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PCM from what I was able to find from the limited availability of wiring diagrams on the internet.
Well it seems the problem is back. However, its not jerking when it acts up. It’s a lot smoother now. Like its just missing spark. I checked the wire and the loom melted a little more. So I’m going to first try and relocate it again but this time im going to add some electrical tape and check the tape every so often. If I have no luck after a while, I might buy some hose, slice it open, and put the wires inside the hose. Help keep it isolated from heat and metal. Might also replace that wiring, sensor, and connector.
Well it seems the problem is back. However, its not jerking when it acts up. It’s a lot smoother now. Like its just missing spark. I checked the wire and the loom melted a little more. So I’m going to first try and relocate it again but this time im going to add some electrical tape and check the tape every so often. If I have no luck after a while, I might buy some hose, slice it open, and put the wires inside the hose. Help keep it isolated from heat and metal. Might also replace that wiring, sensor, and connector.
Grounds are good. I know they are. The ground it uses is on the sending unit with a clip connector on it. Here is another example of how weird it is. All I did was loosen the bolt on the driver’s side strap all the way and it worked. I checked for pinched wires and I noticed an area where it was pinched. All the wires looked fine (none broken or cracked). I get the bolt back in and it doesn’t work (with no wires being pinched). I don’t know what is going on here. But, I may get a longer bolt with the same pitch and add a spacer between the strap and the uni-body to see if it’ll work that way. At least I know if I want to check my fuel level, all I have to do is keep my cordless impact (from Snap-on and I love it to death; huge time saver) and a 15mm socket handy. Bit of a hassle, but at least I know I can if I’m unsure of my fuel level.
Grounds are good. I know they are. The ground it uses is on the sending unit with a clip connector on it. Here is another example of how weird it is. All I did was loosen the bolt on the driver’s side strap all the way and it worked. I checked for pinched wires and I noticed an area where it was pinched. All the wires looked fine (none broken or cracked). I get the bolt back in and it doesn’t work (with no wires being pinched). I don’t know what is going on here. But, I may get a longer bolt with the same pitch and add a spacer between the strap and the uni-body to see if it’ll work that way. At least I know if I want to check my fuel level, all I have to do is keep my cordless impact (from Snap-on and I love it to death; huge time saver) and a 15mm socket handy. Bit of a hassle, but at least I know I can if I’m unsure of my fuel level.
So far so good. Nearly 9 days and over 200 miles. However, my sending unit is weird. When the tank is on the ground, it works fine. When it’s mounted up to the car, it doesn’t. I know there are no shorts. So, I’m going to check for wires not liking a certain position. Any Ideas?
So far so good. Nearly 9 days and over 200 miles. However, my sending unit is weird. When the tank is on the ground, it works fine. When it’s mounted up to the car, it doesn’t. I know there are no shorts. So, I’m going to check for wires not liking a certain position. Any Ideas?
100-120ish miles and still going strong.
100-120ish miles and still going strong.
[quote=”wysetech” post=69679]If the crank sensor wires are not routed correctly on those cars they will touch the exhaust and burn through.[/quote]
I’m guessing it happened when I did the head gaskets. Regardless, I did relocate the wires as best as I could without getting too close to the headers.
Other than that, 30ish miles and no problem yet. I do have to drop the tank again as it seems my floater camemust have barely come loose off the assembly. Until then I’m running with x% fuel. Haha.
[quote=”wysetech” post=69679]If the crank sensor wires are not routed correctly on those cars they will touch the exhaust and burn through.[/quote]
I’m guessing it happened when I did the head gaskets. Regardless, I did relocate the wires as best as I could without getting too close to the headers.
Other than that, 30ish miles and no problem yet. I do have to drop the tank again as it seems my floater camemust have barely come loose off the assembly. Until then I’m running with x% fuel. Haha.
The 95 Grand Prix has been the main vehicle in discussion. When I mention my friend’s car, it’s the 91 Honda Civic SI.
Well, I planned on hooking up a narrow band air/fuel gauge to my Grand Prix to see how the O2 is reading to help eliminate that. Upon looking, I noticed a wire that led from the lower rear of the block (probably the crankshaft position sensor) up to the primary side of the ignition module. It seems to have been the crankshaft position sensor. It was resting on a part of the header and seems to have melted a bit of the insulation (not a terrible amount). I relocated those wires. I also replaced my fuel pump. Drove around for about an hour without a hiccup. So I don’t know if it was the pump or the wires, but so far so good. Fuel pressure has varied from 36-46 (depending on load) which is better than it was. I don’t know if I fixed it for sure, but if I didn’t, then I at least postponed it for a little bit longer. Guess I’ll know in a couple weeks.
The 95 Grand Prix has been the main vehicle in discussion. When I mention my friend’s car, it’s the 91 Honda Civic SI.
Well, I planned on hooking up a narrow band air/fuel gauge to my Grand Prix to see how the O2 is reading to help eliminate that. Upon looking, I noticed a wire that led from the lower rear of the block (probably the crankshaft position sensor) up to the primary side of the ignition module. It seems to have been the crankshaft position sensor. It was resting on a part of the header and seems to have melted a bit of the insulation (not a terrible amount). I relocated those wires. I also replaced my fuel pump. Drove around for about an hour without a hiccup. So I don’t know if it was the pump or the wires, but so far so good. Fuel pressure has varied from 36-46 (depending on load) which is better than it was. I don’t know if I fixed it for sure, but if I didn’t, then I at least postponed it for a little bit longer. Guess I’ll know in a couple weeks.
No luck yet on anything yet. I replaced a few of the cheaper parts to help me either rule out or figure out the problem. I replaced the oil pressure sensor/switch, engine coolant temperature sensor, and the fuel pressure regulator (smelt a strong fuel smell in the line). After doing that, my problem persists. My fuel pressure is 35-36 on idle. I have a strong feeling it’s the fuel pump. Just called my local GM dealer and they say it’s supposed to be between 40.5-47 psi. So I’m gonna end up grabbing one. But in case that isn’t the problem, let me give some more information on how it’s acting now.
Every day it seems like I can only travel a little shorter until it acts up. Instead of it’s typical response, now I’m usually fine until it gets warm and I stop at a stop sign/light. When I try to accelerate at all, it sounds like it’s only hitting on one cylinder and I slowly creep to a safe place at 1 mph. I’ve also noticed a couple times that when the pump was warm and I turned my car on (engine off) (relieved fuel pressure), I couldn’t hear my fuel pump prime or it was very faint. So, I’ll probably replace that Saturday and hope all is well from there on out.
No luck yet on anything yet. I replaced a few of the cheaper parts to help me either rule out or figure out the problem. I replaced the oil pressure sensor/switch, engine coolant temperature sensor, and the fuel pressure regulator (smelt a strong fuel smell in the line). After doing that, my problem persists. My fuel pressure is 35-36 on idle. I have a strong feeling it’s the fuel pump. Just called my local GM dealer and they say it’s supposed to be between 40.5-47 psi. So I’m gonna end up grabbing one. But in case that isn’t the problem, let me give some more information on how it’s acting now.
Every day it seems like I can only travel a little shorter until it acts up. Instead of it’s typical response, now I’m usually fine until it gets warm and I stop at a stop sign/light. When I try to accelerate at all, it sounds like it’s only hitting on one cylinder and I slowly creep to a safe place at 1 mph. I’ve also noticed a couple times that when the pump was warm and I turned my car on (engine off) (relieved fuel pressure), I couldn’t hear my fuel pump prime or it was very faint. So, I’ll probably replace that Saturday and hope all is well from there on out.
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