Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I’ve installed them on a few of my vehicles and it does make a decently big difference. Pedal feels firmer, you have more confidence in braking (because the rubber cannot expand and possibly pop), and are just a little bit more than the part stores lines (so reasonably cost effective. One thing to think about is how many 10 year old cars are actually out there with factory brake lines. There are a ton. So if you get quality braided brake hoses, they will last for years as well. Personally, I prefer Goodridge. They make everything to order (custom setups or factory design (for fittings and lengths). They are DOT approved and their lines typically test 15% or better over DOT specs.
I’ve installed them on a few of my vehicles and it does make a decently big difference. Pedal feels firmer, you have more confidence in braking (because the rubber cannot expand and possibly pop), and are just a little bit more than the part stores lines (so reasonably cost effective. One thing to think about is how many 10 year old cars are actually out there with factory brake lines. There are a ton. So if you get quality braided brake hoses, they will last for years as well. Personally, I prefer Goodridge. They make everything to order (custom setups or factory design (for fittings and lengths). They are DOT approved and their lines typically test 15% or better over DOT specs.
I would clean out the PCV and all other breathing components. My friend did that to his 91 Civic Si Hatch the other week and reduced all the oil coming from his exhaust. However, he wasn’t consuming much oil at all (1/10th of a quart a month). If it’s consuming a lot of oil (like a quart a month or more) it’s likely to be the piston rings with the engine having 250k miles.
I would clean out the PCV and all other breathing components. My friend did that to his 91 Civic Si Hatch the other week and reduced all the oil coming from his exhaust. However, he wasn’t consuming much oil at all (1/10th of a quart a month). If it’s consuming a lot of oil (like a quart a month or more) it’s likely to be the piston rings with the engine having 250k miles.
Thanks for the diagram and information. Sorry it took me so long to get back, my brother was in town visiting for a week. All the wiring (colors and pins) matched so I’m confident it is wired the same as stock.
For my results. For E8-11, I got the exact same reading both KOEoff and KOEon, they were 30 mV. So either I’m not getting power to the solenoids or the ground drivers aren’t working. I tested the ignition source to the PCM and I was getting 12+ volts.
Thanks for the diagram and information. Sorry it took me so long to get back, my brother was in town visiting for a week. All the wiring (colors and pins) matched so I’m confident it is wired the same as stock.
For my results. For E8-11, I got the exact same reading both KOEoff and KOEon, they were 30 mV. So either I’m not getting power to the solenoids or the ground drivers aren’t working. I tested the ignition source to the PCM and I was getting 12+ volts.
I know all the solenoids work. Ohm tested the new solenoids and checked the new harness inside the transmission. That’s all good.
I’d appreciate the wiring diagram from the PCM to the Trans. Thanks.
I know all the solenoids work. Ohm tested the new solenoids and checked the new harness inside the transmission. That’s all good.
I’d appreciate the wiring diagram from the PCM to the Trans. Thanks.
Sorry it took me a while to reply, busy with work.
The issue is that the transmission (4l60E) is in limp mode. The codes the computer gave me were all solenoid related. I know that the TCC can cause the rest of the solenoids to stop working (based on the wiring diagrams I’ve found). I’ve confirmed that the harness has proper power. I’ve replaced all the solenoids as well as the harness inside the transmission (also ohmed the solenoids). If I’ve got adequate power to everything and I know the solenoids are in spec, all that’s left is PCM (ground drivers inside it for the trans solenoids) right?
Eric: It starts up and drives fine. I’ve checked other possibilities for poor performance and they are all good. Unless I shift the shifter to first or second, it’s in third gear. Reverse works well, but acts like it’s in second gear. It’s really easy to test which gear the transmission is in as I live in the mountains in Montana. So luckily there’s a noticeable difference between gears.
Sorry it took me a while to reply, busy with work.
The issue is that the transmission (4l60E) is in limp mode. The codes the computer gave me were all solenoid related. I know that the TCC can cause the rest of the solenoids to stop working (based on the wiring diagrams I’ve found). I’ve confirmed that the harness has proper power. I’ve replaced all the solenoids as well as the harness inside the transmission (also ohmed the solenoids). If I’ve got adequate power to everything and I know the solenoids are in spec, all that’s left is PCM (ground drivers inside it for the trans solenoids) right?
Eric: It starts up and drives fine. I’ve checked other possibilities for poor performance and they are all good. Unless I shift the shifter to first or second, it’s in third gear. Reverse works well, but acts like it’s in second gear. It’s really easy to test which gear the transmission is in as I live in the mountains in Montana. So luckily there’s a noticeable difference between gears.
I talked to a friend who went to UTI for transmissions and currently specializes with GM Hydromatics. He suggested that doing an ohm test on the solenoids first. Also directed me to a site for a procedure on the entire issue: http://www.trutechtrans.com/Topic-1-00-01.html
It says: Check resistance of 1-2 solenoid with your meter from terminal A (LT GRN) to terminal E (PNK or PNK/BLK). Resistance value should be 20 to 30 OHMs. Then check resistance of 2-3 shift solenoid with your meter from terminal B (YEL or YEL/BLK) to terminal E (PNK or PNK/BLK).
I didn’t have a spare harness so I used small alligator clips and a DVM. The harness letters didn’t match up to the colors. So I tested both ways. Pink was on C, yellow and light green were on F and G. No resistance on anything at all except terminals A and D. A didn’t have a wire on the harness and D was black. Making me think that the part the the harness plugs into has failed. But with the wiring being different, who knows. Hope this helps you to help me out. Thanks
I talked to a friend who went to UTI for transmissions and currently specializes with GM Hydromatics. He suggested that doing an ohm test on the solenoids first. Also directed me to a site for a procedure on the entire issue: http://www.trutechtrans.com/Topic-1-00-01.html
It says: Check resistance of 1-2 solenoid with your meter from terminal A (LT GRN) to terminal E (PNK or PNK/BLK). Resistance value should be 20 to 30 OHMs. Then check resistance of 2-3 shift solenoid with your meter from terminal B (YEL or YEL/BLK) to terminal E (PNK or PNK/BLK).
I didn’t have a spare harness so I used small alligator clips and a DVM. The harness letters didn’t match up to the colors. So I tested both ways. Pink was on C, yellow and light green were on F and G. No resistance on anything at all except terminals A and D. A didn’t have a wire on the harness and D was black. Making me think that the part the the harness plugs into has failed. But with the wiring being different, who knows. Hope this helps you to help me out. Thanks
I ran the codes first and they were all the shift solenoid codes and the TCC code. Which is why I started looking from the ignition switch, the fuse, and wiring.
I ran the codes first and they were all the shift solenoid codes and the TCC code. Which is why I started looking from the ignition switch, the fuse, and wiring.