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key on engine off pressure was at 40 psi. It holds pressure. I just rigged up my voltmeter so I can test the voltage near the fuel pump when it acts up. I highly doubt it’s a relay problem simply due to the fact that I switched it with a new relay. But I’m hoping maybe I’ll see some activity to help me find out if it’s a wiring issue from the rely.
So I ran a fuel pressure test again. Idle at 38 and with FPR line off it jumped to 45. To help rule out a faulty relay, I replaced it with an appropriate relay. Still same result for fuel pressure. But with the information you gave me, I will probably do some research tonight to see if anyone else had a problem with the fuel pressure regulator that had the same symptoms.
So I ran a fuel pressure test again. Idle at 38 and with FPR line off it jumped to 45. To help rule out a faulty relay, I replaced it with an appropriate relay. Still same result for fuel pressure. But with the information you gave me, I will probably do some research tonight to see if anyone else had a problem with the fuel pressure regulator that had the same symptoms.
If it’s happening during acceleration, it’s extremely unlikely it would be a rotor issue. Check the axles out as well as the bearings, ball joints, and sway bar linkage. It also could be a steering issue (the pitman arm specifically). So check the pitman arm, bushings, and tie-rods while you are at it. A good way to test if it’s a steering issue is to turn the vehicle on (don’t crank it over and start it) and watch the tires as you spin the steering wheel. If it feels like there is play in the rotation (like you have to rotate it 90 degrees (1/4 turn) before it moves the tire) of the wheel, then it’s highly likely the culprit lives there. Generally a little play in rotation is normal on older vehicles. But personally, past 15-20 degrees, I would suggest replacing the problem before it gets worse.
If it’s happening during acceleration, it’s extremely unlikely it would be a rotor issue. Check the axles out as well as the bearings, ball joints, and sway bar linkage. It also could be a steering issue (the pitman arm specifically). So check the pitman arm, bushings, and tie-rods while you are at it. A good way to test if it’s a steering issue is to turn the vehicle on (don’t crank it over and start it) and watch the tires as you spin the steering wheel. If it feels like there is play in the rotation (like you have to rotate it 90 degrees (1/4 turn) before it moves the tire) of the wheel, then it’s highly likely the culprit lives there. Generally a little play in rotation is normal on older vehicles. But personally, past 15-20 degrees, I would suggest replacing the problem before it gets worse.
The IR W7150 is amazing. My friend bought one about 3 months ago. It’s a bit bulkier and a little heavier than an pneumatic but it still took off axle nuts without breaking a sweat. As far as a cordless impact goes, I would spend the money on it. My personal toy is the Snap-On 3/8″ cordless with 14.4 volt high output batteries. I use it almost all the time (for some small, all middle, and few big jobs (to either back of or start)). A battery usually lasts me 3-4 days before I have to recharge it and grab a new battery. On a fresh battery, it gets lug nuts about 20 degrees from 100 ft lb torque (passenger car) on every lug nut. Which isn’t too bad. It has a steady power curve until it has about 20-30% battery voltage left, then it drops in power dramatically if you try to put it on a load.
The IR W7150 is amazing. My friend bought one about 3 months ago. It’s a bit bulkier and a little heavier than an pneumatic but it still took off axle nuts without breaking a sweat. As far as a cordless impact goes, I would spend the money on it. My personal toy is the Snap-On 3/8″ cordless with 14.4 volt high output batteries. I use it almost all the time (for some small, all middle, and few big jobs (to either back of or start)). A battery usually lasts me 3-4 days before I have to recharge it and grab a new battery. On a fresh battery, it gets lug nuts about 20 degrees from 100 ft lb torque (passenger car) on every lug nut. Which isn’t too bad. It has a steady power curve until it has about 20-30% battery voltage left, then it drops in power dramatically if you try to put it on a load.
If it gets louder or you have drivability problems, stop driving it. Getting it checked out and solved as soon as possible would be the best idea.
If it gets louder or you have drivability problems, stop driving it. Getting it checked out and solved as soon as possible would be the best idea.
I had actually already watched that video (it’s how I ended up here asking in the first place). I just decided to go the mixed route and constantly change the RPM between 700-3200. Never staying at one set RPM for more than 5 seconds. After doing that (in neutral with the wheels off) for about 20 minutes, I revved it up to 4000 RPM real quick and dropped it immediately. Let it vary from 700-3500 for another 5-10 minutes and then shot the RPM to 4200. Then I let it idle at 750 RPM for 5 minutes then varied the RPM for another 4-6 minutes then shot the RPM to 5000 and immediately dropped it to 3500 then slowly let it drop to idle. Sounds smooth except the valves tapping the seats lightly. Thanks though.
I had actually already watched that video (it’s how I ended up here asking in the first place). I just decided to go the mixed route and constantly change the RPM between 700-3200. Never staying at one set RPM for more than 5 seconds. After doing that (in neutral with the wheels off) for about 20 minutes, I revved it up to 4000 RPM real quick and dropped it immediately. Let it vary from 700-3500 for another 5-10 minutes and then shot the RPM to 4200. Then I let it idle at 750 RPM for 5 minutes then varied the RPM for another 4-6 minutes then shot the RPM to 5000 and immediately dropped it to 3500 then slowly let it drop to idle. Sounds smooth except the valves tapping the seats lightly. Thanks though.
Also, you cannot really adjust the valves themselves because they have overhead camshafts. The components are as follows: Hydraulic lifters, roller rockers, valves, and camshafts. The roller rockers rest on top of the valves and the hydraulic lifters. As the camshaft spins, it pushes down on the roller rocker which in turn pushes the valves down. The lifters (or lash adjusters) sit in little holes in the head (the lifters are about 1″ tall and 1/4″ wide).
Also, you cannot really adjust the valves themselves because they have overhead camshafts. The components are as follows: Hydraulic lifters, roller rockers, valves, and camshafts. The roller rockers rest on top of the valves and the hydraulic lifters. As the camshaft spins, it pushes down on the roller rocker which in turn pushes the valves down. The lifters (or lash adjusters) sit in little holes in the head (the lifters are about 1″ tall and 1/4″ wide).