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Yes. I stated in my first post that the earlier models of the Ecotec engines had a problem with the tensioner. It is possible that the tensioner was bad from the factory or that a guide may have broken or came loose.
Yes. I stated in my first post that the earlier models of the Ecotec engines had a problem with the tensioner. It is possible that the tensioner was bad from the factory or that a guide may have broken or came loose.
[quote=”Passey” post=56964]If oil was getting past the rings wouldn’t the smoke be a blue tint color?[/quote]
typically yes. But I’ve noticed that sometimes when oil gets burned, it appears more white than blue when its a small amount of oil.[quote=”Passey” post=56964]If oil was getting past the rings wouldn’t the smoke be a blue tint color?[/quote]
typically yes. But I’ve noticed that sometimes when oil gets burned, it appears more white than blue when its a small amount of oil.It could be as simple as bad intake/exhaust gasket. A simple way ($5-7) test to check if it’s the intake gasket is to spray some carb spray into the intake. If the idle is smoother, it’s the intake gasket most likely. A free test for the exhaust is to feel around the header (obviously don’t get too close as it will be hot!). If you feel some exhaust coming from the sides, on top of, or beneath, you have an exhaust gasket leak.
It could be as simple as bad intake/exhaust gasket. A simple way ($5-7) test to check if it’s the intake gasket is to spray some carb spray into the intake. If the idle is smoother, it’s the intake gasket most likely. A free test for the exhaust is to feel around the header (obviously don’t get too close as it will be hot!). If you feel some exhaust coming from the sides, on top of, or beneath, you have an exhaust gasket leak.
Another possibility is that you could call the dealership in the next town over and see if they would take a look at it for you and try to figure out the problem. If there is no luck there, then you could attempt to look at it yourself and try to tighten the bolts. I have listed, in a post earlier, the locations of the mounts so they are easier for you to find all 4.
Another possibility is that you could call the dealership in the next town over and see if they would take a look at it for you and try to figure out the problem. If there is no luck there, then you could attempt to look at it yourself and try to tighten the bolts. I have listed, in a post earlier, the locations of the mounts so they are easier for you to find all 4.
A few things it could also be. The head or block may be warped a bit to cause a small crack for coolant to slowly drip in. At higher RPM’s the block gets hotter which would expand the metal and could help seal up the crack. Then after idling for 10 minutes, it could re-open as the block cooled down. If the head was taken off without the coolant having been drained, antifreeze could have gotten into your catalytic converter which could explain the smoke. Though it is unlikely due to when the smoke appears. Lastly, what if the piston rings or the sleeve got damaged a little, it could let a tiny bit of oil past the pistons and into the cylinder. It explains the smoke. Plus, like if the head/block was warped, the high temperatures would finish sealing the gap and then once it cooled down, it would reveal it again. Just some ideas to bounce around.
A few things it could also be. The head or block may be warped a bit to cause a small crack for coolant to slowly drip in. At higher RPM’s the block gets hotter which would expand the metal and could help seal up the crack. Then after idling for 10 minutes, it could re-open as the block cooled down. If the head was taken off without the coolant having been drained, antifreeze could have gotten into your catalytic converter which could explain the smoke. Though it is unlikely due to when the smoke appears. Lastly, what if the piston rings or the sleeve got damaged a little, it could let a tiny bit of oil past the pistons and into the cylinder. It explains the smoke. Plus, like if the head/block was warped, the high temperatures would finish sealing the gap and then once it cooled down, it would reveal it again. Just some ideas to bounce around.
If you don’t have much knowledge on cars and the dealership won’t touch it, I’d suggest taking it to a reputable shop in your town that will check the mounts over. Most shops will be honest and not try to rip you off. But just in case, verbally say you just want to have a technician check the mounts if they are loose or damaged. If they say one is damaged, get proof. Ask for them to show you the damaged mount (you can even go so far as to watch them take the mount off or you can crawl/walk under if it’s safe).
As for dealerships, some will do everything in their power to avoid warranty work because it loses them money. So they may secretly have an idea but say it’s fine so if something happens outside of warranty and it’s a big job, they can rake in the money. Now it’s almost never the case, but once in the blue moon it can be.
If you don’t have much knowledge on cars and the dealership won’t touch it, I’d suggest taking it to a reputable shop in your town that will check the mounts over. Most shops will be honest and not try to rip you off. But just in case, verbally say you just want to have a technician check the mounts if they are loose or damaged. If they say one is damaged, get proof. Ask for them to show you the damaged mount (you can even go so far as to watch them take the mount off or you can crawl/walk under if it’s safe).
As for dealerships, some will do everything in their power to avoid warranty work because it loses them money. So they may secretly have an idea but say it’s fine so if something happens outside of warranty and it’s a big job, they can rake in the money. Now it’s almost never the case, but once in the blue moon it can be.
I am going to have to agree with College Man with his theory on what happened. I’ve done some extensive research on this particular series of engine (just finished rebuilding mine from the bottom up). But if the plan is to get it running, here are some of the things you will have to look at (assuming it will be done by your friend). From my personal experience, it’s easier to drop the engine and transmission as a whole.
When taking off the head, check the valves and make sure they are not bent (You can release the bearing bolts (10mm) to remove the camshafts and check the valves all at once. If you have compressed air, spray air down the exhaust/intake ports and feel for air (better than just your eye)). If the valves are flat, great. If not, it can run you anywhere from $8-25 a valve (depending on who you know and the source) plus machine work (for valve seating and grinding)).
After draining the oil, open the timing cover. Check the guides. If any are loose, check the bolt holes holding them in (all bolts for the guides are 10mm), the threads may be stripped (the heli-coil pack for this issue will be a m6x1). If a guide is broken, replace it and check the threads just to be safe. If it’s a guide for the timing chain specifically, a timing chain kit (I’ve seen them for about $150 from a part store) should come with new guides, cam sprockets, cam bolts, tensioner, oiler, and the chain. Chances are you will have to get new camshafts. I don’t know the price of the stock cams, but you can upgrade your cams from Comp Cams for about $500. Then timing chain tensioner is a pain to get out but it uses a 30mm socket/wrench. All the guide bolts are torqued to 89 inch lbs and the tensioner is torqued to 56-60 ft lbs (I don’t remember the cam gear bolt or bearing bolt torque off the top of my head).
This should help you figure out what to do or what has to be done to fix it. It’s most likely going to be under $1000 to fix it.
I am going to have to agree with College Man with his theory on what happened. I’ve done some extensive research on this particular series of engine (just finished rebuilding mine from the bottom up). But if the plan is to get it running, here are some of the things you will have to look at (assuming it will be done by your friend). From my personal experience, it’s easier to drop the engine and transmission as a whole.
When taking off the head, check the valves and make sure they are not bent (You can release the bearing bolts (10mm) to remove the camshafts and check the valves all at once. If you have compressed air, spray air down the exhaust/intake ports and feel for air (better than just your eye)). If the valves are flat, great. If not, it can run you anywhere from $8-25 a valve (depending on who you know and the source) plus machine work (for valve seating and grinding)).
After draining the oil, open the timing cover. Check the guides. If any are loose, check the bolt holes holding them in (all bolts for the guides are 10mm), the threads may be stripped (the heli-coil pack for this issue will be a m6x1). If a guide is broken, replace it and check the threads just to be safe. If it’s a guide for the timing chain specifically, a timing chain kit (I’ve seen them for about $150 from a part store) should come with new guides, cam sprockets, cam bolts, tensioner, oiler, and the chain. Chances are you will have to get new camshafts. I don’t know the price of the stock cams, but you can upgrade your cams from Comp Cams for about $500. Then timing chain tensioner is a pain to get out but it uses a 30mm socket/wrench. All the guide bolts are torqued to 89 inch lbs and the tensioner is torqued to 56-60 ft lbs (I don’t remember the cam gear bolt or bearing bolt torque off the top of my head).
This should help you figure out what to do or what has to be done to fix it. It’s most likely going to be under $1000 to fix it.
Unlikely a mount would be bad. Just the bolts may be loose. Check the bushings for cracks (which being just less than 2 years old, it’s highly unlikely) while looking at the mounts to see if they need replacing. As for checking if the mounts are tight, you will need the following size sockets/wrenches (98% of the time): 13mm, 15mm, and 18mm.