’s own self diag that constantly monitors the condition of the IMA system. When it decides the battery is no longer stable it will apply code P0A7F. The only other code that would come up to question the diag of the IMA system would be code P1586 which is, “Battery Current Sensor Signal Malfunction”. If P0A7F keeps coming back without P1586 also being present it means you need a new IMA battery to return to full assist.
“Which module is used between the HDS and the vehicle.”
Honda uses a scantool specially designed for Hondas.Which procedures are followed when using the HDS; What data is collected while using the HDS
When using the HDS to diagnose a bad IMA battery the main resource is DTCs and SOC. The IMA system has an on-board system that constantly monitors the condition of the IMA system.
What data is collected while using the HDSAnd what data, if any was collected, is returned to the DIYs.
Due to the dangerous repair procedures I am not sure what information would be given to the customer other than the DTCs, and a recommendation. It would be a case by case item, and very dependent on the service writer.Sorry for my harsh views towards self service of the IMA system. While in school they actually show a video of the exact path the electricity will take to your heart, and kill you… They put the fear of god in you! My recommendation when it comes to hybrid systems is calling your local dealership, and seeing if they can cut you a deal on diag time.
Best Wishes
The Honda dealer would use their Honda specific scan tool to see the SOC. To diagnose this concern they would do the procedure above. There is no real data to be collected, and only the trouble codes are looked at. The IMA system has it’s own self diag that constantly monitors the condition of the IMA system. When it decides the battery is no longer stable it will apply code P0A7F. The only other code that would come up to question the diag of the IMA system would be code P1586 which is, “Battery Current Sensor Signal Malfunction”. If P0A7F keeps coming back without P1586 also being present it means you need a new IMA battery to return to full assist.
“Which module is used between the HDS and the vehicle.”
Honda uses a scantool specially designed for Hondas.Which procedures are followed when using the HDS; What data is collected while using the HDS
When using the HDS to diagnose a bad IMA battery the main resource is DTCs and SOC. The IMA system has an on-board system that constantly monitors the condition of the IMA system.
What data is collected while using the HDSAnd what data, if any was collected, is returned to the DIYs.
Due to the dangerous repair procedures I am not sure what information would be given to the customer other than the DTCs, and a recommendation. It would be a case by case item, and very dependent on the service writer.Sorry for my harsh views towards self service of the IMA system. While in school they actually show a video of the exact path the electricity will take to your heart, and kill you… They put the fear of god in you! My recommendation when it comes to hybrid systems is calling your local dealership, and seeing if they can cut you a deal on diag time.
Best Wishes
I would check fuses 10 and 25 in the under-dash fuse box. Honestly don’t expect either of them to be blown. Fuse 10 will be hot when in on or run, fuse 25 will be hot at all times. Other than that the wires that run from your switch should be a blue and yellow wire that run back into a connector C752 your A pillar, and then you should be able to trace them into your under dash fuse box. You can check for issues in the wiring and C752. To be honest I’m leaning towards your fuse-box needing replaced, but if you have some time you could be positive by checking that wiring.
As always I hope this information proves helpful.
I would check fuses 10 and 25 in the under-dash fuse box. Honestly don’t expect either of them to be blown. Fuse 10 will be hot when in on or run, fuse 25 will be hot at all times. Other than that the wires that run from your switch should be a blue and yellow wire that run back into a connector C752 your A pillar, and then you should be able to trace them into your under dash fuse box. You can check for issues in the wiring and C752. To be honest I’m leaning towards your fuse-box needing replaced, but if you have some time you could be positive by checking that wiring.
As always I hope this information proves helpful.
Just took a quick look at the electrical schematic for you. From the looks of it the drivers and passenger side do use separate relays. The relays are not serviceable, and are integrated into the multiplex integrated control unit. All other unlock switches in the vehicle are run through the passenger side relay.
Hope this information was helpful.
Just took a quick look at the electrical schematic for you. From the looks of it the drivers and passenger side do use separate relays. The relays are not serviceable, and are integrated into the multiplex integrated control unit. All other unlock switches in the vehicle are run through the passenger side relay.
Hope this information was helpful.
As I said the P0A7F is exactly what you scan tool says, IMA module deterioration. This means that your high voltage IMA battery is deteriorating. The system is constantly monitoring the SOC of the battery, and can tell when the battery is performing out of specification or radically.
If you check for DTCs and P1586 is not also appearing with P0A7F, clear the DTCs. Start the engine. At this point you’re suppose to have a Honda special diagnostic computer to tell you the exact SOC of the vehicle. Since this is not possible for the DIYer all you can do is hold the engine at about 3,500rpm and wait for the SOC gauge to read at about 70%. With an old battery this level might not be possible. Check for DTCs again. If P0A7F is back, and is not accompanied by P1586, you do need a replacement IMA battery. This is an extremely dangerous high voltage battery that you should not attempt to service yourself. Even on a malfunctioning battery the voltage CAN AND WILL HURT OR KILL YOU! At this point a dealership will have to replace the battery for you to achieve proper hybrid assist.
I hope the information I have provided proves to be helpful.
As I said the P0A7F is exactly what you scan tool says, IMA module deterioration. This means that your high voltage IMA battery is deteriorating. The system is constantly monitoring the SOC of the battery, and can tell when the battery is performing out of specification or radically.
If you check for DTCs and P1586 is not also appearing with P0A7F, clear the DTCs. Start the engine. At this point you’re suppose to have a Honda special diagnostic computer to tell you the exact SOC of the vehicle. Since this is not possible for the DIYer all you can do is hold the engine at about 3,500rpm and wait for the SOC gauge to read at about 70%. With an old battery this level might not be possible. Check for DTCs again. If P0A7F is back, and is not accompanied by P1586, you do need a replacement IMA battery. This is an extremely dangerous high voltage battery that you should not attempt to service yourself. Even on a malfunctioning battery the voltage CAN AND WILL HURT OR KILL YOU! At this point a dealership will have to replace the battery for you to achieve proper hybrid assist.
I hope the information I have provided proves to be helpful.
[quote=”robertkrome” post=92656] It had been making a sound like the heat shield on the cat was vibrating at certain RPMs but, I thought is was the heat shield… Rob><>[/quote]
Confirm that the heat shield is in fact not rattling. Just give the exhaust a friendly palm slap or two, and see if it rattles. Based on that rattle at certain RPMs what I have seen before in 2.4l engines is this. At certain engine speeds the engine loses oil pressure due to low level, incorrect viscosity, or mechanical failure. Due to the chain being tensioned by the oil system, when it loses pressure the chain is loose. This will cause an intermittent rattle that will go away once oil pressure resumes, and may or may not be accompanied by a low oil pressure light. The chain can stretch, or skip time.
Since you’ve already had the valve cover off to look at the chain I would take a look at the cams to make sure they’re still in time. You will find a punch mark on each cam, and they should be in the same place on each respective cam.
[quote=”robertkrome” post=92656] It had been making a sound like the heat shield on the cat was vibrating at certain RPMs but, I thought is was the heat shield… Rob><>[/quote]
Confirm that the heat shield is in fact not rattling. Just give the exhaust a friendly palm slap or two, and see if it rattles. Based on that rattle at certain RPMs what I have seen before in 2.4l engines is this. At certain engine speeds the engine loses oil pressure due to low level, incorrect viscosity, or mechanical failure. Due to the chain being tensioned by the oil system, when it loses pressure the chain is loose. This will cause an intermittent rattle that will go away once oil pressure resumes, and may or may not be accompanied by a low oil pressure light. The chain can stretch, or skip time.
Since you’ve already had the valve cover off to look at the chain I would take a look at the cams to make sure they’re still in time. You will find a punch mark on each cam, and they should be in the same place on each respective cam.
For a PT 2 tons is more than enough. Take into consideration that 2 tons is 4000 lbs. Technically if you had perfect balance that jack could lift the entire car. As stated previously though a good set of jack stands is also recommended. They’re more stable and have less possibility of failing while holding your vehicle.
For a PT 2 tons is more than enough. Take into consideration that 2 tons is 4000 lbs. Technically if you had perfect balance that jack could lift the entire car. As stated previously though a good set of jack stands is also recommended. They’re more stable and have less possibility of failing while holding your vehicle.
Streamlight Stylus pro, tread depth gauge, pocket prybar, pen, and name badge. Back pocket always has a folded clean shop towel.
Streamlight Stylus pro, tread depth gauge, pocket prybar, pen, and name badge. Back pocket always has a folded clean shop towel.
Hello there, sorry you’re having issues. Wondering if you could answer a few things just for a more general feel of what your CR-V is doing.
How many miles are on the engine?
Does the engine crank normally when you turn the key? As in does it sounds like it normally does when you attempted to start the car in the past, besides the no start issue?
Did it do anything out of the usual before the stall?
When you turn the key to the run position, just before actually starting the engine, does the immobi light (the green key) turn off or stay on?
How long was it since your last oil change, and how much oil is or was in the vehicle during the time of the stall? Do you generally keep a healthy oil change schedule?
Again, just attempting to get a better idea of the conditions that were or are taking place.
Hope to hear back from you soon.