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This is some good Discussions 🙂
Here is my `two cents` worth of information:
[ol]
1) Keep your tip clean and tinned!- A) Turn on your Iron and let it heat to 650°F-800°F (depending on what you are working on…)
(A rule of thumb is use the LEAST amount of HEAT possible to do the job at hand.)
-Repeat HEAT KILLS electronics and electrical connections! - B ) Once it is at temperature wipe the tip on the damp sponge
- C) Apply just a bit of solder to the tip…(More on solder types later)
- D) Now Join the two wires
- E) touch the tip to one side of the wire and the solder to the other side. (EricTCG you are correct, let the wire draw the solder into the wire. The solder strand should not directly touch the tip only the wire you are using.
- F) Remove the soldering strand and the tip of the iron and let the joint cool naturally
- G) NEVER blow on the connection to cool the joint quickly. This will lead to a cold solder joint one day. (Cold solder joints will make you very sad, frustrated, and angry trying to diagnose.)
- H) go to the Next wire or if it is going to be a few minuets then Put a blob of solder on the tip of the iron to protect the tip from oxidation. (ALSO do this BEFORE YOU TURN THE IRON OFF TO COOL DOWN) This ->Blob<- will protect the tip from oxidation and killing the tip of the Iron.
- I) If you follow these steps with any solder joint, (Tin, clean, solder, clean, blob to protect, repeat… followed by a blob on the tip before you turn it off.) YOUR SOLDERING IRON TIP WILL LAST YOU FOR YEARS!
[ul]
2) Types of Solder.- A) Yes EricTCG the first solder you used was Lead Free, Or ROHS (Reduction of Hazardous Substances…in electronics) (its like 90% tin and 10% mixture of other metals) (Lead free begins to melt at 750°F)
[li] B ) The second type of solder is 60/40 (60%Lead/40%tin + Rosin core)(60/40 begins to melt at 625-650°F)
[li]C) DO NOT MIX THE TWO!!! (Like Egon Said in Ghost busters, ”DO NOT CROSS THE STREAMS!
”)
most electonic manufacturers have two soldering irons at each work bench… one for lead free (ROHS) and one for 60/40 lead solder.3) No one has mentioned IPC-A-610 and IPC-J-STD-001 the soldering standards.
[li]A) This is the Bible / Gosple of soldering wires, circuit boards, any thing dealing with solder and electronics
[li]B ) this is a sample of what IPC certification entailsAbout ME:
-I have an BS in Electronics Eng. Technology From The University of Southern Mississippi. (USM TO THE TOP!!!)
-I was a PCB (Printed circuit board) design Eng. for a Commercial x86 Intel Motherboard company.
(think like this… If the PC you are typing on right now is a Honda accord or Toyota Camery then these PCs were the industrial 18 Wheeler’s of the PC industry)
-I now work for Nissan as a Process engineer at a Manufacturing plant producing cars and Trucks handling things like electronics and software programming.This is some good Discussions 🙂
Here is my `two cents` worth of information:
[ol]
1) Keep your tip clean and tinned!- A) Turn on your Iron and let it heat to 650°F-800°F (depending on what you are working on…)
(A rule of thumb is use the LEAST amount of HEAT possible to do the job at hand.)
-Repeat HEAT KILLS electronics and electrical connections! - B ) Once it is at temperature wipe the tip on the damp sponge
- C) Apply just a bit of solder to the tip…(More on solder types later)
- D) Now Join the two wires
- E) touch the tip to one side of the wire and the solder to the other side. (EricTCG you are correct, let the wire draw the solder into the wire. The solder strand should not directly touch the tip only the wire you are using.
- F) Remove the soldering strand and the tip of the iron and let the joint cool naturally
- G) NEVER blow on the connection to cool the joint quickly. This will lead to a cold solder joint one day. (Cold solder joints will make you very sad, frustrated, and angry trying to diagnose.)
- H) go to the Next wire or if it is going to be a few minuets then Put a blob of solder on the tip of the iron to protect the tip from oxidation. (ALSO do this BEFORE YOU TURN THE IRON OFF TO COOL DOWN) This ->Blob<- will protect the tip from oxidation and killing the tip of the Iron.
- I) If you follow these steps with any solder joint, (Tin, clean, solder, clean, blob to protect, repeat… followed by a blob on the tip before you turn it off.) YOUR SOLDERING IRON TIP WILL LAST YOU FOR YEARS!
[ul]
2) Types of Solder.- A) Yes EricTCG the first solder you used was Lead Free, Or ROHS (Reduction of Hazardous Substances…in electronics) (its like 90% tin and 10% mixture of other metals) (Lead free begins to melt at 750°F)
[li] B ) The second type of solder is 60/40 (60%Lead/40%tin + Rosin core)(60/40 begins to melt at 625-650°F)
[li]C) DO NOT MIX THE TWO!!! (Like Egon Said in Ghost busters, ”DO NOT CROSS THE STREAMS!
”)
most electonic manufacturers have two soldering irons at each work bench… one for lead free (ROHS) and one for 60/40 lead solder.3) No one has mentioned IPC-A-610 and IPC-J-STD-001 the soldering standards.
[li]A) This is the Bible / Gosple of soldering wires, circuit boards, any thing dealing with solder and electronics
[li]B ) this is a sample of what IPC certification entailsAbout ME:
-I have an BS in Electronics Eng. Technology From The University of Southern Mississippi. (USM TO THE TOP!!!)
-I was a PCB (Printed circuit board) design Eng. for a Commercial x86 Intel Motherboard company.
(think like this… If the PC you are typing on right now is a Honda accord or Toyota Camery then these PCs were the industrial 18 Wheeler’s of the PC industry)
-I now work for Nissan as a Process engineer at a Manufacturing plant producing cars and Trucks handling things like electronics and software programming. - A) Turn on your Iron and let it heat to 650°F-800°F (depending on what you are working on…)