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I am squeezing the tabs, pulling with the pliers, and the thing will jiggle but not disconnect. I am concerned if I apply more force I will break it. Suggestions?
~ Pop
Thank you! Turns out the tube in the pic was the one. I had just inadvertently buried it when reinstalling the upper intake. I pulled it back into position and it hooked right up! Thanks again!
No check engine light, but I did find the o-rings for the leaking injector were toast. I replaced o-rings, and injector no longer leaks/pools gas.
However, once the engine is warm. the truck still stalls out at traffic lights as soon as you give it the gas. The onhly way to avoid stall is to rev to about 1500 rpm in neutral and then drop it into drive.
I will hook up muy scanner and see if there are any codes even though CEL is not lit.
OK, I have had some more time to monkey with this.
The wire on the back of the alternator is fine — no corrosion. I cleaned the contacts between alternator and bracket, as I was getting some high negative voltage drop readings previously.
I put everything back together and took some more readings. Here is what I have found:
With accessories on and engine at ~1500 rpm:
1. Hooked black multimeter lead to neg batt post, red to pos batt post — reading is 13.7 volts
2. Black lead to neg batt post, red lead to alt case – 150 millivolts, which I believe translates to .15 volts.
3. Black lead to neg batt post, red lead to alt braccket – 130 millivolts, which I believe translates to .13 volts.4. Red lead to pos batt post, black to alternator b+ post: 240 millivolts, or .24 volts
5. Red lead to pos batt post, black to alternator b+ post nut: 260 millivolts, or .26 volts
6. Red lead to pos batt post, black to alternator wire lead: 230 millivolts, or .23 volts
7. Red lead to pos batt post, black to alternator b+ contacts base: 220 millivolts, or .22 voltsThere is no longer any red-hot spot on the alt post, but the whole alternator is very hot to the touch, hotter in the back than the front. It gets hotter under load, less hot when accessories off.
Oh, before all this today I had removed the alternator from the truck and had it tested at Advance Auto Parts. It tested out fine on their machine.
Any thoughts on what alll this means?
If I have to cut off some corroded wire I can splice on new wire of the same guage to cure any resulting length problems, correct?
Well my voltage drops are too high on both the positive and negative sides. When I turn on all the accessories the post on the back of the alternator gets very hot, as well. There is even a spot on the side of the nut that turns bright red. The red-hot spot disappears when i turn the accessories off and reappears when I turn them back on. I will clean everything up (though battery contacts themselves are already clean) and report back again.
Problem solved! It was the VATS system. Installed the repar kit, and she roared to life!
My daughter is very happy to have her car back on the road.
You guys ROCK!
Thanks all for all the valuable input. I really appreciate it.
In the end I could not remove the broken off bolt, so I ended up getting a HeliCoil kit from NAPA, drilled it out and re-threaded the hole, and installed a new bolt. The bracket is now tight.
Also, in the course of this exercise I noticed the belt tensioner was fried, so I replaced it along with the belt. Truck is back up and running like a champ!
This forum ROCKS, and you guys, who are so generous with your time, experience, and knowledge, make it so.
So, a heartfelt THANK YOU for helpiong me and my family save money, and a ton of it at that, on car repairs.
Guys, thank you all for your wealth of knowledge. With your help I have made some progress, but it is pretty clear that my hole is off center; though I have drilled past the bottom of the bolt. I tried to start off as close to center as possible, but it was a little bit difficult as I am looking down into the engine compartment and have to drill perpendicular to my line of sight. Am I now “out of the frying pan and into the fire”, so to speak? Any advice for me at this juncture? Thanks, Pop
I think what I am going to do is purchase and install a kit to bypass the VATS system. Anyone have a particular kit they recommend I buy? Thanks, Pop.
I have tried both keys we have for the car, and neither can start the car. These keys are not programmable per se, they just have a resistor block on the key shaft, which measures 680 ohms. From some reading I have done, I now need to check the resistance at a connector of two small white wires coming out of the steering column. That should tell me if the problem is the ignition lock cylinder or not.
OK, I verified again that I have a fully charged battery. I also checked for voltage at the starter terminal with key in START. Zero voltage. I noticed that the SECURITY light flashes on the dashboard when key is in start position. I am starting to suspect this has something to do with the passive security system on this car, which uses a resistor thing on the key and presumably some kind of resistance check in the ignition. Out of curiosity I put the key in the RUN position and ran a wire from the battery positive to the S terminal on the Starter. When I touched the wire to the positive battery terminal, the starter engaged and cranked the engine just fine, but the engine did not fire. To my untrained mind this is a little more evidence that the security system is keeping this thing from starting, because from what I have read the security system also shuts down the injectors. Can the security module be bypassed? No one is going to steal a 95 Lesabre, we just want this thing to start when we turn the key. Any ideas appreciated!
